Watch Awards: The Grand Prix D’Horlogerie De Genève 2019

November 20, 2019

By Jodie Smith

5 min read

On Thursday November 7th in Geneva, the 19th Grand Prixd’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) prize-giving ceremony took place. Honouring the very best accomplishments in watchmaking, the event was a platform for the most beautiful, complex and intriguing watch designs in the world.

Hosted by actor Edouard Baer, the GPHG’s independent jury awarded 19 prizes to names such as Bvlgari, Chanel, Hermès, Audemars Piguet and Vacheron Constantin for their expertise and creativity.

Guillaume Barazzone (Geneva Administrativ Councillor), Raymond Loretan (President of the GPHG Foundation) and Pierre Maudet (Geneva State Councillor) at the Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève

Guillaume Barazzone (Geneva Administrativ Councillor), Raymond Loretan (President of the GPHG Foundation) and Pierre Maudet (Geneva State Councillor) at the Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève

In this article, I have selected some of the most incredible nominees of the Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, as well as the winners among women’s watch designs. One of them – Bvlgari’s ‘Serpenti Misteriosi Romani’ – took home the award for Best Jewellery Watch. It holds the astonishing title of being the most expensive high-end timepiece ever made. Costing almost €2,000,000, the price is largely owing to the 10 carat Sri Lankan sapphire, as well as a total of more than 60 carats of diamonds and 35 carats of sapphires which form the snake’s body and scales.

Bvlgari ‘Serpenti Misteriosi Romani’ watch with 10ct Sri Lankan sapphire, 60ct of diamonds and 35ct of sapphires in white gold

Bvlgari ‘Serpenti Misteriosi Romani’ watch with 10ct Sri Lankan sapphire, 60ct of diamonds and 35ct of sapphires in white gold

 The making of Bvlgari ‘Serpenti Misteriosi Romani’ watch with 10ct Sri Lankan sapphire, 60ct of diamonds and 35ct of sapphires in white gold

The making of Bvlgari ‘Serpenti Misteriosi Romani’ watch with 10ct Sri Lankan sapphire, 60ct of diamonds and 35ct of sapphires in white gold

 The making of Bvlgari ‘Serpenti Misteriosi Romani’ watch with 10ct Sri Lankan sapphire, 60ct of diamonds and 35ct of sapphires in white gold

The making of Bvlgari ‘Serpenti Misteriosi Romani’ watch with 10ct Sri Lankan sapphire, 60ct of diamonds and 35ct of sapphires in white gold

One of my personal favourite nominees in the Jewellery Watch category was Chopard’s ‘Waterlily’ watch from the 2019 ‘Red Carpet Collection.’ Crafted in ethical white gold, set with 43 carats of diamonds in the form of petals: heart, half moon and trapeze cuts mirrored nature’s floral forms. It required 36 weeks for Chopard’s artisans to complete the fully embellished dial, case and bracelet of this timepiece.

Chopard ‘Waterlily’ watch with 43ct diamonds in white gold

Chopard ‘Waterlily’ watch with 43ct diamonds in white gold

Van Cleef & Arpels were also represented at the awards, with a host of jewelled watches contending for different awards. In the ‘Secret Watch Jardin de Glace’, the maison has employed a Sri Lankan oval cut sapphire of 10.30 carats, as well as round, marquise cut and pear shaped sapphires, turquoise, round and baguette cut diamonds in white gold. An altogether more cosmic design embellished the ‘Lady Arpels™ Zodiac Lumineux Aries watch’: a glittering blue enamel dial reflects the starry night sky. The white gold bezel was adorned with diamonds, translucent blue enamel beads, a sculpted yellow gold Aries with a blue sapphire eye, yellow sapphires, and spessartite garnets – so many details to explore in one timepiece!

Van Cleef & Arpels ‘Secret Watch Jardin de Glace’ secret watch with 10.30ct Sri Lankan oval cut sapphire, round, marquise and pear shaped sapphires, turquoise, and diamonds in white gold

Van Cleef & Arpels ‘Secret Watch Jardin de Glace’ secret watch with 10.30ct Sri Lankan oval cut sapphire, round, marquise and pear shaped sapphires, turquoise, and diamonds in white gold

 Van Cleef & Arpels  ‘Lady Arpels™ Zodiac Lumineux Aries' watch with diamonds, blue and yellow sapphires and spessartite garnets in enamel, white and yellow gold

Van Cleef & Arpels ‘Lady Arpels™ Zodiac Lumineux Aries' watch with diamonds, blue and yellow sapphires and spessartite garnets in enamel, white and yellow gold

 Jacob & Co. ‘Astronomia Fleurs de Jardin’ watch with topaz, kite shaped pink, blue and orange sapphires, tsavorites, amethysts, and rubies on a mother of pearl dial in rose gold

Jacob & Co. ‘Astronomia Fleurs de Jardin’ watch with topaz, kite shaped pink, blue and orange sapphires, tsavorites, amethysts, and rubies on a mother of pearl dial in rose gold

Moving to the Ladies Complication category, the most visually arresting design certainly belonged to the ‘Astronomia Fleurs de Jardin’ watch by Jacob & Co. Never one to shy away from grandiose, multi-dimensional complications, this piece was inspired by solar orbits. Under the three arms, gemstone flowers rotate clockwise around the dial – meaning that whenever you look at the watch face, the appearance is unique to that moment. 

Chaumet 'Les Ciels de Chaumet' collection 'Soliel de Minuit' watch with Grand Feu enamel by Anita Porchet, diamonds, sapphires, tourmalines, spinels and garnets in white gold

Chaumet 'Les Ciels de Chaumet' collection 'Soliel de Minuit' watch with Grand Feu enamel by Anita Porchet, diamonds, sapphires, tourmalines, spinels and garnets in white gold

Another spectacular model that was also considered for an award, the ‘Soleil de Minuit’ flying tourbillon, comes courtesy of Chaumet. Resplendent in a multicoloured grand feu enamelled dial with a guilloché finish, it was created in collaboration with the artist Anita Porchet. Atop the delicate enamel artwork, the watch was embellished with topazes, garnets, sapphires, rubies and tourmalines that punctuate diamond spirals. The largest of them was a pear shaped garnet mounted in en tremblant setting that created extra movement inside the exquisite timepiece.

‘Aiguille d’Or’ Grand Prix winner: Audemars Piguet ‘Royal Oak’ self-winding perpetual calendar watch

‘Aiguille d’Or’ Grand Prix winner: Audemars Piguet ‘Royal Oak’ self-winding perpetual calendar watch

Ultra-Thin Ladies' Watch winner: Chanel 'J12 Calibre 12.1'

Ultra-Thin Ladies' Watch winner: Chanel 'J12 Calibre 12.1'

Ladies' Complication Watch winner: MB&F

Ladies' Complication Watch winner: MB&F

Men's Complication Watch winner: Audemars Piguet 'Code 11.59 Minute Repeater Supersonnerie'

Men's Complication Watch winner: Audemars Piguet 'Code 11.59 Minute Repeater Supersonnerie'

Iconic Watch winner: Audemars Piguet 'Royal Oak "Jumbo" Extra-thin'

Iconic Watch winner: Audemars Piguet 'Royal Oak "Jumbo" Extra-thin'

Innovation winner: Vacheron Constantin 'Traditionnelle Twin Beat' perpetual calendar model

Innovation winner: Vacheron Constantin 'Traditionnelle Twin Beat' perpetual calendar model

The 19th Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève awards were not limited to women’s jewellery watches only: the ‘Aiguille d’Or’ Grand Prix went to Audemars Piguet for their Royal Oak Self-winding Perpetual Calendar; the winner of the Ultra-Thin Ladies’ Watch Prize was Chanel, for their J12 Calibre 12.1. The Ladies’ Complication Watch Prize was awarded to MB&F, while the Men’s Complication Watch Prize went to Audemars Piguet, Code 11.59 Minute Repeater Supersonnerie. Audemars Piguet also won the Iconic Watch Prize with the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-thin. The Innovation Prize belongs to Vacheron Constantin, bestowed on the Traditionnelle Twin Beat perpetual calendar model.

François-Henry Bennahmias, CEO of Audemars Piguet, winner of the “Aiguille d’Or” Grand Prix

François-Henry Bennahmias, CEO of Audemars Piguet, winner of the “Aiguille d’Or” Grand Prix

The prize winners and a selection of the nominated designs are on display at the Geneva Musée d’Artet d’Histoire until November 14th 2019.

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