Top 10 Jewels: JUNWEX St Petersburg 2015

February 18, 2015

By Katerina Perez

4 min read

Between 4th and 8th February the Junwex annual jewellery exhibition took place in St Petersburg. I visited it for the first time to find out about the latest work by tsome Russian designers and companies, and as usual I have selected ten of the best pieces to write about here.

Before we get on to talking about the best of the jewellery, I want to tell you a bit about the exhibition itself. It took place in the new Expoforum building, which held the event as part of its efforts to get itself on a level with the scale of the big European shows and open up the event space to more exhibitors. The exhibition complex itself is very large so the organisers of Junwex split the room into three halls. In the first hall a number of big companies set up closed-off salons; in number two private jewellery studios displayed their work, along with brands who have points of sales around Russia; and the third hall taken up by independent designers and small businesses whose jewellery was of interest to individual customers rather than wholesale buyers.

The new Expoforum building

The new Expoforum building

 The new Expoforum building

The new Expoforum building

The exhibition itself was frequented not just by people directly connected with the industry but also by jewellery aficionados interested in making individual purchases. On the 7th and 8th they took the stalls by storm, desperate to get their hands on something they liked.

GEVORKYAN

The first piece of jewellery to be included in the TOP10 is the Gevorkyan ring from the Symphony of Colour collection with a luscious 3.5 carat green tourmaline.

GEVORKYAN

SARKISIAN

The Sarkisian ring also owes its place on this list to a tourmaline, but this one has a polychrome stone. I liked that the body of the cocktail ring is decorated with multi-coloured sapphires that mirror the changes in colour on the central stone.

SARKISIAN

AMBER KOSTROMA

I just couldn’t leave out the third piece on the list, even if it is technically artwork rather than jewellery. Each one of the silver figures on the Battle on Ice chessboard has been crafted with precision and carries a nominal reference to Russian history. It is hardly surprising that that Amber Kostroma’s chessboard took first prize at the Junwex awards last year.

AMBER KOSTROMA

IGOR ORLOV

Practically all of Igor Orlov’s work is sculptural – it is very much his forte. A jewel for him – the Dragon ring that features a 1.37 carat ruby, forms part of his Different People collection, which represents the seven different types of man. Igor earns his place in the top ten through his interesting idea, complex design and beautiful execution.

IGOR ORLOV

SHAPE AND FORM JEWELLERY SCHOOL

The thing that made me choose the Small Business necklace, made out of bronze and brass by Andrei an Anna Zuev, students at the jewellery school of Shape and Form, was its humour. The smile that lit up my face when I first laid eyes on this amusing little sheep design would be worth any number of diamonds.

SHAPE AND FORM JEWELLERY SCHOOL

SASONKO

A pair of gold earrings with enamel, tourmaline and diamonds from the collection Scenes from the Russian Ballet by Sasonko just had to be a favourite. Light and fine, they perfectly match the theme, and their geometric decorative enamel element call to mind a pair of ballerinas.

SASONKO

MARK BALDIN

Mark Baldin is one of few jewellers in Russia to work with titanium. Titanium is a metal which is very difficult to work with, so the carefully realised patterns on the wings and body of the insects demonstrate the designer’s outstanding technical skill. You could say that the Ladybird brooch is a refined interpretation of the Steampunk trend.

MARK BALDIN

A.R.T. COLLECTION

Practically all of the A.R.T Collection from Yekaterinburg stand was taken up by statuettes skilfully cut from ornamental stones. A few pieces of jewellery quietly stood out from the rest, one of which, a medusa with a 12.35 carat star sapphire, it would be hard not to include in the top ten. This piece combined a rare precious stone, an original idea and excellent craftsmanship.

A.R.T. COLLECTION

CHRYSOS

The designer brand Chrysos have had the interesting idea of making a pair of rings: Mars and Venus. The ring for her, made with a magnificent Ethiopian opal, beautifully complements the Australian analogue of the man’s ring. Symbols of the origin of man and woman have been woven into the ring’s complex design of the shank. Mars and Venus designs are featured on the cover of the box which was specially made to store both rings at once.

CHRYSOS

MOUSSON ATELIER

It was very hard to choose one favourite from the Mousson Atelier stand: they were all so different and beautiful in their own way. In the end, the winner as far as the list is concerned was a brooch studded with diamonds and sapphires. The veining all looked very natural and the transition of colour between the precious stones created the illusion that you are holding in your hands an autumn leaf freshly fallen from the tree.

MOUSSON ATELIER

The ten pieces of jewellery which I have talked about here are by no means the only ones worthy of note. In picking my favourites I have tried to convey the sheer variety of the jewellery and art on offer, created by masters of the industry from all over Russia.

Up In the Air: Arman Suciyan’s Crane Ring

continue reading

Haute Couture 2025: Boucheron Explores Shades of Grey with the Impermanence High Jewellery Collection 

With its Carte Blanche High Jewellery collections, Boucheron's Creative Director Claire Choisne has the power to explore whatever fantastical avenue she pleases, which in 2025 centres on flowers and the natural world.

by Sarah Jordan

Haute Couture 2025: The Unconventional Lines of the Vhernier Ardis High Jewellery Collection 

Let's take a closer look at the pieces that launched at Paris Haute Couture week, including the sculptural necklaces we simply couldn't leave without photographing.

by Sarah Jordan

Haute Couture 2025: The 70s Depths of the Piaget Shapes of Extraleganza High Jewellery Collection

Through the Piaget Society, a circle of artists, collectors and freethinkers, the Maison helped shape the cultural zeitgeist of the 1970s.

by Claire Roberts

Haute Couture Week 2025: The Gentle Flutter of Mikimoto Les Pétales High Jewellery

Let’s take a closer look at some of the aristocratic highlights of this latest Mikimoto offering…

by Sarah Jordan

Elevated Expression: Examining The Jade Dynasty Collection by Austy Lee

Austy Lee is someone we return to time and again here at KaterinaPerez.com, largely because the designer's work never fails to impress. Let's hear what he has to say on China's most emblematic mineral…

by Sarah Jordan

Haute Couture 2025: The Biggest High Jewellery Trends to Emerge from Paris 

Transformability was a recurring theme, as were bold uses of colour, sculptural silhouettes and rare gemstones with compelling stories. Here are the key trends that defined the 2025 high jewellery season.

by Joshua Hendren

Flower Power: The Uplifting Energy of Jewels in Full Bloom 

Florals have long been a favourite in fine jewellery, and they never lose their charm. This year’s Couture show in Las Vegas proved just how inventive floral jewellery can be, bursting with colour, craftsmanship, and imagination

by Hirshi Sujanti

You’ve Got the Moves: Kinetic Jewellery with Moving Elements

Sometimes, at the Couture Show, you encounter a trend that feels perfectly attuned to the times we’re living in. This year in Las Vegas, that trend was movement. Or, more precisely, moving elements that speak to that very human desire to keep our hands busy, our senses engaged, and our minds soothed.

by Claire Roberts

Verified in Vegas: The Biggest Jewellery Trends of the Couture Show 2025

The Couture Show presents a curated view of the best in craftsmanship, design, fresh ideas and originality, which is why it’s such a vital place to forecast the ‘next big thing’. Here’s what I have gleaned from this year’s State-side events

by Sarah Jordan

Instant Charm: Celebrating New Creations with Karina Choudhrie Jewels

Let's take a closer look at the latest pieces that have emerged from Karina's incredible imagination…

by Katerina Perez

Key Facts About Gold: An Ancient Symbol of Power and Luxury

In an age where digital currencies rise and fall, gold remains a universal symbol of stability, beauty, and lasting worth. It is worn on the skin, locked in vaults, and passed down through generations as a living legacy.

by Hirshi Sujanti

Little Legends: The History and Power of Pinky Rings

Pinky rings have long carried cultural weight - from Ancient Mesopotamian seals to Egyptian signets and Japanese kamon heirlooms. Today, the style is experiencing a resurgence, thanks to contemporary designers and a growing list of high-profile wearers, including Meghan Markle, Bruno Mars, Rihanna, Victoria Beckham, Bella Hadid and Emily Ratajkowski

by Joshua Hendren

Latest Stories

Add articles and images to your favourites. Just

Epic Evolution:Miseno Launches the Arco Collection to Celebrate a Fabulous Decade

I am pleased to present to you my highlights of the new Arco High Jewellery collection, which was formally showcased to the jewellery world at Couture from June 4-8, 2025

by Katerina Perez

Jewels Katerina Perez Loves

Continue Reading

In Conversation:Discussing Paraiba - The Legacy of a Color

with Vogue Singapore

by Katerina Perez

Jewellery Insights straight to your inbox

Style Guide

By using this website, you agree to the storing of cookies on your device to enhance site navigation, analyze site usage, and assist in our marketing efforts. View our Privacy Policy for more information.