Calleija: Show-Stopping Designs Lead New ‘Couture’ Collection

October 2, 2019

By Katerina Perez

6 min read

The Australian brand Calleija was founded by John Calleija in 1984 and has already established itself as the preeminent specialist in the use of pink diamonds in jewellery. These collectible gemstones need an exemplary setting, so the brand’s founder and the house designers focus on artistic styles. Highly decorated, detailed jewellery has become Calleija’s signature – but John Calleija’s innovation does not stop there. In September 2019, he released a new and truly exquisite collection entitled ‘Couture,’ in which the brand’s jewellers have outdone themselves, and appear to have taken their mastery to another level.

I am sure you will agree, even the name of the collection carries certain connotations: the unique, the laborious craftsmanship, and of course, the expensive. The ‘Couture’ collection draws together 29 pieces, each possessing its own design, but all making use of rare gems as their centrepiece. In Calleija’s work, they have become the primary decorative element in one–of-a-kind earrings, pendants, necklaces and rings.

Calleija ‘Couture’ collection ‘Calla’ ring with 0.52ct pear shape Vivid Purplish Pink Argyle Pink Tender diamond, colourless and pink diamonds set in rose gold and platinum

Calleija ‘Couture’ collection ‘Calla’ ring with 0.52ct pear shape Vivid Purplish Pink Argyle Pink Tender diamond, colourless and pink diamonds set in rose gold and platinum

I am not just a businessman, I am a jeweller first of all, so Calleija’s motto is ‘a jewel must be beautiful from every angle.’ When it comes to design, everything is all about getting the proportions right and having the right balance of decorative elements. – John Calleija

Calleija 'Couture' collection ‘Sya’ ring with 16.40ct cabochon mandarin garnet, yellow and pink sapphires and diamonds in white and yellow gold

Calleija 'Couture' collection ‘Sya’ ring with 16.40ct cabochon mandarin garnet, yellow and pink sapphires and diamonds in white and yellow gold

 Calleija 'Couture' collection ‘Isola’ ring with 15.21ct cabochon tanzanite, pear cut Argyle pink diamonds, colourless diamonds in rose and white gold

Calleija 'Couture' collection ‘Isola’ ring with 15.21ct cabochon tanzanite, pear cut Argyle pink diamonds, colourless diamonds in rose and white gold

 Calleija 'Couture' collection ‘Aoko’ pendant with 17.31ct morganite, green beryls, morganites and colourless diamonds in white gold (shown on pearl necklace)

Calleija 'Couture' collection ‘Aoko’ pendant with 17.31ct morganite, green beryls, morganites and colourless diamonds in white gold (shown on pearl necklace)

 Calleija 'Couture' collection ‘Aashi’ drop earrings with pear shape morganites, diamonds and green beryls in white and rose gold

Calleija 'Couture' collection ‘Aashi’ drop earrings with pear shape morganites, diamonds and green beryls in white and rose gold

 Calleija 'Couture' collection ‘Coralee’ ring with aquamarine and diamonds in white and yellow gold

Calleija 'Couture' collection ‘Coralee’ ring with aquamarine and diamonds in white and yellow gold

 Calleija 'Couture' collection ‘Nura’ ring with 4.28ct blue zircon and diamonds in rose and white gold

Calleija 'Couture' collection ‘Nura’ ring with 4.28ct blue zircon and diamonds in rose and white gold

 Calleija 'Couture' collection ‘Sousann’ ring with 5ct oval cut diamond, pear shaped Argyle pink diamonds and colourless diamonds in platinum

Calleija 'Couture' collection ‘Sousann’ ring with 5ct oval cut diamond, pear shaped Argyle pink diamonds and colourless diamonds in platinum

 Calleija 'Couture' collection ‘Rayne’ ring with Argyle blue marquise diamond, Argyle pink diamonds and colourless diamonds in platinum and rose gold

Calleija 'Couture' collection ‘Rayne’ ring with Argyle blue marquise diamond, Argyle pink diamonds and colourless diamonds in platinum and rose gold

 Calleija 'Couture' collection ‘Mahina’ earrings with black and colourless diamonds totaling over 12ct in white gold

Calleija 'Couture' collection ‘Mahina’ earrings with black and colourless diamonds totaling over 12ct in white gold

I have found myself pleasantly surprised by the fact that Calleija has decided to diversify the palette of their jewellery by making use of coloured precious stones: juicy pink sapphires, aquamarine of unique size and colour, cabochon cut tanzanite and orange Mandarin garnet. I will take this opportunity to remind you, readers, that the Australian brand Calleija has always specialised exclusively in pink diamonds (both Argyle Pink and Red Tender), extracted in a natural and ethical way at the Argyle mine in Western Australia. An astonishing 90% of the world’s natural pink diamonds come from this single mine – but now the mine’s resources appear almost depleted. The Argyle mine will close in 2020, and if new deposits are not discovered, the pink diamonds can become history.

Calleija 'Couture' collection ‘Ciana’ ring with 2.58ct cushion cut pink sapphire and diamonds in yellow and white gold

Calleija 'Couture' collection ‘Ciana’ ring with 2.58ct cushion cut pink sapphire and diamonds in yellow and white gold

But perhaps there is a silver lining, as even this shortage will become part of Calleija’s narrative. Now, you may understand why there is such a notable increase in interest in natural pink diamonds – and the jewellery which makes use of these stunning stones – in the global market; but it also explains why John Calleija has turned to other stones in his designs. Returning to the new collection, its leading lady is the ‘Carmine’ ring, in the centre of which we find a bright red Argyle Red Tender diamond weighing 0.31 carats. This weight may not seem gargantuan – but its true wonder lies in its rarity: there are only 29 stones of this shade found in the entire history of diamond mining. So, this delicate ring will be three things to its purchaser: an excellent investment, a family heirloom, and of great historical value.

Calleija 'Couture' collection  ‘Carmine’ ring with 0.31ct Australian Argyle Red Tender diamond and Argyle pink diamonds in platinum

Calleija 'Couture' collection ‘Carmine’ ring with 0.31ct Australian Argyle Red Tender diamond and Argyle pink diamonds in platinum

 Calleija 'Couture' collection  ‘Carmine’ ring with 0.31ct Australian Argyle Red Tender diamond and Argyle pink diamonds in platinum

Calleija 'Couture' collection ‘Carmine’ ring with 0.31ct Australian Argyle Red Tender diamond and Argyle pink diamonds in platinum

This is an amazing heart shaped pink diamond from the Argyle Tender weighing .56 ct. We were very lucky to have it, because they only release 50-60 diamonds per year for the tender, and we have a beautiful collection of them, John tells me about another ‘Couture’ ring. One cannot help but marvel at a diamond with such a fascinating ring mount.

Calleija 'Couture' collection ‘Iamore’ ring with Argyle Purplish Pink Tender 0.56ct heart shaped diamond, two rare Argyle blue diamonds, Argyle pink pear shaped diamonds and colourless diamonds in platinum and rose gold

Calleija 'Couture' collection ‘Iamore’ ring with Argyle Purplish Pink Tender 0.56ct heart shaped diamond, two rare Argyle blue diamonds, Argyle pink pear shaped diamonds and colourless diamonds in platinum and rose gold

Another rare exhibit of this collection is the Fancy Purplish-Red diamond weighing 0.54 carats, which adorns the ‘Lady in Red’ ring. For festive events, Calleija designers have provided a ring jacket resembling flower petals. “This diamond has a lot of life in it and, when mined in 2008, it became one of the best red diamonds to ever come out of the Argyle mine. We highlighted its beauty with further pink diamonds as well as a touch of Argyle blue stones,” says Calleija’s founder.

Calleija 'Couture' collection ‘Lady in Red’ ring with 0.54ct Fancy Purplish Red Argyle Tender diamond, Argyle blue and colourless diamonds, and ring jacket with Argyle pink diamonds - both in platinum and rose gold

Calleija 'Couture' collection ‘Lady in Red’ ring with 0.54ct Fancy Purplish Red Argyle Tender diamond, Argyle blue and colourless diamonds, and ring jacket with Argyle pink diamonds - both in platinum and rose gold

 Calleija 'Couture' collection ‘Lady in Red’ ring with 0.54ct Fancy Purplish Red Argyle Tender diamond, Argyle blue and colourless diamonds, and ring jacket with Argyle pink diamonds - both in platinum and rose gold

Calleija 'Couture' collection ‘Lady in Red’ ring with 0.54ct Fancy Purplish Red Argyle Tender diamond, Argyle blue and colourless diamonds, and ring jacket with Argyle pink diamonds - both in platinum and rose gold

 Calleija 'Couture' collection ‘Lady in Red’ ring with 0.54ct Fancy Purplish Red Argyle Tender diamond, Argyle blue and colourless diamonds in platinum and rose gold

Calleija 'Couture' collection ‘Lady in Red’ ring with 0.54ct Fancy Purplish Red Argyle Tender diamond, Argyle blue and colourless diamonds in platinum and rose gold

It should be noted that this is not the only jewel that transforms – a piece from the ‘Couture’ collection which demonstrated the truly innovative spirit of the brand is the ‘Iluka’ ring, which can also be worn as a pendant. It is adorned with a large rectangular aquamarine weighing 33.27 carats, the colour of which resembles the shade of pure sea water, glimmering under a Mediterranean sun. “We bought this stunning aquamarine for the 30th anniversary of Calleija – 5 years ago – and ever since it has been waiting for just the right design. As a result, we decided to make a ring that transforms into a pendant, so as to give its holder even more reasons to wear it,” John says, as he continues to acquaint me with the collection.

Calleija 'Couture' collection ‘Iluka’ transformable ring and pendant with 33.27ct cushion cut aquamarine and diamonds in white gold

Calleija 'Couture' collection ‘Iluka’ transformable ring and pendant with 33.27ct cushion cut aquamarine and diamonds in white gold

 Calleija 'Couture' collection ‘Iluka’ transformable ring and pendant with 33.27ct cushion cut aquamarine and diamonds in white gold

Calleija 'Couture' collection ‘Iluka’ transformable ring and pendant with 33.27ct cushion cut aquamarine and diamonds in white gold

 Calleija 'Couture' collection ‘Iluka’ transformable ring and pendant with 33.27ct cushion cut aquamarine and diamonds in white gold

Calleija 'Couture' collection ‘Iluka’ transformable ring and pendant with 33.27ct cushion cut aquamarine and diamonds in white gold

As one can see, for true masters of their craft there are no boundaries or barriers to creativity. Even if we may no longer be seeing many new Argyle pink diamonds, Calleija will no doubt find new sources of inspiration and continue to create investment worthy collectible jewellery.

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