Inspired Creations: Elie Top on His Definition of Luxury

September 10, 2021

By Katerina Perez

6 min read

“The idea is real luxury with privacy, intimacy, attention and time.” That’s how Flemish-born jewellery designer, Elie Top, describes his private jewellery salon on the Rue Saint Honoré in Paris, which houses his talismanic creations and celestial-inspired designs. Here, I had the pleasure of speaking to Elie about his early crises of confidence, his history in fashion and his latest collections inspired by the majesty and mysteries of nature.

Aged just 17, Elie Top travelled to Paris to study at Ecole de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne, part of L’institut French De La Mode, to study the high art of fashion. From there, aged 19, he was offered the opportunity of a lifetime to work at Yves Saint Laurent and it was this formative experience that shaped his way of working and approach to design. By 21, he had studied under the late designers Loulou de la Falaise and Alber Elbaz and was entrusted with the creation of his first jewels. The rest, as they say, is history.

Elie Top Calao (hornbill) pendant with old mine cut diamonds from the Magica Naturae Collection

Elie Top Calao (hornbill) pendant with old mine cut diamonds from the Magica Naturae Collection

 Elie Top Calao (hornbill) pendant in two-tone gold with a range of patinas from the Magica Naturae Collection

Elie Top Calao (hornbill) pendant in two-tone gold with a range of patinas from the Magica Naturae Collection

 A closer look at the diamond details on the Calao (hornbill) pendant by Elie Top

A closer look at the diamond details on the Calao (hornbill) pendant by Elie Top

“My background in fashion gave me freedom. As I have done no classic jewellery studies or training, I suppose I have a different approach I always start with a silhouette, an attitude, a face even, and keep in mind the question of relevance for today. I don’t limit myself with any rules; the one I follow is the ‘search of beauty’ and that’s all. This is what I learnt from Loulou de la Falaise and Alber Elbaz – there are no boundaries. Keep integrity, independence, spirit and create your own style,” says Elie.

Models wear two variations of the Elie Top Dent pendant, including one in yellow and pink gold (left) and one in gold and silver (right) from the Magica Naturae Collection

Models wear two variations of the Elie Top Dent pendant, including one in yellow and pink gold (left) and one in gold and silver (right) from the Magica Naturae Collection

At a certain point in one’s design career, there is a time when creating for someone else is no longer enough. “You need to express yourself properly, to create your own rules and speak your own language,” Elie explains. Since creating his own brand, Elie has been housed in his ‘Living Room’ – a space a stone’s throw from the Place Vendôme at 217 rue Saint Honoré. Rather than being a boutique, this is a confidential “secret place” or home-away-from-home for his clients that fosters a sense of two friends converging for a meeting of minds and, perhaps, to share a little gossip. As far as Elie is concerned, customers deserve a “certain atmosphere” that’s reminiscent of a time gone by, while also serving as a secretive ‘members’ club’ that’s curated for a chosen few. This attitude certainly makes me want an invite!

Elie Top Tortoise pendant from the Magica Naturae Collection set with orange, yellow and cognac sapphires, diamonds and a beryl

Elie Top Tortoise pendant from the Magica Naturae Collection set with orange, yellow and cognac sapphires, diamonds and a beryl

 Elie Top Tortoise pendant from the Magica Naturae Collection

Elie Top Tortoise pendant from the Magica Naturae Collection

 The Elie Top Tortoise pendant uses different tones of gold and coloured gemstones to great effect

The Elie Top Tortoise pendant uses different tones of gold and coloured gemstones to great effect

Starting an independent brand is very challenging, and it was for Elie too! “When I first launched my own label in 2015, I just wanted to die! I was so nervous, I found everything to be bad and meaningless and was questioning myself and why I wanted to do anything! Then when I saw and heard people’s reactions, I felt relief and more positive euphoric feelings took over.”

Elie Top Crocodile ring from the Magica Naturae Collection with diamonds and emeralds in yellow gold

Elie Top Crocodile ring from the Magica Naturae Collection with diamonds and emeralds in yellow gold

The first collection under the ‘Elie Top’ brand name was Mécaniques Célestes – a dose of futurism through the lens of the Art Deco era with patinated silver, yellow gold, diamonds, pearls and moving parts that are evocative of old mechanical orreries. As his offering continued to grow, the themes of structure, mechanism, volume, space and time are common threads, as is the feeling of unexpected beauty. Even with subtle hints of steam punk, chunky chains and shield-like surfaces of metals, there is an inherent cool to the creations of Elie Top. “My inspirations are a mix of futuristic and Middle Ages aesthetics most of the time, combining the past and future to make it more mysterious… I try to reconcile an industrial taste with a decorative taste, my two opposite favourites! I can also be inspired by simple everyday objects, like a sugar pot or antic pétanques (boules),” he explains.

Elie Top Diamonds Scaphandre choker pendant with a rotating sphere in yellow gold, set on a yellow gold and distressed silver chain

Elie Top Diamonds Scaphandre choker pendant with a rotating sphere in yellow gold, set on a yellow gold and distressed silver chain

 Elie Top Dome double finger ring with a rotating sphere in white gold, malachite, lapis lazuli, diamonds, blue topaz and rubellite

Elie Top Dome double finger ring with a rotating sphere in white gold, malachite, lapis lazuli, diamonds, blue topaz and rubellite

 Elie Top Gouttes pivoting earrings with blue sapphires and diamonds in white gold

Elie Top Gouttes pivoting earrings with blue sapphires and diamonds in white gold

 Elie Top Toi&Moi bracelet with an Akoya and Tahitian pearl, white diamond and black diamond, set in 18k yellow gold and distressed silver

Elie Top Toi&Moi bracelet with an Akoya and Tahitian pearl, white diamond and black diamond, set in 18k yellow gold and distressed silver

 Elie Top Sphere ring that opens to reveal a ruby surrounded by rubies in 18k yellow gold

Elie Top Sphere ring that opens to reveal a ruby surrounded by rubies in 18k yellow gold

 Elie Top Toi&Moi ring with a Tahitian and Akoya pearl and diamonds, set in 18k yellow gold and distressed silver

Elie Top Toi&Moi ring with a Tahitian and Akoya pearl and diamonds, set in 18k yellow gold and distressed silver

When starting the process of creating a new collection, Elie begins with a story, describing himself as “lost” without it as too many things are possible. He continues: “The story leads you and gives coherence”. For example, ‘La Dame du Lac’ or Lady of the Lake, tells the story of the sorceress who gave the mighty sword Excalibur to King Arthur. Pieces in this collection are like “snatches of swords and shield” and are themed around power and protection. Elie was also inspired during the pandemic to create a collection of charms for those searching for more meaningful, emotional and sentimental jewellery with his signature style. “I wanted them to give strength, to bring luck and provide protection,” he says.

A model wears rings by Elie Top alongside the Onyx Octo cuff bracelet with diamonds in 18k yellow gold and distressed silver from the Etoile Mystérieuse Collection

A model wears rings by Elie Top alongside the Onyx Octo cuff bracelet with diamonds in 18k yellow gold and distressed silver from the Etoile Mystérieuse Collection

“My last collection, Magica Naturae is my way of introducing animals into my jewellery world. Like a song of the earth, it walks of the inhabitants of an ancestral forest and their likely encounter with the city of light, Paris,” says Elie. He expands his offering in two directions – precious and everyday jewels – that continue to focus on luxury but with a different focus for women with complex, multi-faceted lives.

Elie Top Diamonds Deux Gouttes chain necklace from the Mécaniques Célestes Collection with white and black diamonds in 18k yellow gold and distressed silver

Elie Top Diamonds Deux Gouttes chain necklace from the Mécaniques Célestes Collection with white and black diamonds in 18k yellow gold and distressed silver

 The Elie Top Diamonds Deux Gouttes chain necklace from the Mécaniques Célestes Collection is modular and can be worn with the diamonds concealed or on show

The Elie Top Diamonds Deux Gouttes chain necklace from the Mécaniques Célestes Collection is modular and can be worn with the diamonds concealed or on show

 A closer look at the Elie Top Diamonds Deux Gouttes chain necklace from the Mécaniques Célestes Collection

A closer look at the Elie Top Diamonds Deux Gouttes chain necklace from the Mécaniques Célestes Collection

One side of Elie Top business that the designer particularly enjoys is an upcycling service, whereby he takes heirlooms and old family jewels and updates them for his customers who are drawn to his unique tastes. He tells me it’s “like a duty to give them a second chance,” and I couldn’t agree more.

Portrait of Elie Top

Portrait of Elie Top

It is always wonderful to speak to a jeweller whose tastes are so uniquely their own. Some will be captivated by the industrial and medieval facets of the collections of Elie Top, whereas others will feel drawn to the mechanics, the celestial themes and the use of diamonds, coloured gemstones and carved hardstones. I hope, like me, you can also see the beauty in its originality. 

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