Spring-Summer 2016 Trends: Chunky vs Dainty Jewellery

January 26, 2016

By Katerina Perez

3 min read

Over the course of the last fashion season we have seen the jewellery at the shows getting bigger and bigger. Now we have reached the maximum look for statement necklaces with pendants covering your whole chest, earring expanding far beyond the size of the earlobe and cuff bracelets covering the whole wrist because it looks like the spring/summer 2016 season is taking a turn for the smaller.

It seems that the main reason jewellery looks set to get a little more dainty is that the clothes we are seeing in the spring-summer shows are becoming less intricate. Instead of prints we are seeing monochrome fabrics in a variety of different textures and shades, with a clear-cut silhouette increasingly favoured over multiple layers. All of which suggests a clear shift in the direction of more minimalist, finessed styles in both fashion and jewellery.

Bold outfits made to stand out in a crowd have fallen by the wayside too and in their place we are seeing the rise of more restrained looks such as the so-called ‘simplified luxury’. This new fashion direction is influencing the earrings, necklaces and bracelets designers are picking for their models on the catwalks of the 2016 shows. Jewellery styles and looks are becoming less extravagant  – Salvatore Ferragamo and Sacai’s models have been stepping out at the fashion shows in long chain earrings with a single pearls, Versace and Rag & Bone girls have opted for understated metal hoop earrings, while Giambattista Valli and Ferragamo again have gone for long, understated pendant chains. Looking at the change in taste, the phrase, “All great things are simple”, comes to mind.

From left to right: fine hoop earrings on Rag & Bone model; fine chain pendant on Giambattista Valli model, solo earrings with a pearl on a chain worn by Sacai model. All Spring – Summer 2016 collections

From left to right: fine hoop earrings on Rag & Bone model; fine chain pendant on Giambattista Valli model, solo earrings with a pearl on a chain worn by Sacai model. All Spring – Summer 2016 collections

If you look at the catwalk offerings for spring/summer 2016, it is clear that complex patterns that made up jewellery designs in the autumn/winter collections, such as Hermes’s large gold and diamond necklace and Dolce&Gabbana’s baroque-style earrings, are pretty much absent from the summer models. We are no longer seeing things like the stylish choker necklace with Byzantine decorations which adorned the neckline of Cara Delevingne at Chanel’s autumn show; instead, what is popping up on the podium is body jewellery which is not less showy. At the New York show, Alexander McQueen and Calvin Klein’s slender-waisted models were draped in fine webs of chains, evidence of a new wave of popularity for multi-layered jewellery – thin stackable rings combining to form a bold look, lengthy sautoirs which can be worn with two or three layers simultaneously. Together they have created a trend for volume in jewellery which has seamlessly transitioned from the winter to the summer season.

Previously, to achieve statement look, designers had no choice but to make their jewellery more hefty, such as the flat bird necklace from Giambattista Valli which covered the whole chest or the Lanvin’s really wide art-deco cuff bracelet. Now they do it by adding layers – examples of this include a broad gold choker from the J. W. Anderson summer show made up of three wavy elements combining to make one whole and Chanel’s four strings of pearls one above the other linked into a single necklace covering the entire neck.

These models exemplify volume created via layering jewellery in Spring – Summer 2016. From left to right: Chanel layered sautoirs, J.W. Anderson wave chocker, Chanel 4-string choker

These models exemplify volume created via layering jewellery in Spring – Summer 2016. From left to right: Chanel layered sautoirs, J.W. Anderson wave chocker, Chanel 4-string choker

There is no reason to see this rise of a simpler style of jewellery as the return of an unadventurous classic; today’s designers are finding new ways to make even the more simple jewellery attractive and original. Carrera Y Carrera, for example, play with contrasts between matt and polished gold, while Antonini combine different metal shades in the same piece of jewellery and Buccellati give unusual textures to their gold, something which sets the brand apart from its competitors.

Whatever the ebbs and flows of fashion, it’s worth keeping in mind that the point of jewellery is to emphasise your own individual style, which need not necessarily be what the fashion gurus tell you is in for the upcoming spring/summer season.

Designer’s Monologue: Wallace Chan Talks About His Creations and Appreciation for Gemstones

continue reading

Haute Couture 2025: Exploring Harmonious Balance with the Cartier En Équilibre High Jewellery Collection

Each of the En Équilibre hero creations is composed like a character in a story that we can easily follow. Let’s take a closer look… 

by Sarah Jordan

Haute Couture 2025: A Botanical Reawakening with the Chaumet Jewels by Nature Collection

From magnolia blooms to iris petals caught in the breeze, Chaumet’s Jewels by Nature is a high jewellery collection rooted in the way Empress Joséphine romanticised the natural world.

by Claire Roberts

Setting Themselves Apart: 7 Designers Rethinking the Role of the Gemstone Setting

In jewellery making, the setting is often a silent partner—a technical necessity that secures the stones in place while receding into the background. But a new generation of designers is flipping that script, transforming the process of setting gems into an expressive, sculptural and narrative force.

by Claire Roberts

Beauty of Beginnings: Exploring the Potential of Paper with Katerina Perez

If you are optimistic by nature, you may look at a blank sheet of paper and see limitless opportunities for creativity. Recently, my friend and visual artist Ksenia Usacheva approached me about a new ‘blank canvas’ inspired editorial project, incorporating reams of white paper, brushstrokes of colourful paint, and beautiful high jewellery.

by Ksenia Usacheva

Haute Couture 2025: Stepping Inside ‘Caroline’s Universe’ with the Chopard Red Carpet Collection

Let's take a closer look at some of Caroline Scheufele's latest colourful adornments, including our 10 favourite pieces.

by Sarah Jordan

Beauty Shapes Tomorrow: Nouvel Héritage Unveils High Jewels for 10th Anniversary

For French brand Nouvel Héritage, the time has come to unveil its debut suite of five high jewellery creations, each one an ode to its iconic Mood and Latch collections, as well as the soon-to-be-launched Try Me line.

by Sarah Jordan

Incomparable Artistry: The Legendary Story of Beverly Hills Jewellery Designer Martin Katz 

This formidable Californian jeweller has spent decades sourcing the finest coloured gemstones, creating one-of-a-kind jewels, and dressing famous celebrities. Let me tell you more about an incomparable jewellery tour de force…

by Sarah Jordan

Prophecy and Poetry: The Story Behind My Bespoke Pendant by El’eeté Jewellery

Sometimes universal forces align to put the right person in your path at the perfect time. That was absolutely the case when one of my Instagram followers, Elvira Iurova, the Founder of El’eeté Jewellery, contacted me to introduce her unique bespoke jewellery concept.

by Katerina Perez

Haute Couture 2025: The Most Impressive Flower High Jewels that Bloomed in Paris

Floral jewels have long been a hallmark of high jewellery, but at this year’s Haute Couture presentations in Paris, designers approached the motif with renewed focus and technical ambition. Here, we spotlight the standout floral creations from the 2025 shows.

by Joshua Hendren

Haute Couture 2025: Celebrating 20 Years with the Messika Terres d’Instinct High Jewellery Collection 

Let’s take a closer look at the collection, including some of its neckwear highlights, and discover its romantic inspirations…

by Sarah Jordan

Haute Couture 2025: Exploring the Debut High Jewellery Collection of Sahag Arslanian

This July’s Haute Couture Week in Paris was marked with the exciting launch of a new high jewellery brand that bears the name of its founder. Third-generation diamantaire Sahag Arslanian presented his inaugural series of high jewels, drawing inspiration from the power of the sun and the cosmic world.

by Katerina Perez

Haute Couture 2025: Boucheron Explores Shades of Grey with the Impermanence High Jewellery Collection 

With its Carte Blanche High Jewellery collections, Boucheron's Creative Director Claire Choisne has the power to explore whatever fantastical avenue she pleases, which in 2025 centres on flowers and the natural world.

by Sarah Jordan

Latest Stories

Add articles and images to your favourites. Just

Elevated Expression:Examining The Jade Dynasty Collection by Austy Lee

Let's hear what he has to say on China's most emblematic mineral…

by Sarah Jordan

Jewels Katerina Perez Loves

Continue Reading

In Conversation:Discussing Paraiba - The Legacy of a Color

with Vogue Singapore

by Katerina Perez

Jewellery Insights straight to your inbox

Style Guide

By using this website, you agree to the storing of cookies on your device to enhance site navigation, analyze site usage, and assist in our marketing efforts. View our Privacy Policy for more information.