Luxury Redefined: 15 Years in Jewellery – What’s Changed?

September 23, 2025

By Katerina Perez

9 min read

A decade of working in jewellery is enough time to see changes happening, but there have been even more since I started selling pieces behind the counter 17 years ago. During a recent conversation with The Masterpieces magazine, I found myself reflecting on just how much the jewellery world has evolved over this time. From past trends to future visions, here’s how I see its ever-changing landscape and where it might be headed.

No one would argue that over the past 15 years, the jewellery industry hasn’t undergone significant transformations, driven largely by technology, sustainability concerns and shifting consumer behaviour. All reflect a bigger cultural shift, the acceleration of our pace of life, and the need to slow time to avoid burnout. Also, unlike a decade or two ago, the world of jewellery is becoming more popular and therefore open to all who wish to explore it, creating the need for more sustainable and responsible practices. So, let’s talk about the most important changes that I feel have reshaped our beloved sector.

<p>SICIS Creative Director Gioia Placuzzi with Katerina Perez at the brand’s Parisian boutique at 19 Rue Marbeuf</p>

SICIS Creative Director Gioia Placuzzi with Katerina Perez at the brand’s Parisian boutique at 19 Rue Marbeuf

The Empowered Jewellery Buyer

While the last few years have felt steady in some respects, looking back over the last decade reveals a clear evolution. One of the most significant shifts is the rise in online jewellery purchasing. When I worked in retail, the idea of spending several thousands (let alone hundreds of thousands) online without even trying a piece on was unthinkable. Now, it’s a part of everyday reality. People shop jewellery on e-commerce websites, via multi-brand e-boutiques, Instagram and even WhatsApp, some companies even offer virtual jewellery try-ones using special software.

Katerina Perez during her time working at the Chaumet boutique on London’s Bond Street in 2014

The ‘Treat Yourself’ Mentality

My dear female readers, if you rewind to, say, 2010, and tell your girlfriends that you bought yourself a jewel just because you liked it, they might think you’re a rebel. Now, self-purchasing is the norm in jewellery, as it has experienced a powerful wave in the last 5-7 years. Women are increasingly treating themselves to jewellery to celebrate milestones, express their personal style, or simply indulge. Once, jewellery was a gift given by someone else; today, it’s just as often a gift we give to ourselves. And with jewellery becoming more fashion-forward, fine jewellery is now part of everyday style rather than something saved for special occasions.

<p>Katerina Perez spotlights a necklace with ruby beads from Odisha by Jaipur-based gem-cutting company Minehaus</p>

Katerina Perez spotlights a necklace with ruby beads from Odisha by Jaipur-based gem-cutting company Minehaus

<p>Katerina Perez visits Jaipur-based gem-cutting company Minehaus to explore its selection of Odisha ruby jewellery</p>

Katerina Perez visits Jaipur-based gem-cutting company Minehaus to explore its selection of Odisha ruby jewellery

<p>Katerina Perez wears a necklace composed of ruby beads from the Indian state of Odisha by Jaipur-based gem-cutting company Minehaus</p>

Katerina Perez wears a necklace composed of ruby beads from the Indian state of Odisha by Jaipur-based gem-cutting company Minehaus

<p>Katerina Perez considers a layout of cabochon rubies perfectly matched by colour and carat weight, presented during a visit to Jaipur-based gem-cutting company Minehaus</p>

Katerina Perez considers a layout of cabochon rubies perfectly matched by colour and carat weight, presented during a visit to Jaipur-based gem-cutting company Minehaus

<p>Faceted rubies from the Indian state of Odisha, presented by Jaipur-based gem-cutting company Minehaus</p>

Faceted rubies from the Indian state of Odisha, presented by Jaipur-based gem-cutting company Minehaus

Popularity of Fashion - Fine Jewellery

While working in high jewellery houses, I used to sell stunning designs, but I couldn’t call them fashion statements or a means of self-expression. One would not wear them to complete a look the same way as they would with precious accessories, like a designer handbag, for example, or sunglasses. That’s when I started exploring the jewellery that existed beyond Bond Street or Place Vendome and noticed a new trend – the rise of so-called ‘fashion-fine jewellery’. This segment features pieces that are often simpler in design, smaller in volume, often fashion-forward and easier to wear. The gemstones that embellished them are less pompous and belong to a so-called ‘commercial quality’ category. Usually, fashion-fine jewellery emerges from a design idea, rather than a valuable gem, and it’s there to become a design language.

Katerina Perez photographed holding a tray of exceptional diamond and coloured gemstone rings by Boghossian in 2016

Luxury Isn’t a Price Tag — It’s a Creative Statement

To me, true luxury lies in breaking boundaries and expressing oneself through precious materials. It's not just about rare stones, impressive gold weight and hefty price tags. It's about the detail, when the back of a jewel is as carefully finished as the front, when the materials push beyond convention, and when the designer's creativity is fully unleashed. Starting solely from a creative idea, not the jewel's future commercial value and manufacturing costs, is a true luxury! Showcasing one's creativity is a true luxury! It lies in the artistry, the thought and the intention behind each creation. Whether it's a gleaming diamond or an unexpected material like titanium, wood or even ceramic, what elevates a piece is the emotion it carries and the craftsmanship it embodies. It is the freedom to break from convention and to sculpt something entirely personal, bold, and new that defines the modern spirit of luxury.

<p>A Hemmerle Rose brooch from the Infused Jewels collection crafted in aluminium, diamonds and white gold</p>

A Hemmerle Rose brooch from the Infused Jewels collection crafted in aluminium, diamonds and white gold

<p>Hemmerle Lavender earrings from the Infused Jewels collection crafted with tanzanites in aluminium, bronze and white gold</p>

Hemmerle Lavender earrings from the Infused Jewels collection crafted with tanzanites in aluminium, bronze and white gold

<p>Hemmerle Cinnamon brooch from the Infused Jewels collection crafted with diamonds and natural cinnamon sticks in bronze and white gold</p>

Hemmerle Cinnamon brooch from the Infused Jewels collection crafted with diamonds and natural cinnamon sticks in bronze and white gold

<p>Hemmerle Cornflower earrings from the Infused Jewels collection set with tanzanites and diamonds in aluminium, silver and white gold</p>

Hemmerle Cornflower earrings from the Infused Jewels collection set with tanzanites and diamonds in aluminium, silver and white gold

<p>Various iterations of the iconic Hemmerle Harmony bangle throughout the decades</p>

Various iterations of the iconic Hemmerle Harmony bangle throughout the decades

The Rise of Colour

One of the most exciting shifts in jewellery today is the move towards a broader variety of coloured gemstones. Spinels, imperial topaz, mandarin garnet, rubellites, Paraibas, padparadscha sapphires and several others are becoming more popular, reflecting a growing confidence in how people wear their jewellery. The world around us is full of colour, and gemstones help designers to ‘paint’ their jewellery, demonstrate their daring creativity and offer more variety to jewellery lovers. Stones that were once less well known are now appreciated for their unique beauty and character.

Katerina Perez wears an oval-shaped Imperial topaz and diamond ring from the Chaumet Jewels by Nature High Jewellery collection

A cocktail ring by Veschetti with a step-cut emerald and diamonds in 18k yellow gold

Tiffany & Co. High Jewellery ring from the Blue Book collection with a spessartine of over 10 carats and unenhanced pink, purple and yellow sapphires set in 18k yellow gold

A right-hand ring by Martin Katz with a 5-carat vivid red spinel and diamonds

Let’s Play!

Jewellery is also becoming more interactive and versatile. Reversible pendants, earrings that transform into brooches, and necklaces that can be worn in different ways add an element of surprise and fun. These pieces are not just decorative; they’re designed to engage and adapt to the wearer. It’s a fresh approach that puts creativity and individuality at the heart of modern jewellery.

<p>Elizaveta Borzunova, the Founder of Liza Borzaya, wearing the Swallow palm bracelet with enamel and diamonds</p>

Elizaveta Borzunova, the Founder of Liza Borzaya, wearing the Swallow palm bracelet with enamel and diamonds

<p>The Swallow palm bracelet by Liza Borzaya decorated with hot enamel and diamonds</p>

The Swallow palm bracelet by Liza Borzaya decorated with hot enamel and diamonds

<p>A signature palm bracelet and attached ring with coloured gemstones and diamonds by Liza Borzaya</p>

A signature palm bracelet and attached ring with coloured gemstones and diamonds by Liza Borzaya

<p>Liza Borzaya Rebel earrings with diamonds, rubies and enamel details</p>

Liza Borzaya Rebel earrings with diamonds, rubies and enamel details

<p>Liza Borzaya pendant with diamonds, rubies and enamel details from the &#8216;Get Inked!&#8217; collection</p>

Liza Borzaya pendant with diamonds, rubies and enamel details from the ‘Get Inked!’ collection

Social Media Savvy

In 2012, someone asked me if I used Instagram. I had no idea what it was, and my curiosity made me try it. I have had my @katerina_perez account for 13 years now. In the beginning, few jewellers were using social media. But in today’s fast-moving digital world, jewellers ensure they have an online presence and a social media presence. They strive to be different and stand out, which could be anything from a signature design style, a special jewellery-making technique, an engaging advertising campaign, or a unique way of using materials. Once a brand understands its identity, the next step is to communicate it clearly. That means using strong visuals, telling engaging stories, and building a consistent presence that helps people understand what makes the brand special.

Exploring the power of Instagram to showcase fine and high jewellery to audiences worldwide with Katerina Perez

The Ultimate Experience

It’s not just about the jewellery itself. Jewellers focus much more these days on client relations and the selling process - from the first step through the door until the clients finally opens the box on their purchase at home. How a piece is packaged, how it’s presented, and even the moment it’s unboxed all play a big part. It is not unusual that the top clients get whisked off to a remote destination for the launch of a new high jewellery collection, as this also adds to the experience and helps a brand to stir up more emotions in a client when they see new creations. Today’s customers want more than just a product—they want a memorable moment that feels personal and thoughtful. Often, it’s the little (or the grand!) details that people remember most.

Katerina Perez wears a fantastical and entirely AI-created necklace in this image created by Anastasia Rogozhina

AI artist Anastasia Rogozhina focused on super-sized floral forms when creating her latest series of digital artworks, titled ‘Diamond Garden’

An image from the ‘Diamond Garden’ series by AI artist and creator Anastasia Rogozhina

Katerina Perez is shown interacting with a super-sized sculpture of diamonds and precious gemstones, imagined by AI artist Anastasia Rogozhina

Katerina Perez holds an impossible structure set with diamonds and coloured gemstones in this AI-created image by Anastasia Rogozhina

Sustainability Not Just a Buzzword

Sustainability and fair practices took time to reach the jewellery world, but now they are here to stay. Fifteen years ago, the industry was so closed off and secretive that it was much harder to define and control what needed to be changed in mining and manufacturing.  Nowadays, brands adopt sustainability practices and speak more openly and authentically about it—not as a fleeting trend, but as a meaningful part of who they are. They show their commitment through the stories they tell, the materials they use, and the choices they make every day. They are transparent about sourcing, production process, and the values they stand for. These are the details that help build lasting trust—and customers are far more likely to connect with a brand that’s genuinely trying to do good. The demand for sustainable jewellery has not skyrocketed, but I can see the joint efforts in the industry to create more awareness among professionals and consumers. Add these words to your vocabulary: blockchain, sustainability and fair mining.

Katerina Perez visits a sapphire mine in Ilakaka, Madagascar accompanied by Morebelli

Straight Out of the Lab

Over the last five years, the industry has been shaken by the rise of laboratory-grown diamonds, followed by a smaller number of synthetic coloured stones to meet the demand for more affordable jewellery. There's been plenty of debate, some arguing back and forth, questionable advertising campaigns, and some equally mystifying responses from natural diamond experts! However, what the rise of laboratory-grown diamonds has achieved is a fresh wave of introspection; manufacturers, designers, brands and shoppers are looking at diamonds with fresh eyes and examining their own principles as a result. Jewellery lovers now have more choice at a wider range of price points, allowing them to indulge in the category we all love on their terms. As someone whose mission has always been to make more people fall in love with jewellery, I can see the benefits of laboratory-grown diamonds. However, I will continue to prioritise natural diamonds and coloured gemstones as they are more closely aligned with my passions.

Blush Bloom earrings by Anabela Chan crafted in recycled aluminium, 18k yellow gold vermeil, and 14k gold set with laboratory-grown and laboratory-created coloured stones including orange and blush pink sapphires, with simulated white diamonds

Baby Blue Parrot Bloom pin by Anabela Chan crafted in recycled aluminium and rhodium vermeil set with laboratory-grown diamonds and laboratory-created Paraiba tourmalines

Jewellery has always been about more than adornment. It's a reflection of who we are and what we value. Today, it's more expressive, creative and inclusive than ever. And, as someone lucky enough to witness and share in its evolution, I'm excited for what the next decade will bring. If you have thoughts on the most significant changes in the jewellery world, I would love to hear your thoughts. Click on the speech bubble icon at the bottom right of this page to get in touch.

Precious Preservation: Celebrating 15 Years of the Glyptic Arts at Cartier

continue reading

By using this website, you agree to the storing of cookies on your device to enhance site navigation, analyze site usage, and assist in our marketing efforts. View our Privacy Policy for more information.