Chanel: What’s New in 2020

May 7, 2020

By Katerina Perez

5 min read

Each spring, Chanel updates their watch collections with a number of new pieces. These vary in style; from everyday models to unique high art watches. 2020 was no exception to this annual tradition, and I would like to tell you about the most interesting of these innovations.

Over the years, the J-12 has become one of the French house’s most iconic models, and has already appeared in a multitude of interpretations over the years. In 2020, Chanel is celebrating the 20th anniversary of this model, which was timed to coincide with the release of several other watches.

Twenty years later, the J-12 still embodies the same creative and rebellious spirit of the Chanel house, a company spokesperson commented.

The inner mechanism of 'J12 X- RAY - CALIBER 3.1'

The inner mechanism of 'J12 X- RAY - CALIBER 3.1'

J12 PARADOXE

When it was initially launched in 2000, the J-12 series came only in a black design. Three years after the original launch, a white version was released. One no longer has to choose between merely two options – the new model combines a black case, which appears as if cut on one side to show the colourless diamonds that adorn the piece. The paradoxical design personifies both day and night. The black part is made of  ceramic – an extremely capricious and labour-intensive material – while the white part is made of 87 baguette cut diamonds (I wrote a separate article about this type of cut recently) as well as 18 karat white gold. The model was released in a limited edition of 20 pieces, which once again serves to emphasise the extent of its individuality.

Chanel Watches 'J12 Paradoxe' with diamonds in black ceramic and white gold

Chanel Watches 'J12 Paradoxe' with diamonds in black ceramic and white gold

 Chanel Watches 'J12 Paradoxe' with diamonds in black ceramic and white gold

Chanel Watches 'J12 Paradoxe' with diamonds in black ceramic and white gold

 Chanel Watches 'J12 Paradoxe' with diamonds in black ceramic and white gold

Chanel Watches 'J12 Paradoxe' with diamonds in black ceramic and white gold

J12 X-RAY

This watch is a continuation of the house’s experimentation with colour and is dedicated to the 20th anniversary of the collection. When I say experimentation with colour, I mean to say the watch lacks colour entirely! How, I hear you ask, can this be possible? The transparent case demonstrates the beauty of the Caliber 3.1 – made of steel or 18 karat white gold as well as stunning sapphire crystal! The dial is also cast from sapphire and equipped with diamond indicators in a baguette cut. 46 of these diamonds frame the front of the piece. The watch strap is also unique – for the first time in history, it is composed of links carved from sapphires. The unique world premiere of this watch was held in honour of the collection’s anniversary – the release included 12 gold and 2020 steel pieces.

Chanel Watches 'J12 X-RAY' with 7.97ct of diamonds in sapphire glass and white gold

Chanel Watches 'J12 X-RAY' with 7.97ct of diamonds in sapphire glass and white gold

 Chanel Watches 'J12 X-RAY' with 7.97ct of diamonds in sapphire glass and white gold

Chanel Watches 'J12 X-RAY' with 7.97ct of diamonds in sapphire glass and white gold

 Chanel Watches 'J12 X-RAY' with 7.97ct of diamonds in sapphire glass and white gold

Chanel Watches 'J12 X-RAY' with 7.97ct of diamonds in sapphire glass and white gold

SAUTOIR COCO

Perhaps the most feminine piece of those released, this watch comes with a touch of humour and irony. Sautoir Coco takes the form of a sautoir, decorated with a caricature of Mademoiselle Chanel herself. Only five copies of this luxurious and playful watch have been made. It is composed of 18 karat white gold with alternating elements of black onyx with colourless diamonds. The figure of Mademoiselle is constructed from four Akoya pearls, colourless diamonds and black enamel. The dial of the watch hides beneath her hat! Inspired by the same imagery, ten table clocks composed of 18 karat white gold, black obsidian and colourless diamonds have also been released. In these pieces, the role of the hour and minute hands are played by Mademoiselle’s own hands.

Chanel Watches 'SAUTOIR COCO' secret pendant with 16.96ct of diamonds, Akoya pearls and onyx in enamel and white gold

Chanel Watches 'SAUTOIR COCO' secret pendant with 16.96ct of diamonds, Akoya pearls and onyx in enamel and white gold

 Chanel Watches 'SAUTOIR COCO' secret pendant with 16.96ct of diamonds, Akoya pearls and onyx in enamel and white gold

Chanel Watches 'SAUTOIR COCO' secret pendant with 16.96ct of diamonds, Akoya pearls and onyx in enamel and white gold

 Chanel Watches 'COCO CLOCK' with 16.51ct of diamonds and pearls in obsidian and white gold

Chanel Watches 'COCO CLOCK' with 16.51ct of diamonds and pearls in obsidian and white gold

 Chanel Watches 'COCO CLOCK' with 16.51ct of diamonds and pearls in obsidian and white gold

Chanel Watches 'COCO CLOCK' with 16.51ct of diamonds and pearls in obsidian and white gold

PREMIERE CAMELIA CUFF

This watch – both in name and in appearance – really does look like a broad, chic bracelet and is a truly outstanding model from the Première permanent series. The miniature case for the dial, as well as the strings and clasp are made from 18 karat yellow gold. Each thread holds a design element, taking the form of a camellia flower (also composed of yellow gold), interspersed with Akoya pearls and colourless diamonds. As in the case of all watches in this series, a rectangular dial made of 18 karat white gold and diamonds depicts the shape of the Place Vendôme in Paris.

Chanel Watches 'PREMIERE CAMELIA CUFF' with diamonds and 106 Akoya pearls in yellow and white gold

Chanel Watches 'PREMIERE CAMELIA CUFF' with diamonds and 106 Akoya pearls in yellow and white gold

MONSIEUR

Finally, the house’s designers have not forgotten about men! Another new watch – released in a limited edition of 20 pieces – stands out for its very unusual appearance. The dial, bezel and even the winding mechanism are decorated exclusively by colourless baguette-cut diamonds – almost 300 of them! The hour and minute hands are non-standardly biased. The watch case as well as the embossed calfskin strap clasp are made from 18 karat white gold.

Chanel Watches 'MONSIEUR' with 11.04ct of diamonds in white gold

Chanel Watches 'MONSIEUR' with 11.04ct of diamonds in white gold

 Chanel Watches 'MONSIEUR' with 11.04ct of diamonds in white gold

Chanel Watches 'MONSIEUR' with 11.04ct of diamonds in white gold

As is evident, Chanel’s watch designers have worked around the clock, if you will, to once again satisfy the brand’s ever-demanding customers. We look forward to seeing yet more new watch releases throughout the year, and my favourite of these – The Mademoiselle Bouton – will definitely be covered on my website!

The Baguette Cut: The Charm of Simple Geometric Shapes

continue reading

Haute Couture 2025: Exploring Harmonious Balance with the Cartier En Équilibre High Jewellery Collection

Each of the En Équilibre hero creations is composed like a character in a story that we can easily follow. Let’s take a closer look… 

by Sarah Jordan

Haute Couture 2025: A Botanical Reawakening with the Chaumet Jewels by Nature Collection

From magnolia blooms to iris petals caught in the breeze, Chaumet’s Jewels by Nature is a high jewellery collection rooted in the way Empress Joséphine romanticised the natural world.

by Claire Roberts

Setting Themselves Apart: 7 Designers Rethinking the Role of the Gemstone Setting

In jewellery making, the setting is often a silent partner—a technical necessity that secures the stones in place while receding into the background. But a new generation of designers is flipping that script, transforming the process of setting gems into an expressive, sculptural and narrative force.

by Claire Roberts

Beauty of Beginnings: Exploring the Potential of Paper with Katerina Perez

If you are optimistic by nature, you may look at a blank sheet of paper and see limitless opportunities for creativity. Recently, my friend and visual artist Ksenia Usacheva approached me about a new ‘blank canvas’ inspired editorial project, incorporating reams of white paper, brushstrokes of colourful paint, and beautiful high jewellery.

by Ksenia Usacheva

Haute Couture 2025: Stepping Inside ‘Caroline’s Universe’ with the Chopard Red Carpet Collection

Let's take a closer look at some of Caroline Scheufele's latest colourful adornments, including our 10 favourite pieces.

by Sarah Jordan

Beauty Shapes Tomorrow: Nouvel Héritage Unveils High Jewels for 10th Anniversary

For French brand Nouvel Héritage, the time has come to unveil its debut suite of five high jewellery creations, each one an ode to its iconic Mood and Latch collections, as well as the soon-to-be-launched Try Me line.

by Sarah Jordan

Incomparable Artistry: The Legendary Story of Beverly Hills Jewellery Designer Martin Katz 

This formidable Californian jeweller has spent decades sourcing the finest coloured gemstones, creating one-of-a-kind jewels, and dressing famous celebrities. Let me tell you more about an incomparable jewellery tour de force…

by Sarah Jordan

Prophecy and Poetry: The Story Behind My Bespoke Pendant by El’eeté Jewellery

Sometimes universal forces align to put the right person in your path at the perfect time. That was absolutely the case when one of my Instagram followers, Elvira Iurova, the Founder of El’eeté Jewellery, contacted me to introduce her unique bespoke jewellery concept.

by Katerina Perez

Haute Couture 2025: The Most Impressive Flower High Jewels that Bloomed in Paris

Floral jewels have long been a hallmark of high jewellery, but at this year’s Haute Couture presentations in Paris, designers approached the motif with renewed focus and technical ambition. Here, we spotlight the standout floral creations from the 2025 shows.

by Joshua Hendren

Haute Couture 2025: Celebrating 20 Years with the Messika Terres d’Instinct High Jewellery Collection 

Let’s take a closer look at the collection, including some of its neckwear highlights, and discover its romantic inspirations…

by Sarah Jordan

Haute Couture 2025: Exploring the Debut High Jewellery Collection of Sahag Arslanian

This July’s Haute Couture Week in Paris was marked with the exciting launch of a new high jewellery brand that bears the name of its founder. Third-generation diamantaire Sahag Arslanian presented his inaugural series of high jewels, drawing inspiration from the power of the sun and the cosmic world.

by Katerina Perez

Haute Couture 2025: Boucheron Explores Shades of Grey with the Impermanence High Jewellery Collection 

With its Carte Blanche High Jewellery collections, Boucheron's Creative Director Claire Choisne has the power to explore whatever fantastical avenue she pleases, which in 2025 centres on flowers and the natural world.

by Sarah Jordan

Latest Stories

Add articles and images to your favourites. Just

Elevated Expression:Examining The Jade Dynasty Collection by Austy Lee

Let's hear what he has to say on China's most emblematic mineral…

by Sarah Jordan

Jewels Katerina Perez Loves

Continue Reading

In Conversation:Discussing Paraiba - The Legacy of a Color

with Vogue Singapore

by Katerina Perez

Jewellery Insights straight to your inbox

Style Guide

By using this website, you agree to the storing of cookies on your device to enhance site navigation, analyze site usage, and assist in our marketing efforts. View our Privacy Policy for more information.