TOP 10 Jewels: Masterpiece London Highlights

July 16, 2016

By Katerina Perez

3 min read

Nazy Vassegh, CEO of Masterpiece London, the leading art and antiques fair, says, “Masterpiece draws your eyes to things you may not otherwise see.” And this is true, since many participants in this years exhibition (the seventh consecutive exhibition since the fair began) came from countries around the world, and getting to know their collectible pieces of art, interior décor and furniture, clocks and jewellery, is only possible Masterpiece London.

Among 154 participants were 16 jewellers specialising in contemporary creations as well as antiques. Despite most of them having a boutique or a showroom in the UK capital, some of the exhibitors came to Masterpiece from afar: Hemmerle from Germany, Wallace Chan from Hong Kong, Verdura and Belperron from America. These jewellers’ High Jewellery items are unique collectibles that excite the jewellery world. Christian Hemmerle, for example, surprised visitors with diamond earrings in the shape of flowers, made from aluminium, a metal not previously used in this way to create jewellery.

Necklace by Olga Tritt with aquamarines and diamonds, New York Circa 1939. Available at Wartski

Necklace by Olga Tritt with aquamarines and diamonds, New York Circa 1939. Available at Wartski

Wallace Chance immediately introduced some unbelievable products made from titanium, which not only embodied intriguing designs but also encapsulated the philosophy of Chinese maestro. And Verdura and Belperron were able to “touch history”, selling original jewellery made by legendary 20th-century jewellery designers Fulco di Verdura and Suzanne Belperron.

As far as contemporary designers are concerned, it was impossible to ignore the work of Geneva-based jewellery house Boghossian, the exclusive designer Michelle Ong from Hong Kong and the Italian, Sabba, whom many consider to be the protégé of JAR (the last two being presented as part of the Symbolic&Chase collection).

Boghossian earrings with yellow and white diamonds. The pear shaped diamond is 7cts and the marquise is 4cts

Boghossian earrings with yellow and white diamonds. The pear shaped diamond is 7cts and the marquise is 4cts

One of Boghossian’s earrings were made in the signature style of Toi&Moi, which means that both pieces has similar design or shared the same theme, though did not look identical. In the same vein were earrings made with yellow diamonds, one in the marquise shape weighing almost 4 carats and the other shaped like a droplet, at 7 carats. The pieces resembled the extraordinary verdure of the Garden of Eden: the right earring was a kind of fantastical fruit, and the left an exotic flower.

Michelle Ong introduced 4 new jewels, among which I have personally singled out a beautiful fish-shaped brooch. On the fish’s head flashes an unheated Burmese ruby of 5.36-carat, and on its body are pink sapphires and diamonds. Several display windows apart were the Sabba earrings with saltwater pearls and diamonds gathered together like a fan. Their alternative design looked tremendously stylish, and in spite of their rather large size the earrings were lightweight and comfortable.

Natural saltwater pearl and diamonds fan-shaped earrings by Sabba. Available at Symbolic&Chase

Natural saltwater pearl and diamonds fan-shaped earrings by Sabba. Available at Symbolic&Chase

 Hemmerle Al Project aluminium earrings with diamonds

Hemmerle Al Project aluminium earrings with diamonds

 Van Cleef&Arpels Papillon Mystérieux Clip – vitrail mystery setting brooch

Van Cleef&Arpels Papillon Mystérieux Clip – vitrail mystery setting brooch

 Michelle Ong diamond and pink sapphire fish brooch with 5.36 cts unheated Burmese ruby. Available at Symbolic&Chase

Michelle Ong diamond and pink sapphire fish brooch with 5.36 cts unheated Burmese ruby. Available at Symbolic&Chase

 Verdura gold rope and Ceylon sapphire Wrapped Heart brooch

Verdura gold rope and Ceylon sapphire Wrapped Heart brooch

 Wallace Chan Apsara brooch crafted in titanium with yellow diamond

Wallace Chan Apsara brooch crafted in titanium with yellow diamond

 Left – Belperron ‘Spire’ bracelet with yellow gold and diamonds, circa 1950, Right: Aquamarine and ruby ‘Double coronet’ bracelet, circa 1950

Left – Belperron ‘Spire’ bracelet with yellow gold and diamonds, circa 1950, Right: Aquamarine and ruby ‘Double coronet’ bracelet, circa 1950

Of course, these are not the only pieces of jewellery at Masterpiece worthy of attention, it is just impossible to fit them all in one article, but you will see a few more in the selection below.

5 Must-Have Summer 2016 Jewels:

continue reading

Exceptional Splendour: Jaipur Gems Celebrates 50 Years with Abu Dhabi Opening and New High Jewels 

Let me take you on a behind-the-scenes tour of the new Abu Dhabi boutique and share some of my sparkling highlights

by Katerina Perez

Radiating Confidence: The Mother-Daughter Energy Behind Growing Brand Aponine

As one of this year’s Couture show debutants, Turkish brand Aponine impressed me with its blend of colourful creativity, timeless elegance, and stylish femininity. Let’s take a closer look…

by Katerina Perez

Sensual Silhouettes: Jewels with Curves in All the Right Places

Is it getting hot in here, or is it just us? As jewellers swap sharp lines for shapely swirls, we look at new collections that are embracing the raw power of sensuality inspired by the female form

by Rachael Taylor

Artistic Realms: The Enchanting Natural World of Histoire D’Elle

I had the pleasure of speaking with Pascale Van Maele, the Brand Manager of Histoire d'Elle, which celebrates the deep-rooted connection between quiet femininity, elegance and natural forms. Let's explore together…

by Sarah Jordan

Spinel Stories: Celebrating the Special Allure of Spinels with the House of Gübelin 

I visited the Geneva boutique of the family-owned business to indulge my passion for this overlooked gemstone and explore some of its beautiful creations…

by Katerina Perez

Golden Hour: Cosmic Creations in the Chanel Reach for the Stars High Jewellery Collection

The Reach for the Stars collection bounces between cosmic constellations of diamonds, elaborate, almost mythological neckwear, and starbursts of coloured stones, all with the Maison’s Parisian flair

by Sarah Jordan

Ultimate Guide to Promise Rings: What They Mean, How to Wear One and Where to Buy

While the promise ring's meaning has evolved, its emotional weight remains, making it especially popular among Gen Z and millennial couples seeking the perfect, personal pre-engagement jewel

by Claire Roberts

Exquisite Escapes: The Idyllic Inspirations Behind the Diorexquis High Jewellery Collection

In early May 2025, Dior Joaillerie's Artistic Director Victoire de Castellane showcased an unprecedented high jewellery collection, Diorexquis, to more than 300 VIPs at the Château de la Colle Noire in the heart of Provence. Let's take a closer look…

by Katerina Perez

Millionaire Products: Celebrating the No-Expense-Spared Bvlgari Polychroma High Jewellery Collection

Bvlgari is opening a magnificent new chapter in the world of high jewellery, and high jewellery watches with the Polychroma collection. Here's what I have discovered so far…

by Katerina Perez

Sea of Wonder: Celebrating the Ocean’s Endless Bounty with the Tiffany & Co. Blue Book 2025

Here are some of the creations that became an integral part of the Tiffany & Co. underwater world, including starfish, crashing waves and sea turtles…

by Katerina Perez

The Psychology of Jewellery: Why We Adorn Ourselves

From the earliest civilisations to contemporary fashion catwalks, humans have consistently sought ways to embellish themselves. Transcending mere decoration, jewellery acts as a powerful expression of identity, status and emotion. Whether it's the intricate beadwork of ancient societies or the minimalist designs of modern artisans, our choices in adornment reveal layers of personal and cultural narratives. 

by Claire Roberts

Gem Renaissance: Insights from GemGenève Talk on Coloured Gemstones

One of the most exciting shifts in the world of fine jewellery today is the growing appreciation for coloured gemstones, especially those beyond the traditional “Big Three” of rubies, sapphires, and emeralds. So, when the organisers of GemGenève invited me to do a talk, I instantly knew what subject I was going to touch upon - the rise of colour.

by Katerina Perez

Latest Stories

Add articles and images to your favourites. Just

Legacy of Love:The Dreamlike Jewels of Emirati Designer Mariyeh Ghelichkhani

During our meeting in Dubai, we spoke about the importance of family, the sweetness of finding joy through creativity, and the ability to translate dreamy visions and deep feelings into wearable pieces…

by Katerina Perez

Jewels Katerina Perez Loves

Continue Reading

Writing Adventures:Co-Authoring the Book

Paraiba: The Legacy of a Color

by Katerina Perez

Jewellery Insights straight to your inbox

Style Guide

By using this website, you agree to the storing of cookies on your device to enhance site navigation, analyze site usage, and assist in our marketing efforts. View our Privacy Policy for more information.