Club
Birthstone jewellery: Sumptuous rubies celebrate July
Known as the ‘King of Gems’, the ruby is one of the most revered and commonly known gemstones; in the ancient language of Sanskrit, ruby is called ratnaraj, or “king of precious stones.”
Owing to the rarity of the perfect ruby tone – pigeon blood: a deep, rich red with the slightest hint of blue – the most sought after rubies are worth more per carat than diamonds. The standard for exceptional rubies is Burmese provenance, with no heat treatment – which would alter the saturation of colour in the gemstone. Beautiful rubies from other sources still command large sums if their colour and clarity is of high quality, but rubies mined in the Mogok valley tend to be considered as having the most supreme visual characteristics of all, with this country having been a ruby source since at least 600 AD.
Fabergé 'Three Colours of Love' rings, both with rubies in rose gold
FORMS ring with pigeon blood Burmese ruby and triangular shaped diamonds in white gold
Because of its popularity and widespread appeal of ruby through the ages, ruby is one of the most historically significant coloured gemstones – being mentioned four times in the Bible. Over centuries, numerous attributes have been attached to rubies: ancient Hindus believed offering rubies to the god Krishna meant that you were granted rebirth as an emperor; in India, people believed that rubies enabled their owners to live in peace with their enemies; in Burma (now Myanmar,) warriors believed rubies made them invincible in battle. Later in world history, ruby continued to be regarded by the Western world as important, becoming one of the most desirable gems for European royalty and those in high standing – with many medieval Europeans wearing rubies in an attempt to guarantee health, wealth, wisdom, and success in love.
Gübelin ‘Wings of a Dragonfly’ transformable necklace with 10.64ct Burmese ruby and 13 cushion cut diamonds, 43 fancy cut diamonds and 1788 round brilliant cut diamonds totalling 19.49ct
Ruby is one of the ‘big three’ traditionally recognised precious gemstones, alongside emerald and sapphire. The result of this is that almost every single fine jewellery house has created at least one – of not many ruby designs within the canon of collections. The most famous luxury maisons in particular – such as Van Cleef & Arpels, Bulgari, Chopard, Dior, and Chanel – always include a ruby piece within their latest lines; especially the most glamorous, red carpet ready creations…
Anna Hu
Anna Hu
'Le Papillon' ring with central ruby and diamonds in white gold
Bulgari
Bulgari
'Cinemagia' collection necklace with rubies and diamonds in white gold
Chopard
Chopard
'Magical Setting' collection ring with diamonds and rubies in white gold
Adler
Adler
'Palais des Vents' ring with oval ruby and diamonds in white gold
Picchiotti
Picchiotti
'Special Gem' earrings with Burmese rubies and diamonds in white gold
Boodles
Boodles
‘Wonderland – Always a Story’ collection 'Parakeet & Pomegranate' earrings with 12.92ct rubies, diamonds and rock crystal in platinum and rose gold
Fabergé
Fabergé
'Three Colours of Love' ring with 2.30ct ruby and accenting rubies and diamond in rose gold
Chanel
Chanel
'Code Coco' collection watch with 62.81ct rubies and diamonds in white gold
Bina Goenka
Bina Goenka
'Hibiscus' necklace with rubies and emeralds in yellow gold
Maximilian
Maximilian
Ring with Burmese pigeon's blood ruby and diamonds in white gold
Lydia Courteille
Lydia Courteille
'Scarlett Empress' collection earrings with rubies and white jade in titanium
Hartmann's
Hartmann's
Earrings with Greenland ruby and diamonds in white gold
REZA
REZA
'Grappes' earrings with rubies and diamonds in yellow gold
Gübelin
Gübelin
'Red Dahlia' ring with oval cut 2.18ct Burmese ruby, trillion cut sapphires and brilliant cut diamonds in rose gold
Gübelin
Gübelin
'Glowing Ember' necklace with 3.54ct Burmese ruby, accenting ruby and diamonds in white gold
Boghossian
Boghossian
'Les Merveilles' reversible necklace with 24.94ct rubies and diamonds in white gold
Graff
Graff
'Nuage' bracelet with 5.04ct central Burmese rubies, 31.19ct accenting rubies and diamonds in white gold
Faidee
Faidee
Ring with Burmese pigeon's blood ruby and diamonds in white gold
Dior
Dior
'Gem Dior' ring with rubies in yellow gold
David Morris
David Morris
Chandelier earrings with rubies and diamonds in white gold
Garrard
Garrard
'Jewelled Vault' ring with total of 4.55ct rubies and diamonds in white gold
Cindy Chao
Cindy Chao
‘Peony’ brooch with 2,458 rubies totalling appox. 230ct in titanium
Verdura
Verdura
'Wrapped Heart' brooch with cabochon rubies and diamonds in yellow gold and platinum
Van Cleef&Arpels
Van Cleef&Arpels
'Romeo and Juliet' collection 'Filtro d'Amore' ring with 3.89ct central ruby, accenting rubies and diamonds in white gold
Stenzhorn
Stenzhorn
'Floral' collection pendant with rubies, diamonds and emeralds in white gold
Graff
Graff
'Carissa' necklace with rubies and diamonds in white gold
David Michael
David Michael
'Ruby rose' ring with rubies and diamonds in platinum
REZA
REZA
'La Chose Troidia' ring with ruby and diamonds in yellow gold
Nina Runsdorf
Nina Runsdorf
Earrings with rubies and diamonds in white gold
WORDS
Jodie Smith is a San Francisco based writer, trend forecaster and creative consultant specialising in the jewellery and luxury industries.
Related Articles
The Psychology of Jewellery: Why We Adorn Ourselves
From the earliest civilisations to contemporary fashion catwalks, humans have consistently sought ways to embellish themselves. Transcending mere decoration, jewellery acts as a powerful expression of identity, status and emotion. Whether it's the intricate beadwork of ancient societies or the minimalist designs of modern artisans, our choices in adornment reveal layers of personal and cultural narratives.
Gem Renaissance: Insights from GemGenève Talk on Coloured Gemstones
One of the most exciting shifts in the world of fine jewellery today is the growing appreciation for coloured gemstones, especially those beyond the traditional “Big Three” of rubies, sapphires, and emeralds. So, when the organisers of GemGenève invited me to do a talk, I instantly knew what subject I was going to touch upon - the rise of colour.
Epic Evolution: Miseno Launches the Arco Collection to Celebrate a Fabulous Decade
Miseno is a brand that I have followed closely over the past decade, largely because of its intriguing transatlantic flair that blends Italian heritage and craftsmanship with the pizzazz of New York City. Now, I am pleased to present to you my highlights of the new Arco High Jewellery collection.
A Dazzling Decade: Celebrating the 10th Anniversary of Yi Collection
Since celebrating the 10-year anniversary of KaterinaPerez.com in 2023, I will admit to having a newfound appreciation and respect for any fellow business owner who reaches this incredible milestone. It’s certainly not easy to maintain high levels of creativity and craftsmanship, especially with a consistent focus on quality and professionalism.
Wow Effect: Exploring the Inventive Artistry of Serafino Consoli
While doing my duties as a judge at the 2025 Inhorgenta Awards, I had the pleasure of being introduced to the team behind Serafino Consoli – an Italian brand with a unique claim to fame in the high jewellery world.
Essential Passion: The Artistic Pursuits of Mehragin Rahmati of Mergin Jewelry
Jewellery can be thoughtful and insular, or it can be effusive and bold and full of character that makes it stand out from the crowd. I would put the colourful and charismatic creations of Mehragin Rahmati into the latter camp because of their attention-grabbing silhouettes, unusual structures, and confident mineral palettes.
Maestro of Masterpieces: New High Jewels in the Picchiotti Classics Collection
Ahead of this year’s Couture show in Las Vegas, Picchiotti has revealed some of the latest additions to its high jewellery repertoire, including new suites in the Picchiotti Classics collection.
Reasons to Shop: The Moments that Demand a Fresh Jewellery Purchase
There's no rule that says you need a reason to buy a new piece of jewellery, but sometimes, a little encouragement makes the decision even more exciting. If you're looking for a playful excuse to book your next jewellery appointment, here are a few irresistible reasons to treat yourself.
Grecian Glamour: The Designers Preparing to Spotlight Greek Style at JCK Las Vegas
Recently, I was approached by the organisers of a special ‘Greek mission’ who are supporting 11 independent designers and brands as they seek to make their mark at JCK Las Vegas from June 6-9, 2025. Below, I would like to introduce you to each of the businesses participating in this incredible showcase of Greek design, ingenuity and craftsmanship.
Naked Attraction: The Best High Jewellery of the 2025 Cannes Film Festival
Here’s a rundown of some of the best Cannes jewellery looks from the 78th annual festival (May 13-24), including the likes of Dakota Johnson, Angelina Jolie, and Natalie Portman, who all make striking jewellery the star of their ensembles
In Conversation: Discussing Paraiba — The Legacy of a Color with Vogue Singapore
The conversation encouraged both myself and Kevin Ferreira, my co-author, to recall exactly why we wrote Paraiba: The Legacy of a Color, and I am pleased to share more with you below
Semi-Precious vs Precious Gemstones: Why the Old Labels No Longer Work
I can’t count the number of times I’ve asked myself: what really sets so-called precious and semi-precious stonesapart? Is it their rarity? Colour? Durability? Value? Or is it simply tradition—an outdated hierarchy we’ve inherited without question
Latest Stories
Club
Add articles and images to your favourites. Just
Legacy of Love:The Dreamlike Jewels of Emirati Designer Mariyeh Ghelichkhani
During our meeting in Dubai, we spoke about the importance of family, the sweetness of finding joy through creativity, and the ability to translate dreamy visions and deep feelings into wearable pieces…
Jewels Katerina Perez Loves
Continue Reading
Club
Club
Writing Adventures:Co-Authoring the Book
Paraiba: The Legacy of a Color
Brand Focus: Chopard
Jewellery Insights straight to your inbox
Style Guide
Club
Club
Club
Club
