Dior Rose: Six Chapters of High Jewellery Devoted To This Classic Bloom

August 2, 2021

By Katerina Perez

9 min read

In March 2021, Victoire de Castellane unveiled RoseDior, a high jewellery collection of incredibly life-like pieces inspired by the rose, Monsieur Dior’s favourite flower. Echoing the natural ability of this plant to bloom twice a year, in both the spring and the summer, Victoire de Castellane has started the warmest season by presenting a new collection of 116 precious novelties dedicated to the bloom: Dior Rose.

This new high jewellery collection continues, but in no way repeats, the winter collection RoseDior. Instead, it is dedicated to the historical heritage of Monsieur Dior and offers a complete renewal and transformation of some of the Maison’s most iconic ‘calling cards’, alongside the revival of the Dior boutique at 30 Avenue Montaigne. Models showcasing dresses from Dior’s collections have descended the stairs of this historic building since 1947, and an advertisement for one of the brand’s fragrances was filmed here… now there will be a roof garden and an exhibition gallery.

Dior Rose Rose Mantique Sapphire ring in white and yellow gold, diamonds, sapphires, purple sapphires, rhodolite garnets, amethysts, tsavorite garnets, Paraiba-type tourmalines, demantoid garnets and emeralds

Dior Rose Rose Mantique Sapphire ring in white and yellow gold, diamonds, sapphires, purple sapphires, rhodolite garnets, amethysts, tsavorite garnets, Paraiba-type tourmalines, demantoid garnets and emeralds

 Dior Rose Rose Mantique Sapphire necklace in white and yellow gold, diamonds, sapphires, purple sapphires, rhodolite, garnets, amethysts, tsavorite garnets, paraiba-type tourmalines, demantoid garnets and emeralds

Dior Rose Rose Mantique Sapphire necklace in white and yellow gold, diamonds, sapphires, purple sapphires, rhodolite, garnets, amethysts, tsavorite garnets, paraiba-type tourmalines, demantoid garnets and emeralds

 Dior Rose Rose Mantique Sapphire earrings in white and yellow gold, diamonds, sapphires, purple sapphires, rhodolite garnets, amethysts, tsavorite garnets, paraiba-type tourmalines, demantoid garnets and emeralds

Dior Rose Rose Mantique Sapphire earrings in white and yellow gold, diamonds, sapphires, purple sapphires, rhodolite garnets, amethysts, tsavorite garnets, paraiba-type tourmalines, demantoid garnets and emeralds

 Dior Rose Rose Mantique Diamond earrings in white gold, diamonds and green lacquer

Dior Rose Rose Mantique Diamond earrings in white gold, diamonds and green lacquer

 Dior Rose Rose Mantique Diamond necklace in white gold, diamonds, pink and green lacquer

Dior Rose Rose Mantique Diamond necklace in white gold, diamonds, pink and green lacquer

 Dior Rose Rose Mantique Diamond ring in white gold, diamonds, pink and green lacquer

Dior Rose Rose Mantique Diamond ring in white gold, diamonds, pink and green lacquer

 Dior Rose Rose Mantique Pink Sapphire necklace in white and pink gold, diamonds, purple garnets and pink sapphires

Dior Rose Rose Mantique Pink Sapphire necklace in white and pink gold, diamonds, purple garnets and pink sapphires

 Dior Rose Rose Mantique Pink Sapphire earrings in white and pink gold, diamonds, purple garnets and pink sapphires

Dior Rose Rose Mantique Pink Sapphire earrings in white and pink gold, diamonds, purple garnets and pink sapphires

 Dior Rose Rose Mantique Pink Sapphire ring in white and pink gold, diamonds, purple garnets and pink sapphires

Dior Rose Rose Mantique Pink Sapphire ring in white and pink gold, diamonds, purple garnets and pink sapphires

This global reconstruction inspired Victoire de Castellane, creative director of Dior’s fine jewellery division for over 20 years, to create a whole “Dior world” in which romantic roses, stained-glass roses, futuristic roses and abstract haute couture roses luxuriantly and harmoniously coexist. Taking a closer look at the collection, we can distinguish 6 ‘chapters’, each of which presents the rose in its own way: Couture, Couture Abstraite, Vitrail, Futuriste, Gem Dior and Rose Mantique.

Dior Rose Rose Mantique Pink Sapphire High Jewellery timepiece in pink and white gold, diamonds, purple garnets and pink sapphires

Dior Rose Rose Mantique Pink Sapphire High Jewellery timepiece in pink and white gold, diamonds, purple garnets and pink sapphires

In its most romantic imaginings, the rose is the closest to the image that nature itself created. The Rose Mantique parure, consisting of a necklace, earrings, bracelet and double ring, combines blue Myanmar sapphires, emeralds and diamonds. An angled emerald-cut diamond illuminates the necklace and ring, while faintly blossoming pink sapphire flowers with pistils ‘sit’ on the diamond sepals. I especially like the jewels with petals outlined in red and pink lacquer.

Dior Rose Rose Vitrail Ruby necklace in white and pink gold, platinum, diamonds, ruby, pink and sapphires and rubellites

Dior Rose Rose Vitrail Ruby necklace in white and pink gold, platinum, diamonds, ruby, pink and sapphires and rubellites

 Dior Rose Rose Vitrail Emerald ring in white and yellow gold, platinum, diamonds, emerald and tsavorite garnets

Dior Rose Rose Vitrail Emerald ring in white and yellow gold, platinum, diamonds, emerald and tsavorite garnets

 Dior Rose Rose Vitrail Emerald necklace in white and yellow gold, platinum, diamonds, emerald and tsavorite garnets

Dior Rose Rose Vitrail Emerald necklace in white and yellow gold, platinum, diamonds, emerald and tsavorite garnets

 Dior Rose Rose Vitrail Emerald earrings in white and yellow gold, platinum, diamonds, emerald and tsavorite garnets

Dior Rose Rose Vitrail Emerald earrings in white and yellow gold, platinum, diamonds, emerald and tsavorite garnets

In its stained-glass incarnation, the queen of flowers, as if made of coloured glass, is ‘dressed’ in harmonious gradients of green and red tones variously produced by velvety Colombian emeralds and Mozambican rubies. The transparency and permeability of light is fully ensured by baguette-cut diamonds and, of course, rose-cut ones too. 

Models wear Dior High Jewellery (Photographed by Yin Tam)

Models wear Dior High Jewellery (Photographed by Yin Tam)

And futuristic roses, as is typical of avant-garde art, are keen to surprise with their unusual shapes; like peering at a pixelated, very low-resolution photograph, we can only see the outlines. Opals, Zambian emeralds, lacquered ‘claws’, golden South Sea pearls, pink spinel and tsavorites – this precious arsenal is designed to complement each other in an original interpretation of the flower.

Dior Rose Rose Futuriste Black Opal Necklace in white and pink gold, diamonds, black opals, tsavorite garnets, sapphires, emeralds, purple, red, green and blue lacquer

Dior Rose Rose Futuriste Black Opal Necklace in white and pink gold, diamonds, black opals, tsavorite garnets, sapphires, emeralds, purple, red, green and blue lacquer

 Dior Rose Rose Futuriste Black Opal Ring in white and pink gold, diamonds, black opals, tsavorite garnets, sapphires, emeralds, purple, red, green and blue lacquer

Dior Rose Rose Futuriste Black Opal Ring in white and pink gold, diamonds, black opals, tsavorite garnets, sapphires, emeralds, purple, red, green and blue lacquer

 Creating the Rose Futuriste Black Opal suite, part of the Dior Rose High Jewellery Collection

Creating the Rose Futuriste Black Opal suite, part of the Dior Rose High Jewellery Collection

 Designing pieces in the Rose Futuriste line, which is part of the Dior Rose High Jewellery Collection

Designing pieces in the Rose Futuriste line, which is part of the Dior Rose High Jewellery Collection

 Dior Rose Rose Vitrail Emerald ring in white and yellow gold, platinum, diamonds, emerald and tsavorite garnets

Dior Rose Rose Vitrail Emerald ring in white and yellow gold, platinum, diamonds, emerald and tsavorite garnets

 Creating the Rose Vitrail Emerald necklace in white and yellow gold, platinum, diamonds, emerald and tsavorite garnets

Creating the Rose Vitrail Emerald necklace in white and yellow gold, platinum, diamonds, emerald and tsavorite garnets

 Dior Rose Rose Futuriste Emerald ring in yellow gold, diamonds, emeralds and green lacquer

Dior Rose Rose Futuriste Emerald ring in yellow gold, diamonds, emeralds and green lacquer

 Dior Rose Rose Futuriste White Pearl earrings in white gold, diamonds and white cultured pearls

Dior Rose Rose Futuriste White Pearl earrings in white gold, diamonds and white cultured pearls

 Dior Rose Rose Futuriste Black Opal earrings in white gold, diamonds, black opal and blue lacquer

Dior Rose Rose Futuriste Black Opal earrings in white gold, diamonds, black opal and blue lacquer

The abstract rose, enjoying the privileges of ‘haute couture’ status, appears in a more symbolic form. Sri Lankan sapphires, scarlet rubies and yellow diamonds that border the central stones could be easily mistaken for real petals. At the heart of the Dior Rose collection, incidentally, you can find many references to previous collections. For example, Victoire has added some diamond and sapphire jewellery made in the style of the earlier GemDior collection. 

Dior Rose Rose Couture Abstraite Ruby necklace in pink gold, diamonds, pink sapphires and rubies

Dior Rose Rose Couture Abstraite Ruby necklace in pink gold, diamonds, pink sapphires and rubies

 Dior Rose Rose Couture Abstraite Ruby earrings in pink gold, diamonds, pink sapphires and rubies

Dior Rose Rose Couture Abstraite Ruby earrings in pink gold, diamonds, pink sapphires and rubies

 Dior Rose Rose Couture Abstraite High Jewellery Timepiece in white gold, diamonds and sapphires

Dior Rose Rose Couture Abstraite High Jewellery Timepiece in white gold, diamonds and sapphires

 Dior Rose Rose Couture Abstraite Sapphire necklace in white gold, diamonds and sapphires

Dior Rose Rose Couture Abstraite Sapphire necklace in white gold, diamonds and sapphires

 Dior Rose Rose Couture Abstraite Sapphire bracelet in white gold, diamonds and sapphires

Dior Rose Rose Couture Abstraite Sapphire bracelet in white gold, diamonds and sapphires

 Dior Rose Rose Couture Abstraite Sapphire ring in white gold, diamonds and sapphires

Dior Rose Rose Couture Abstraite Sapphire ring in white gold, diamonds and sapphires

 Dior Rose Rose Couture Abstraite yellow diamond earrings in white gold, diamonds and yellow diamonds

Dior Rose Rose Couture Abstraite yellow diamond earrings in white gold, diamonds and yellow diamonds

 Dior Rose Rose Couture Abstraite yellow diamond ring in white gold, diamonds and yellow diamonds

Dior Rose Rose Couture Abstraite yellow diamond ring in white gold, diamonds and yellow diamonds

 Dior Gem Dior diamond bracelet

Dior Gem Dior diamond bracelet

The jewellery from the Couture chapter has practically nothing to do with the rose flower but they include some iconic elements of Dior jewellery such as the unusual kite-cut diamonds that Victoire used in the 2017 collection Dior à Versailles, Côté Jardins and the 2018 collection Dior Dior Dior. I should also point out that this is not the first or even the second collection dedicated to Monsieur Dior’s favourite flower. Exactly 10 years ago Victoire created the Le Bal des Roses collection in which she used various carved stones as petals.

Dior Rose Couture diamond earrings with kite shaped diamonds

Dior Rose Couture diamond earrings with kite shaped diamonds

 Dior Rose Couture diamond ring

Dior Rose Couture diamond ring

 Dior Rose Couture High Jewellery necklace with diamonds

Dior Rose Couture High Jewellery necklace with diamonds

 Dior Rose Couture bracelet with a central cushion-cut diamond

Dior Rose Couture bracelet with a central cushion-cut diamond

 Dior Rose Couture earrings with round and cushion-cut diamonds

Dior Rose Couture earrings with round and cushion-cut diamonds

 Dior Rose Couture High Jewellery necklace with diamonds

Dior Rose Couture High Jewellery necklace with diamonds

 Dior Rose Couture High Jewellery necklace with diamonds and pink sapphires

Dior Rose Couture High Jewellery necklace with diamonds and pink sapphires

 Dior Rose Couture earrings with diamonds and pink sapphires

Dior Rose Couture earrings with diamonds and pink sapphires

 Dior Rose Couture ring with a central pink sapphire surrounded by diamonds

Dior Rose Couture ring with a central pink sapphire surrounded by diamonds

The Dior Rose collection is now the Maison’s most extensive high jewellery collection. Its presentation to Dior VIP clients took place in early June in Chengdu (China) in the format of a dinner and a show. The creative director of the company’s fashion division, Maria Grazia Chiuri, designed evening dresses especially for the occasion using the colour palette of a cloudy sky, something which worked to accentuate the colours of the jewellery’s gemstones.

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