Sunita Nahata: Emeralds and aquamarines take centre stage in new collections

Hong Kong based jewellery designer Sunita Nahata debuted her permanent and one-of-a-kind fine jewellery collections at the Couture Show this year. Her work is based on celebrating the beauty of coloured gemstones, so she allows these gems to inspire her and lead the way to design. This becomes especially apparent in the latest ‘Blue Planet’ and ‘Regalia’ collections that feature necklaces, earrings, bracelets and rings with stunning aquamarines and emeralds.

Those who regularly read my articles are already familiar with the ‘Regalia’ collection – art deco style jewellery with spectacular Colombian and Zambian emeralds draped in diamonds. It was initially released at the end of 2018, and for this year Sunita has added new creations that follow the same refined aesthetics – yet differing from the previous designs.

“This ring, for example, showcases an 8 carat Colombian emerald, which is framed with further gemstones in a very modern way. Initially, when we started using emeralds, we were mostly considering what the customer really wanted and so the majority of jewellery was rather classical, for instance, an emerald with two diamonds on the side,” Sunita tells me at Couture Las Vegas. Indeed, many clients who are searching for emerald jewellery think predominantly about its investment value rather than unique look. It would be fair to say that they simply purchase gemstones, and the beauty of the actual setting becomes secondary. 

I want my customers to crave for my exclusive designer pieces. Hence, each piece from the ‘Regalia’ collection carries a distinctive look. – Sunita Nahata

Alongside the continuation of this high jewellery collection, a completely new series of jewellery titled ‘Blue Planet’ was launched in time for the Couture show. It featured the finest aquamarines from the Santa Maria mine to represent the oceans, while the accenting Paraiba tourmalines, Alexandrites and diamonds support the central stone – an interpretation of the corals supporting the marine ecosystem. 

Right now aquamarine is a gemstone that everyone is in love with, ever since Meghan Markle wore an aquamarine ring on her wedding day. I have used the highest quality minerals that boast spectacular colour and clarity. The other rare gems – Paraiba tourmalines or Alexandrites – add exoticism to my designs, while the pearl adds a dainty and feminine feel. – Sunita Nahata

Pearls were indeed an integral part of the design of the ‘Blue Planet’ earrings, pendant and the hero necklace. They reflected one of the biggest trends of this year’s Las Vegas fair: jewellery embellished with pearls adding decoration to the main gemstone or design. These treasures from the bottom of the sea acted as a symbol of the aquatic life which surrounds the underwater flora in Sunita’s collection.

The hero piece of the collection is a necklace with large open white gold hoops, delicately pavéd with minute diamonds. Dappled throughout the chain and dripping from these links are appendages with intermittent oval cut Santa Maria aquamarines, accented by tiny Paraiba tourmalines, diamonds and Alexandrites.

The ‘Regalia’ and ‘Blue Planet’ novelties are evidence that Sunita Nahata’s understanding of how her audience selects their fine jewellery is highly attuned, and her priority is making certain that her customers are able to wear exceptional stones within designs that they love.