Joy of Discovery: The Exceptional Gems of HC Arnoldi

October 15, 2021

By Katerina Perez

5 min read

Sometimes one must trace their passion back to its source and, for me at least, one of these sources is Idar-Oberstein – the home of remarkable gem cutting. On my latest visit to this hub of coloured gemstones, I was delighted to be invited to visit HC Arnoldi and discover some of its fantastic aquamarines, Mandarin garnets, tourmalines and rubellites to name but a few. Let me tell you a little more about this fourth-generation company and tell you what I saw within its surprisingly modern walls.

I would be willing to bet that, when I ask you to conjure an image in your mind of coloured gemstones, you imagine one of two scenarios: a piece of rough material in the seconds it emerges from a mine or a perfectly faceted gemstone in a remarkable pendant or perhaps a ring. I wonder how many of you would consider the ‘middle moment’ where a stone is undergoing the pre-forming or cutting process that takes it from rough to finished gem? Fortunately, you need not imagine this moment… I can show it to you.

A selection of cut gemstones by HC Arnoldi including Nigerian Paraiba-like tourmaline, Santa Maria-colour aquamarine from Mozambique, tanzanite, Nigerian green tourmaline, and Mandarin garnet, alongside rough material

A selection of cut gemstones by HC Arnoldi including Nigerian Paraiba-like tourmaline, Santa Maria-colour aquamarine from Mozambique, tanzanite, Nigerian green tourmaline, and Mandarin garnet, alongside rough material

 A selection of cut gemstones by HC Arnoldi including an 8.04 carat Nigerian Paraiba-like tourmaline, a Santa Maria-colour aquamarine of 9.46 carats from Mozambique, a 7.22 carat tanzanite, a Nigerian 13.20 carat green tourmaline, and a pear-shaped Mandarin garnet of 22.59 carats

A selection of cut gemstones by HC Arnoldi including an 8.04 carat Nigerian Paraiba-like tourmaline, a Santa Maria-colour aquamarine of 9.46 carats from Mozambique, a 7.22 carat tanzanite, a Nigerian 13.20 carat green tourmaline, and a pear-shaped Mandarin garnet of 22.59 carats

 A selection of rough coloured gemstone crystals ready to be cut by the experts at HC Arnoldi

A selection of rough coloured gemstone crystals ready to be cut by the experts at HC Arnoldi

On my Instagram recently you may have seen a Live video that I recorded while visiting HC Arnoldi in Kirschweiler, near Idar-Oberstein, in Germany. This company was founded in 1919 and continues to be run today by the third and fourth generations of the same family, Hubert Arnoldi and his children, Carl-Philip and Isaline. If these names are ringing bells, you may remember an article I wrote recently about GEMHYPE.com and the efforts that both Carl-Philip and Isaline are making to digitize their family trade. On this visit to Idar-Oberstein, however, I was more focused on the cutting process, and it was fascinating to be invited into the HC Arnoldi workshops to see both traditional and modern approaches to this art form.

Oval-shaped Nigerian Mandarin garnet of 37.95 carats by HC Arnoldi

Oval-shaped Nigerian Mandarin garnet of 37.95 carats by HC Arnoldi

Firstly, for context, let me tell you a little bit about the history of Idar-Oberstein. Historically, the area was a site of jasper, agate, carnelian, and amethyst mines and, from the late 1400s onwards, gemstone cutters and carvers have worked in the region. By the time the supplies of these local gemstones dried up in the 1800s, the town had already firmly established itself on the international map. Generations of gem cutters have learned their craft here and, even today, it is acknowledged as one of the most prominent seats of cutting and faceting for exceptional, precious stones. There are few I would trust more to cut a fantastic emerald, aquamarine, or tanzanite than those trained in Idar-Oberstein! And I must say, HC Arnoldi would be right at the top of my list.

HC Arnoldi aquamarine necklace layout with 142.18 carats of octagon-shaped gems

HC Arnoldi aquamarine necklace layout with 142.18 carats of octagon-shaped gems

The business operates from modern stylish offices in the nearby municipality of Kirschweiler, which were first opened in 2020. This space is a far cry from the dusty, dark and perhaps even a little dirty workshop that one might expect. It’s open and bright with sizeable rough mineral specimens used as decorative objects to line corridors and staircases. HC Arnoldi is a traditional gemstone lapidary and trading company but, unlike some of its peers, it has special relationships with mines all over the world that allow it to secure exceptional rough that is cut, faceted, polished and sold to jewellers and brands across the globe. Upon arriving at the front door, I was met by Hubert, Carl-Philip and Isaline – the third and fourth generations of their family business to manage the company – and I was able to follow the process of a stone from (sometimes) unremarkable-looking rough material to a 20, 30 or 40 carat gem.

HC Arnoldi bi-colour tourmaline of 25.07 carats

HC Arnoldi bi-colour tourmaline of 25.07 carats

 HC Arnoldi bi-colour tourmaline of 25.07 carats alongside a rough tourmaline crystal

HC Arnoldi bi-colour tourmaline of 25.07 carats alongside a rough tourmaline crystal

Rough material really does ‘speak’ to those who have the required skills to listen. By that I mean a rough specimen dictates the shape it will eventually become, largely due to its crystal structure, inclusions, areas of colour saturation etcetera. During my visit, a deep red spinel from Tanzania was quickly deemed suited for a fancy-cut by master gem-cutter Hubert Arnoldi, who briefly asked his son for a confirmative second opinion, before slicing through it and ‘pre-forming’ the shape. This is an important stage that creates an outline of what the faceters will then have to refine further. Gemstone cutting has been done in virtually the same way for decades in Idar-Oberstein and, as the old saying goes, if something isn’t broke, don’t fix it! HC Arnoldi has those doing faceting completely freehand and by eye, while others use a piece of equipment that is halfway between freehand and digitally aided. Both skills are notoriously tricky to learn and can take years to perfect. In fact, while watching these masters work, it was as if they could see something in the bend of light and the angle of a facet that the rest of us could not. They’re attuned to the pressure to put on a gem to achieve the right planes and the speed with which they polish, look, polish, assess, is quite remarkable to see in person!

HC Arnoldi beryl bracelet layout with 64.94 carats of gems

HC Arnoldi beryl bracelet layout with 64.94 carats of gems

Some of HC Arnoldi’s experts have specialisms, such as one gentleman who is the go-to for freehanded briolettes, pear-shapes and special big stones. I was privileged to see some of the latter for myself, including two bi-colour tourmalines of 25 and 32 carats; the juiciest orange Mandarin garnet, and a natural coloured morganite with a deep peachy-pink colour that’s just waiting to be cut. HC Arnoldi is well-known for its aquamarines, many of which have the coveted Santa Maria colour. This particular shade of bright sky blue is named after the Santa Maria mine in Ceará, Brazil where the world’s best aquamarine was once sourced. Sadly, this location is now depleted, but occasionally pockets are found in other locations, like Madagascar, for example, that can rival its beauty. To appreciate these aquamarines, it is helpful for jewellery designers and brands to see them composed in layouts. These are suites of matching gemstones presented in the shape of necklaces, bracelets, or earrings to provide inspiration or hint at what they might become. My favourite from this visit was a trio of elongated pear-cut aquamarines, laid out to evoke a pendant and a pair of earrings, with a total weight of 54 carats.

HC Arnoldi Santa Maria colour aquamarine of 9.46 carats from Mozambique alongside rough material

HC Arnoldi Santa Maria colour aquamarine of 9.46 carats from Mozambique alongside rough material

 HC Arnoldi pear-shaped aquamarine of 29.2 carats

HC Arnoldi pear-shaped aquamarine of 29.2 carats

 HC Arnoldi oval-shaped green beryl of 25.62 carats

HC Arnoldi oval-shaped green beryl of 25.62 carats

This was a wonderful trip to visit a leader in the field of gem sourcing, cutting and polishing. It is impossible not to feel inspired when you’re immersed in the history of Idar-Oberstein, surrounded by gemstones, and guided by those with the ideal blend of heritage and modernity. I will certainly be going back!

Celebration of Life: The Creative Duet of Valérie Messika and Kate Moss

continue reading

Haute Couture 2025: Exploring Harmonious Balance with the Cartier En Équilibre High Jewellery Collection

Each of the En Équilibre hero creations is composed like a character in a story that we can easily follow. Let’s take a closer look… 

by Sarah Jordan

Haute Couture 2025: A Botanical Reawakening with the Chaumet Jewels by Nature Collection

From magnolia blooms to iris petals caught in the breeze, Chaumet’s Jewels by Nature is a high jewellery collection rooted in the way Empress Joséphine romanticised the natural world.

by Claire Roberts

Setting Themselves Apart: 7 Designers Rethinking the Role of the Gemstone Setting

In jewellery making, the setting is often a silent partner—a technical necessity that secures the stones in place while receding into the background. But a new generation of designers is flipping that script, transforming the process of setting gems into an expressive, sculptural and narrative force.

by Claire Roberts

Beauty of Beginnings: Exploring the Potential of Paper with Katerina Perez

If you are optimistic by nature, you may look at a blank sheet of paper and see limitless opportunities for creativity. Recently, my friend and visual artist Ksenia Usacheva approached me about a new ‘blank canvas’ inspired editorial project, incorporating reams of white paper, brushstrokes of colourful paint, and beautiful high jewellery.

by Ksenia Usacheva

Haute Couture 2025: Stepping Inside ‘Caroline’s Universe’ with the Chopard Red Carpet Collection

Let's take a closer look at some of Caroline Scheufele's latest colourful adornments, including our 10 favourite pieces.

by Sarah Jordan

Beauty Shapes Tomorrow: Nouvel Héritage Unveils High Jewels for 10th Anniversary

For French brand Nouvel Héritage, the time has come to unveil its debut suite of five high jewellery creations, each one an ode to its iconic Mood and Latch collections, as well as the soon-to-be-launched Try Me line.

by Sarah Jordan

Incomparable Artistry: The Legendary Story of Beverly Hills Jewellery Designer Martin Katz 

This formidable Californian jeweller has spent decades sourcing the finest coloured gemstones, creating one-of-a-kind jewels, and dressing famous celebrities. Let me tell you more about an incomparable jewellery tour de force…

by Sarah Jordan

Prophecy and Poetry: The Story Behind My Bespoke Pendant by El’eeté Jewellery

Sometimes universal forces align to put the right person in your path at the perfect time. That was absolutely the case when one of my Instagram followers, Elvira Iurova, the Founder of El’eeté Jewellery, contacted me to introduce her unique bespoke jewellery concept.

by Katerina Perez

Haute Couture 2025: The Most Impressive Flower High Jewels that Bloomed in Paris

Floral jewels have long been a hallmark of high jewellery, but at this year’s Haute Couture presentations in Paris, designers approached the motif with renewed focus and technical ambition. Here, we spotlight the standout floral creations from the 2025 shows.

by Joshua Hendren

Haute Couture 2025: Celebrating 20 Years with the Messika Terres d’Instinct High Jewellery Collection 

Let’s take a closer look at the collection, including some of its neckwear highlights, and discover its romantic inspirations…

by Sarah Jordan

Haute Couture 2025: Exploring the Debut High Jewellery Collection of Sahag Arslanian

This July’s Haute Couture Week in Paris was marked with the exciting launch of a new high jewellery brand that bears the name of its founder. Third-generation diamantaire Sahag Arslanian presented his inaugural series of high jewels, drawing inspiration from the power of the sun and the cosmic world.

by Katerina Perez

Haute Couture 2025: Boucheron Explores Shades of Grey with the Impermanence High Jewellery Collection 

With its Carte Blanche High Jewellery collections, Boucheron's Creative Director Claire Choisne has the power to explore whatever fantastical avenue she pleases, which in 2025 centres on flowers and the natural world.

by Sarah Jordan

Latest Stories

Add articles and images to your favourites. Just

Elevated Expression:Examining The Jade Dynasty Collection by Austy Lee

Let's hear what he has to say on China's most emblematic mineral…

by Sarah Jordan

Jewels Katerina Perez Loves

Continue Reading

In Conversation:Discussing Paraiba - The Legacy of a Color

with Vogue Singapore

by Katerina Perez

Jewellery Insights straight to your inbox

Style Guide

By using this website, you agree to the storing of cookies on your device to enhance site navigation, analyze site usage, and assist in our marketing efforts. View our Privacy Policy for more information.