Jewellery Horoscope: the Signs of the Zodiac as Interpreted in Jewellery

With the arrival of New Year, we look back at the year gone by and make plans for the future; different countries have different signs, rituals and traditions when it comes to this particular holiday, however there is one that is common in most countries – the horoscope. Everyone has read their horoscope at least once in their life, turning to the wisdom of the heavens and crossing their fingers in the hope that things are going to take a turn for the better, and a number of jewellery houses have followed our example, meaning zodiac jewellery turned into a trend. So, here is the overview of the most prominent collections…


Dior’s own astrological jewellery forecast, Tell Me Dior, was made in 2013. Charming miniature jewellery made with gold, white pearls and diamonds caused much excitement thanks to its diminutive size. Finding one of these underneath the Christmas tree would be a pretty good start to the year!


Avakian’s designers chose to represent the signs of the zodiac through their corresponding constellations in their bracelet of the same name. Their version is made from white and rose gold with diamond pavé, with rubies and emeralds for stars. The bracelet is worn on the wrist, completed by a satin ribbon fastening.


The twelve animals of the zodiac that make up the twelve-year cycle in the Chinese calendar have been recreated in charm form by Paloma Picasso for Tiffany & Co. The original designs made from 18 karat gold and round diamonds mean the Chinese Zodiac collection is guaranteed to catch the eye.


Cartier was one of the first jewellers who dedicated its 12 Zodiac Constellation collection to the astrological signs. The jewellery line came out in 2011 and featured cocktail rings with pink sapphires, pearls and diamonds.


The signs of the zodiac each have their own stone, the basis for designer and gemmologist Lydia Courteille’s project, The 13th Sign of the Zodiac. The set consists of a ring and corresponding earrings made up of the following stones: turquoise tourmaline, pearl coloured rock crystal, sapphire, moonstone, chysolite, rhodochrosite, multi-coloured granite, ruby and diamond… She has called her 13th sign of the zodiac ‘Serpentarius’, a snake studded with black and white diamonds, green tsavorites and scarlet rubies, encircling a moonstone on a black gold ring.


Solange Azagury-Partridges’s Zodiac is perhaps one of the most varied collections to explore the zodiac and everything connected to it. The rings and necklaces have been decorated variously with the symbol or corresponding animal for each zodiac sign, beautifully realised, or the animals for each year in the Chinese calendar. Made from red and white gold with diamonds and other precious stones and coated with either a clear or coloured lacquer…this collection really does have a piece of jewellery to suit any taste.


Jewellery house Van Cleef & Arpels first started exploring the theme of the zodiac signs in the 1950s, designing gold medallions which remained popular right through to the 1980s. The designers later revisited the theme, but it was in 2012 that they really realised it in high art jewellery form with their Zodiac Set collection, featuring a brooch and necklace decorated with extremely precious stones, making it a gift fit for a king!


In touch with the stars is one of the first collections from new jewellery brand Jazychic. Designer Jasmin Djahanchahi has recreated twelve bejewelled pendants that depict certain types of character typical for astrological signs. She associated her creation with unforgettable people she has met and reflected their common traits in a series of gold, diamonds, turquoise, aquamarine and sapphire pendants.


This particular jewellery house puts a lot of focus on ensuring the process of jewellery production is environmentally friendly, helping to preserve the environment for future generations. Thee Wild’s signs of the zodiac (available exclusively at Les Facettes, Geneva) come in the form of silver cufflinks encrusted with natural quartz and a variety of precious stones including rubies, emeralds, white and blue sapphires. KP