Celestial Inspired Designs: Jewellery’s Ongoing Trend

January 15, 2020

By Jodie Smith

10 min read

Artists from different media turn to celestial bodies for inspiration time and time again, and jewellers are no exception. Some of the biggest names in fine jewellery, as well as some niche designers, dedicate their whole collections to planetary bodies and this article will give you an overview of the most prominent ones.

href=”https://www.katerinaperez.com/articles/Victoire-de-Castellane-20-years-Dior-Joaillerie” rel=”noopener noreferrer” target=”_blank”>Dior

Dior consistently turns to the natural world for inspiration, as proved in most recent ‘Rose Céleste’ collection courtesy of the luxury maison. For the latest addition to the Dior Joaillerie canon, Victoire de Castellane drew inspiration from Christian Dior’s passion for the divine arts and his interest in astrology. The couturier noted in his memoirs that he followed the guidance of a clairvoyant, and that doing so gave him “the strength to act”.  Dior Joaillerie’s Artistic Director reimagined both the Moon and the Sun in ‘Rose Céleste’ collection consisting of rings, bracelets and delicate medallion pendants. Two motifs embellish the jewels: either a mother of pearl Moon with three white gold stars set in onyx or a textured yellow gold sun on a mother of pearl background. Available in yellow gold, these modern talismans refer to the heritage of the maison.

Dior ‘Rose Céleste’ collection pendant, watch and bangle with onyx, all with diamonds and mother of pearl in yellow gold

Dior ‘Rose Céleste’ collection ring with mother of pearl and onyx in yellow gold

Gouache Dior ‘Rose Céleste’ collection

Dior ‘Rose Céleste’ collection ring with mother of pearl and onyx in yellow gold

Dior ‘Rose Céleste’ collection bangle with mother of pearl, diamond and onyx in yellow gold

Dior ‘Rose Céleste’ collection watch with diamonds and mother of pearl in yellow and white gold

href=”https://www.katerinaperez.com/articles/le-paris-russe-de-chanel” rel=”noopener noreferrer” target=”_blank”>Chanel

Shooting stars and constellations have illuminated Chanel’s jewellery since the first collection in 1932. These motifs were beautifully reimagined in the contemporary ‘Cométe’ collection that features necklaces, rings, earrings and pendants with colourless diamonds and pearls set in white and yellow gold. Gabrielle Chanel stated that the five-point star “best highlights the sparkle of diamonds.” Dynamic diamond-embellished stars with sweeping trails mimic the comets which the collection is named after.

Chanel ‘Cométe’ collection rings and pendant with diamonds in white gold

Chanel ‘Cométe’ collection ring with diamonds and pearls in white gold

Chanel ‘Cométe’ collection brooch with diamonds and pearls in white gold

Chanel ‘Cométe’ collection ring with diamonds in white gold

Chanel ‘Cométe’ collection earrings with diamonds in white gold

Chanel ‘Cométe’ collection necklace with diamonds in white and yellow gold

Chanel ‘Cométe’ collection ring with diamonds in white gold

Chanel ‘Cométe’ collection ring with diamonds in white and yellow gold

Chanel ‘Cométe’ collection ring with diamonds in white gold

href=”https://www.katerinaperez.com/articles/best-of-Instagram-2019-part-1″ rel=”noopener noreferrer” target=”_blank”>Tatiana Verstraeten

Tatiana Verstraeten is a protege of Chanel’s Studio Creation atelier, where she designed jewellery and headwear for Karl Lagerfeld in 2011. Moving on to fine jewellery, she teamed up with a diamond supplier to create striking designs under her own name. The most notable Tatiana’s pieces which caused a stir in 2019 were the diamond fringe earrings. Their unique feature was a layer of shoulder-length chains climbing up to various motifs on the ear-love, one of the most popular being the constellations of stars.

Tatiana Verstraeten 'Shooting Stars' earrings with diamonds in white gold

href=”https://www.katerinaperez.com/articles/SICIS-universe” rel=”noopener noreferrer” target=”_blank”>SICIS

Italian company SICIS first started producing jewellery in 2013, and initially specialised in micro-mosaic haute joaillerie predominantly inspired by nature. So it comes as no surprise that the stars were also depicted in their jewelled form as a luscious necklace, drop earrings and a statement ring in the Etoile set. The brand’s Jewellery Director Gioia Placuzzi further incorporated celestial designs into the everyday ‘Universe’ line – launched in 2019. The rings, bracelets and earrings appeared deceptively simplistic at first glance, however, the craftsmanship behind the micromosaic technique shines through the star shaped forms, with white and blue mosaic, diamonds and sapphires set in white gold.

SICIS ‘Universe’ collection earrings with mosaic, sapphires and diamonds in white gold

SICIS ‘Universe’ collection ring with mosaic and diamonds in white gold

SICIS ‘Universe’ collection with mosaic, sapphires and diamonds in white gold

SICIS ‘Etoile Dark’ earrings with mosaic and black and colourless diamonds in white gold

SICIS ‘Etoile Dark’ necklace with mosaic and black and colourless diamonds in white gold

SICIS ‘Etoile Dark’ ring with mosaic and black and colourless diamonds in white gold

href=”https://www.katerinaperez.com/articles/azza-fahmy-mamluk” rel=”noopener noreferrer” target=”_blank”>Azza Fahmy

One of the leading jewellers of Egypt – Azza Fahmy – has incorporated stars and moons in the DNA of her brand’s aesthetics. Celestial bodies span across most designer’s collections from ‘The Gypsy’ to the latest ‘Mamluk’ line, which references Cairo’s architectural history. In ‘Mamluk,’ Azza Fahmy depicted Arabesque motifs like the eight-pointed star as a prominent geometric design. Made in 18 karat gold and sterling silver with pearls and champagne diamonds, the ‘Jashankir’ earrings are inspired by a pattern of these stars found in the Mausoleum of Sultan Baybars al-Jashankir, built in 1310.

Azza Fahmy 'Mamluk' collection 'Qalawun Muzhir' cuff with sapphires and topaz and ‘Qalawun’ earrings with diamonds and pearls, both in yellow gold and sterling silver

Azza Fahmy 'Mamluk' collection ‘Jashankir’ earrings with rubies and amethysts in yellow gold and silver

Azza Fahmy 'Mamluk' collection earrings with rubies and diamonds in yellow gold

Azza Fahmy 'Mamluk' collection earrings with emeralds and diamonds in yellow gold and silver

href=”https://www.katerinaperez.com/articles/meet-anthony-lent-the-master-of-sculptural-and-whimsical-jewellery” rel=”noopener noreferrer” target=”_blank”>Anthony Lent

The US-based jeweller Anthony Lent also made celestial jewellery his signature but in a completely different way: his stars, sun and moon designs always feature a sculptured dreamy face. Referring to his work’s folkloric qualities, Anthony describes his most popular design as the “moon of the collective unconscious. This is a precious, wearable, jewelled version of the moon illustrated in Victorian children’s books: reminiscent of the work of Maxfield Parrish, N. C. Wyeth, and the early animation of Winsor McCay, the Crescent Moonface, Sunface and Starface”. These remarkable creations became a part of the ‘Celestial’ collection, which is the most extensive line he has produced thus far. 

Anthony Lent ‘Celestial’ collection

Anthony Lent ‘Celestial’ collection ring with diamonds in yellow gold and oxidised silver

Anthony Lent ‘Celestial’ collection pendant with diamonds in yellow gold and oxidised silver

Anthony Lent ‘Celestial’ collection earrings with diamonds and pink sapphires in yellow gold

Anthony Lent ‘Celestial’ collection earrings with diamonds in yellow gold

Anthony Lent ‘Celestial’ collection earrings with diamonds in yellow gold

href=”https://www.colettejewelry.com/” rel=”noopener noreferrer” target=”_blank”>Colette Jewellery

Other designers who have sought inspiration from the skies include Colette Steckel of Colette Jewellery, who was enchanted by the starry sky from an early age. Spending her childhood in Normandy, her family “would spend a lot of time watching the stars with telescopes, seeing shooting stars all of the time – there was a time when I was sneaking outside just to see the stars” she says. Her substantial ‘Galaxia’ collection reflects her appreciation of heavenly bodies and includes multiple designs showcasing antique-like crescent moons and art deco stars, primarily in diamonds set in white or rose gold.  

Colette Jewellery ‘Galaxia’ collection necklace with pearls, diamonds and emeralds in white gold

Colette Jewellery ‘Galaxia’ collection earrings with sapphires, tsavorites and rubies in yellow gold

Colette Jewellery ‘Galaxia’ collection cuff with diamonds in white gold

Colette Jewellery ‘Galaxia’ collection necklace with diamonds and pearls in yellow gold

href=”https://www.katerinaperez.com/articles/jewels-exhibition-hermitage” rel=”noopener noreferrer” target=”_blank”>Bibi van der Velden

Bibi van der Velden used the same source of inspiration as a basis of her ‘Galaxy’ collection creating 3 dimensional designs that she refers to as “miniature sculptures.” Spinning rings, chandelier earrings and pendants were crafted using such unconventional materials as mammoth, and others were embellished with more traditional Tahitian pearls, opals, sapphires and diamonds.

Bibi van der Velden 'Galaxy' collection pendant with mammoth tusk, diamonds, sapphires, and opals in yellow gold

Bibi van der Velden 'Galaxy' collection ring with boulder opal, Tahitian pearls, tsavorites, sapphires and diamonds in yellow gold

Bibi van der Velden 'Galaxy' collection earrings with mammoth tusk, diamonds, blue sapphires, and opals in yellow gold

Bibi van der Velden 'Galaxy' collection ear climber with tsavorites and sapphires in yellow gold

Stars and planets capture the eye’s attention, as well as the hearts of jewellery admirers. Glittering in diamonds, celestial bodies are a motif which is timeless, chic and which excites childlike wonder in all of us.

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