Winter Wonderland: Snow-Inspired Jewels that Evoke the Season of Frost

December 7, 2020

By Katerina Perez

10 min read

The icy bite of cold weather has long stirred the imagination of fine jewellery houses, who celebrate the season with literal and abstract interpretations of snow and ice. White diamonds are, of course, the perfect medium for such pieces, and yet many houses turn to alternative materials, like deep blue gemstones, enamel, porcelain, and hand-painted mother of pearl to achieve their winter aesthetic. Here, I have chosen pieces that capture the essence of winter in a variety of ways, each with its own unique appeal.

The changeability of the seasons is a ubiquitous source of inspiration for jewellery collections and has been for decades, if not centuries. From Art Nouveau to the present day, winter-themed jewels seek to capture the cold and frozen shift in weather but also hint at the magic that lies beneath and has so shaped the ‘winter wonderland’ theme. I enjoy seeing how the season is reinterpreted year-after-year and pay special attention to the collections and novelties that aspire to do something different, add a touch of quirkiness to the festive period, or reinvent traditional motifs with innovative materials. The pieces selected below are so evocative of winter it would be hard to imagine them worn or displayed in the height of summer. Perhaps that is the highest compliment one can pay to winter inspired luxuries.

Wallace Chan

The sheer creativity of master artisan Wallace Chan never ceases to amaze me. Having seen his transformable Snowflake brooch at TEFAF this year, I am still deeply impressed how it can be turned to create two distinctive patterns. Inspired by the idea that no two snowflakes are ever the same, it is crafted in coloured titanium and Wallace Chan porcelain, with aquamarine, blue topaz, pink sapphire, green tourmaline and a 7.86ct yellow diamond centre. To create something so delicate in appearance with such strong, hardwearing materials is both a feat of engineering and jewellery craftsmanship.

The Wallace Chan transformable Snowflake brooch can be turned to create two distinctive patterns

The Wallace Chan transformable Snowflake brooch can be turned to create two distinctive patterns

 The Wallace Chan Snowflake brooch crafted in coloured titanium with Wallace Chan Porcelain, aquamarine, topaz, sapphires and tourmaline

The Wallace Chan Snowflake brooch crafted in coloured titanium with Wallace Chan Porcelain, aquamarine, topaz, sapphires and tourmaline

 At the centre of the Wallace Chan Snowflake brooch is a 7.86 carat yellow diamond

At the centre of the Wallace Chan Snowflake brooch is a 7.86 carat yellow diamond

David Michael

Australian atelier David Michael drew inspiration from the artistry of Lalique for its Winter Koi Pond brooch, which gives the impression of a koi carp swimming beneath frozen water. Carved from naturally included rock crystal, the carp itself was hand-painted on a carefully selected slice of mother of pearl, which provided the perfect multi-tonal backdrop for the creature. As an art object, the brooch marries diamonds and moonstone pavé with carved cacholong – a form of common opal – grey spinels, tsavorites and diamond ‘cubes’ that add extra shape and dimension. The Winter Koi Pond brooch, which has 47.47 carats of total stone weight, will be sold at the Magnificent Jewels sale hosted by Sotheby’s in December.

David Michael Winter Koi Pond brooch

David Michael Winter Koi Pond brooch

 The Winter Koi Pond brooch by David Michael is decorated with gems both front and back

The Winter Koi Pond brooch by David Michael is decorated with gems both front and back

 David Michael Winter Koi Pond brooch with a hand-painted koi carp beneath a 'frozen' surface of rock crystal

David Michael Winter Koi Pond brooch with a hand-painted koi carp beneath a 'frozen' surface of rock crystal

 The original design for the Winter Koi Pond brooch by David Michael was inspired by Lalique

The original design for the Winter Koi Pond brooch by David Michael was inspired by Lalique

 Selecting the perfect piece of mother-of-pearl for the Winter Koi Pond brooch by David Michael

Selecting the perfect piece of mother-of-pearl for the Winter Koi Pond brooch by David Michael

 Carving rock crystal to evoke frozen water for David Michael's Winter Koi Pond brooch

Carving rock crystal to evoke frozen water for David Michael's Winter Koi Pond brooch

 Creating the shape for the three-dimensional Winter Koi Pond brooch

Creating the shape for the three-dimensional Winter Koi Pond brooch

 Carving portions of cacholong - a form of common opal - for the Winter Koi Pond brooch

Carving portions of cacholong - a form of common opal - for the Winter Koi Pond brooch

 The David Michael atelier carefully created each element of the Winter Koi Pond brooch by hand

The David Michael atelier carefully created each element of the Winter Koi Pond brooch by hand

 A round brilliant cut diamond destined for the Winter Koi Pond brooch, created by David Michael

A round brilliant cut diamond destined for the Winter Koi Pond brooch, created by David Michael

Liza Borzaya

Winter isn’t just about snowflakes and ice, it’s also a time of celebration in many parts of the world. In Russia we celebrate the New Year in the same way as Europeans celebrate Christmas, just a few days later. So, this year Russian high jewellery designer Liza Borzaya decided to treat her customers to New Year capsule collection of charms shaped as baubles, painted with hot enamel depicting winter birds and embellished with diamonds. I also admire the playfulness of her Sweets collection with surprising Christmas motifs, like gingerbread men, candy canes or cookies. Each charm is affixed with a key and presented with a lock that can be worn as a pendant on a long diamond sautoir or attached to a flexible gold mesh-like wraparound necklace.

Christmas charms from Liza Borzaya's Sweets collection

Christmas charms from Liza Borzaya's Sweets collection

 Liza Borzaya has created a key and lock mechanism that attaches charms to diamond sautoir necklaces

Liza Borzaya has created a key and lock mechanism that attaches charms to diamond sautoir necklaces

 Liza Borzaya's Sweets charms can be worn on a flexible gold mesh-like necklace

Liza Borzaya's Sweets charms can be worn on a flexible gold mesh-like necklace

 Charms in the Sweets collection by Liza Borzaya are perfect for Christmas

Charms in the Sweets collection by Liza Borzaya are perfect for Christmas

Van Cleef & Arpels

The Van Cleef & Arpels Snowflake Haute Joaillerie collection, which is a part of its permanent offering, represents a more subtle take on the winter theme that allows pieces to be confidently worn in brighter months. That being said, its densely placed white diamonds in earrings, pendants, bracelets and rings somehow still manage to give the impression of evening glamour more suited to dark evenings. The snowflake has been a theme of the House since the 1940s, which demonstrates just how evergreen the notion is among collectors. I am particularly inspired by the Snowflake transformable necklace in platinum, white gold and diamonds, which contains 680 stones totalling 63.87 carats.

Van Cleef & Aprels transformable Snowflake necklace with 680 stones totalling 63.87 carats

Van Cleef & Aprels transformable Snowflake necklace with 680 stones totalling 63.87 carats

 Van Cleef & Arpels Snowflake collerette transformable necklace in platinum

Van Cleef & Arpels Snowflake collerette transformable necklace in platinum

 Van Cleef & Arpels Snowflake earrings with 13.73 carats of diamonds

Van Cleef & Arpels Snowflake earrings with 13.73 carats of diamonds

 Van Cleef & Arpels Snowflake neckalce

Van Cleef & Arpels Snowflake neckalce

 The Van Cleef & Arpels transformable necklace can also be worn as a bracelet

The Van Cleef & Arpels transformable necklace can also be worn as a bracelet

 Van Cleef & Arpels Snowflake bracelet with 21.5 carats of diamonds

Van Cleef & Arpels Snowflake bracelet with 21.5 carats of diamonds

 Van Cleef & Arpels Snowflake Noeud clip

Van Cleef & Arpels Snowflake Noeud clip

 Van Cleef & Arpels Snowflake Ring with 3.01 carats of diamonds

Van Cleef & Arpels Snowflake Ring with 3.01 carats of diamonds

 Van Cleef & Arpels Snowflake ring with 5.66 carats of diamonds

Van Cleef & Arpels Snowflake ring with 5.66 carats of diamonds

Chopard

Every year, Chopard artistic director, Caroline Scheufele sets the artisans in the Maison’s atelier the challenge of creating the same number of pieces as the anniversary year of the Cannes International Film Festival. This year, that’s led to 73 new creations inspired by the natural world, including three-dimensional, gem-set polar bears and seals that transport me straight to the polar ice caps. The Polar Bear ring is especially endearing with 12.5 carats of brilliant cut diamonds, set in white gold, with black diamonds and two cabochon-cut sapphires to add liveliness to its eyes. Maybe as a subtle nod to each animal’s different temperament, the Seal ring, also in white gold and diamonds, uses cabochon cut topazes to create a cheeky glint in the eyes instead.

Chopard White Teddy Bears ring with brilliant-cut diamonds, black diamonds and cabochon sapphires

Chopard White Teddy Bears ring with brilliant-cut diamonds, black diamonds and cabochon sapphires

 Chopard Owl timepiece with brilliant- and trapeze-cut diamonds and multi-coloured sapphires

Chopard Owl timepiece with brilliant- and trapeze-cut diamonds and multi-coloured sapphires

 Chopard Seal ring with brilliant-cut white diamonds, coloured diamonds and cabochon topazes

Chopard Seal ring with brilliant-cut white diamonds, coloured diamonds and cabochon topazes

 Chopard Polar Bear ring with 12.5 carats of diamonds and cabochon cut sapphires

Chopard Polar Bear ring with 12.5 carats of diamonds and cabochon cut sapphires

Fabergé

Sometimes the story behind a piece is just as interesting as the piece itself. A new Heritage locket in 18k rose gold, diamonds and blue guilloché enamel contains a ‘polar bear surprise’ – crafted in white enamel, black diamonds and agate – that’s directly inspired by an onyx carved polar bear miniature, produced by Peter Carl Fabergé himself in 1909. This original onyx bear has a fascinating history, having been owned by French nobility and purchased by Virginia Fair Vanderbilt, an American socialite. Vanderbilt acquired the snow-white bear for £26 from Fabergé’s London boutique in September 1909, chosen as a gift for the Marquise Berthe de Ganay.

Fabergé Polar Bear Surprise locket in rose gold with blue guilloché enamel

Fabergé Polar Bear Surprise locket in rose gold with blue guilloché enamel

 The exterior of the Fabergé Polar Bear Surprise locket is decorated with enamel and 15 brilliant-cut diamonds

The exterior of the Fabergé Polar Bear Surprise locket is decorated with enamel and 15 brilliant-cut diamonds

 Inside the Fabergé Polar Bear Surprise locket is a white gold polar bear, with white enamel and black diamond eyes

Inside the Fabergé Polar Bear Surprise locket is a white gold polar bear, with white enamel and black diamond eyes

Boucheron

Although launched in 2017, the Boucheron Hiver Impérial high jewellery collection is still important to note for its wintertime array of diamonds, pearls and precious stones. Boucheron was in fact the first French jeweller to open a boutique in Moscow in 1897. All Hiver Impérial jewels were inspired by arctic landscapes across vast swathes of Russia divided into three chapters. Of note is the first one – Lumière de Nuit, led by the Flocon Impérial necklace with detachable pendants. Set with a 5.20 carat cushion-cut diamond, it is embellished with meticulously carved snowflake-style rock crystal shapes with inlaid diamonds, all set in white gold.

Boucheron Flocon Impérial necklace from the Hiver Impérial High Jewellery collection crafted in diamonds and rock crystal

Boucheron Flocon Impérial necklace from the Hiver Impérial High Jewellery collection crafted in diamonds and rock crystal

 Boucheron Boule de Neige ring set with a rock crystal dome filled with diamonds

Boucheron Boule de Neige ring set with a rock crystal dome filled with diamonds

 Boucheron Flocon ring with diamonds and mother of pearl

Boucheron Flocon ring with diamonds and mother of pearl

 Boucheron Foxy La Renarde ring set with a 7.28 carat green pear tourmaline, emeralds and diamonds

Boucheron Foxy La Renarde ring set with a 7.28 carat green pear tourmaline, emeralds and diamonds

 Boucheron Perles Australes bracelet with natural pearls, from the Femmes Boréales Chapter of the Hiver Impérial High Jewellery collection

Boucheron Perles Australes bracelet with natural pearls, from the Femmes Boréales Chapter of the Hiver Impérial High Jewellery collection

 Boucheron  Laïka Le Husky timepiece in white gold with diamonds, sapphires, spinels, rock crystal and jade

Boucheron Laïka Le Husky timepiece in white gold with diamonds, sapphires, spinels, rock crystal and jade

 Boucheron Perle Impériale ring with a 17 mm round South Sea cultured pearl, diamonds and freshwater cultured pearls

Boucheron Perle Impériale ring with a 17 mm round South Sea cultured pearl, diamonds and freshwater cultured pearls

 Boucheron  Laïka Le Husky ring  with a 31.21 carat Burmese light greyish-blue antique cushion sapphire, grey spinels, sapphires and diamonds

Boucheron Laïka Le Husky ring with a 31.21 carat Burmese light greyish-blue antique cushion sapphire, grey spinels, sapphires and diamonds

Depending on where you are in the world, winter can be a blessing or a curse. Even so, there’s a synergy between icicles, snowflakes and high jewellery, especially when considering the most luxurious of creative materials: diamonds. What heightens my appreciation is when diamonds are elevated through transformable elements or unusual materials that really bring the freeze of winter to life.

David Morris: Tempting Fate with the Lucky Fortuna Collection

continue reading

Essential Passion: The Artistic Pursuits of Mehragin Rahmati of Mergin Jewelry 

Jewellery can be thoughtful and insular, or it can be effusive and bold and full of character that makes it stand out from the crowd. I would put the colourful and charismatic creations of Mehragin Rahmati into the latter camp because of their attention-grabbing silhouettes, unusual structures, and confident mineral palettes.

by Katerina Perez

Maestro of Masterpieces: New High Jewels in the Picchiotti Classics Collection

Ahead of this year’s Couture show in Las Vegas, Picchiotti has revealed some of the latest additions to its high jewellery repertoire, including new suites in the Picchiotti Classics collection.

by Sarah Jordan

Reasons to Shop: The Moments that Demand a Fresh Jewellery Purchase 

There's no rule that says you need a reason to buy a new piece of jewellery, but sometimes, a little encouragement makes the decision even more exciting. If you're looking for a playful excuse to book your next jewellery appointment, here are a few irresistible reasons to treat yourself.

by Hirshi Sujanti

Grecian Glamour: The Designers Preparing to Spotlight Greek Style at JCK Las Vegas

Recently, I was approached by the organisers of a special ‘Greek mission’ who are supporting 11 independent designers and brands as they seek to make their mark at JCK Las Vegas from June 6-9, 2025. Below, I would like to introduce you to each of the businesses participating in this incredible showcase of Greek design, ingenuity and craftsmanship.

by Katerina Perez

Naked Attraction: The Best High Jewellery of the 2025 Cannes Film Festival 

Here’s a rundown of some of the best Cannes jewellery looks from the 78th annual festival (May 13-24), including the likes of Dakota Johnson, Angelina Jolie, and Natalie Portman, who all make striking jewellery the star of their ensembles

by Sarah Jordan

In Conversation: Discussing Paraiba — The Legacy of a Color with Vogue Singapore

The conversation encouraged both myself and Kevin Ferreira, my co-author, to recall exactly why we wrote Paraiba: The Legacy of a Color, and I am pleased to share more with you below

by Katerina Perez

Semi-Precious vs Precious Gemstones: Why the Old Labels No Longer Work

I can’t count the number of times I’ve asked myself: what really sets so-called precious and semi-precious stonesapart? Is it their rarity? Colour? Durability? Value? Or is it simply tradition—an outdated hierarchy we’ve inherited without question

by Katerina Perez

Larger than Life: New Mineral Masterpieces and Global Adventures with Margot McKinney 

Let’s take a closer look at the pieces and places that have helped to shape the Margot McKinney brand over the last 12 months, including the rather sensational Marina, Aurora and Bloem necklaces

by Katerina Perez

Male Adornment: The Evolution of Men’s Jewellery from the 1400s Until Today

Men's jewellery is often overlooked, yet its history is both rich and cyclical. Over the past six centuries, the popularity of male adornments has fluctuated, reflecting shifts in fashion, status, and cultural values. Here, Amanda Triossi examines the reasons behind male jewellery, along with its periods of abundance and decline.

by Amanda Triossi

Perfect Proposal: The Top 10 Engagement Ring Mistakes to Avoid 

The moment you start thinking about proposing, everything shifts. Ordinary things become significant: dinner out, a walk in the park, a glance at their jewellery box. And then comes "the ring": a symbol of love, yes, but also a silent spokesperson for everything you feel and hope for. No pressure, right?

by Claire Roberts

Couture Show 2025: The Top 10 Debutants Heading to Las Vegas 

The much anticipated Couture Show will return to Wynn Las Vegas from June 4-8, 2025, shining a spotlight on established design talent, new creatives, and international brands that are vying for attention on the global stage. Just like in previous years, I am focusing my attention on the debutants

by Katerina Perez

Designing the Future: Revealing the Winners of the Katerina Perez x Osmium Institute Design Contest

What a ride it has been, witnessing such pure creative energy and original thinking, especially with a material as rare and futuristic as osmium

by Katerina Perez

Latest Stories

Add articles and images to your favourites. Just

Legacy of Love:The Dreamlike Jewels of Emirati Designer Mariyeh Ghelichkhani

During our meeting in Dubai, we spoke about the importance of family, the sweetness of finding joy through creativity, and the ability to translate dreamy visions and deep feelings into wearable pieces…

by Katerina Perez

Jewels Katerina Perez Loves

Continue Reading

Writing Adventures:Co-Authoring the Book

Paraiba: The Legacy of a Color

by Katerina Perez

Jewellery Insights straight to your inbox

Style Guide

By using this website, you agree to the storing of cookies on your device to enhance site navigation, analyze site usage, and assist in our marketing efforts. View our Privacy Policy for more information.