Hemmerle: The biggest single-owner sale in history to be auctioned at Sotheby’s

November 22, 2019

By Katerina Perez

4 min read

On 26th November 2019, the largest single-owner collection of Hemmerle jewellery in history will be auctioned at Sotheby’s in London. Such diverse and at the same time instantly recognisable jewellery made by the Munich-based company will be given a new lease of life. It is jewellery that deserves to be worn and enjoyed, not stored in a box and hidden from public view.

The Hemmerle jewellery maison, founded in 1893, is a family-owned business run by jewellers who are known for their love of innovative combinations of materials, craftsmanship and quality, for blurring the line between jewellery, art and design.

Hemmerle emerald bead, jasper cameo and tsavorite garnet pendant necklace

Hemmerle emerald bead, jasper cameo and tsavorite garnet pendant necklace

Kristian Spofforth, head of Sotheby’s jewellery department in London, said: Hemmerle jewels are a rare sight at auction and so it is a joy to be able to offer this unique single-owner collection. We often see clients collecting across the categories in our sales. The avant-garde designs of these jewels are sure to transcend the field of jewellery and appeal to seasoned collectors of fine art and contemporary design.

Hemmerle spinel and pink sapphire earrings

Hemmerle spinel and pink sapphire earrings

To present the full scope of the upcoming sale: in 2006, Die Neue Sammlung, the Munich Museum of Art and Design, organised the Hemmerle exhibition ‘Myths: Jewels Today’, where – thanks to the amazing efforts of the organisers – 145 of the brand’s jewellery creations were presented. Now, 12 pieces of Hemmerle jewellery are being offered for purchase at the same time, something which can be considered as impressive for a collection made by the brand.

Hemmerle emerald bead, jasper cameo and tsavorite garnet pendant necklace

Hemmerle emerald bead, jasper cameo and tsavorite garnet pendant necklace

Christian Hemmerle, director of the Hemmerle jewellery maison, commented on the occasion as follows: “By blending the vocabulary of sculpture with the functional demands of jewellery design, we strive for a timelessness in our work that endures – we are pleased audiences will have the rare opportunity to reassess these historical works through the filter of the present. Collected by a single owner over a decade, these creations provide insight into our context and development as designers during an important and defining period in our history. Recent years have also seen jewellery become more widely recognised as an art form, in turn growing the secondary market for contemporary collectible jewellery – we are pleased to see our creations become part of this development through this unprecedented sale.”

Hemmerle emerald bead, jasper cameo and tsavorite garnet pendant necklace

Hemmerle emerald bead, jasper cameo and tsavorite garnet pendant necklace

 Hemmerle emerald bead, jasper cameo and tsavorite garnet pendant necklace

Hemmerle emerald bead, jasper cameo and tsavorite garnet pendant necklace

The collection is truly timeless, something that is apparent when studying the jewellery itself. It includes four pieces made with antique cameos – a practice that has become Hemmerle’s hallmark – the most impressive of which is a pendant necklace depicting Neptune in jade, surrounded by emeralds and tsavorites with an oval link chain.

Hemmerle cameo and diamond earrings

Hemmerle cameo and diamond earrings

 Hemmerle pair of diamond brooch hair clips

Hemmerle pair of diamond brooch hair clips

 Hemmerle pair of diamond brooch hair clips

Hemmerle pair of diamond brooch hair clips

Earrings made with diamonds in pineapple-shaped settings decorated with two large traditionally faceted diamonds of a grey and orange-brown colour also merit attention. Each of them holds a 19th century cameo in a diamond setting: one is an agate with a profile of a Moorish woman, the other is an onyx depicting the patron of the poets Horace and Virgil. A pair of brooches boasting amazing diamonds offer the wearer with an avant-garde opportunity: to transform the brooches into a laurel branch that can be worn as a hair clip.

Hemmerle pair of diamond brooch hair clips

Hemmerle pair of diamond brooch hair clips

This remarkable collection will be auctioned alongside an outstanding selection of precious stones from the 19th century to the present. All the jewellery will be on display at Sotheby’s Gallery in New Bond Street from 22nd to 25th November.

Notivory Art: Art that speaks of the problems in our oceans

continue reading

Naked Attraction: The Best High Jewellery of the 2025 Cannes Film Festival 

Here’s a rundown of some of the best Cannes jewellery looks from the 78th annual festival (May 13-24), including the likes of Dakota Johnson, Angelina Jolie, and Natalie Portman, who all make striking jewellery the star of their ensembles

by Sarah Jordan

In Conversation: Discussing Paraiba — The Legacy of a Color with Vogue Singapore

The conversation encouraged both myself and Kevin Ferreira, my co-author, to recall exactly why we wrote Paraiba: The Legacy of a Color, and I am pleased to share more with you below

by Katerina Perez

Semi-Precious vs Precious Gemstones: Why the Old Labels No Longer Work

I can’t count the number of times I’ve asked myself: what really sets so-called precious and semi-precious stonesapart? Is it their rarity? Colour? Durability? Value? Or is it simply tradition—an outdated hierarchy we’ve inherited without question

by Katerina Perez

Larger than Life: New Mineral Masterpieces and Global Adventures with Margot McKinney 

Let’s take a closer look at the pieces and places that have helped to shape the Margot McKinney brand over the last 12 months, including the rather sensational Marina, Aurora and Bloem necklaces

by Katerina Perez

Male Adornment: The Evolution of Men’s Jewellery from the 1400s Until Today

Men's jewellery is often overlooked, yet its history is both rich and cyclical. Over the past six centuries, the popularity of male adornments has fluctuated, reflecting shifts in fashion, status, and cultural values. Here, Amanda Triossi examines the reasons behind male jewellery, along with its periods of abundance and decline.

by Amanda Triossi

Perfect Proposal: The Top 10 Engagement Ring Mistakes to Avoid 

The moment you start thinking about proposing, everything shifts. Ordinary things become significant: dinner out, a walk in the park, a glance at their jewellery box. And then comes "the ring": a symbol of love, yes, but also a silent spokesperson for everything you feel and hope for. No pressure, right?

by Claire Roberts

Couture Show 2025: The Top 10 Debutants Heading to Las Vegas 

The much anticipated Couture Show will return to Wynn Las Vegas from June 4-8, 2025, shining a spotlight on established design talent, new creatives, and international brands that are vying for attention on the global stage. Just like in previous years, I am focusing my attention on the debutants

by Katerina Perez

Designing the Future: Revealing the Winners of the Katerina Perez x Osmium Institute Design Contest

What a ride it has been, witnessing such pure creative energy and original thinking, especially with a material as rare and futuristic as osmium

by Katerina Perez

New Icons: The Latest Collections by Italian Micromosaic Master SICIS 

I was presented with two striking new collections – Icon and Colibrì – that offer different interpretations of the SICIS aesthetic. Below, I want to give you a closer look at these capsule suites and tell you more about the inspirations behind them

by Katerina Perez

Fabulous Fabrications: TAOS Presents a Trio of Watches Inspired by Couture Fashion

Occasionally, beautiful timepieces demonstrating exceptional Métiers d’Art will land on our virtual desks and result in a round-robin series of emails. In the hours after we received insights into the emerging Swiss brand TAOS, almost the entire team had seen the fabric-inspired dials of its latest creations, and we all agreed that an article was […]

by Sarah Jordan

A Century of Sparkle: Celebrating 100 Years of Art Deco at GemGenève

From May 8-11, 2025, visitors to GemGenève can immerse themselves in a showcase of antique and modern jewellery while also experiencing the innovative spirit of the 1920s and 1930s through a photographic lens. Here, I'd like to tell you more about this creative collaboration and introduce you to the brands taking part…

by Katerina Perez

Tailored Perfection: The Best Jewellery Looks of the Met Gala 2025

Not since 2003 has a Met Gala theme focused exclusively on menswear, so we had high hopes for this year’s attendees demonstrating the best of tailored suiting adorned with high jewels. Let’s take a closer look at some of the best ensembles of the evening…

by Sarah Jordan

Latest Stories

Add articles and images to your favourites. Just

Reinventing Royalty:The European-Inspired Luxury Behind Isabel Gemology

I started 2025 with a series of articles titled ‘Jeweller of the Month’ to highlight the true talent among niche designers in the jewellery industry. For May, it is Isabel Delgado, the founder of Isabel Gemology, who I would like to shine the spotlight on.

by Katerina Perez

Jewels Katerina Perez Loves

Continue Reading

Writing Adventures:Co-Authoring the Book

Paraiba: The Legacy of a Color

by Katerina Perez

Jewellery Insights straight to your inbox

Style Guide

By using this website, you agree to the storing of cookies on your device to enhance site navigation, analyze site usage, and assist in our marketing efforts. View our Privacy Policy for more information.