Ruchi New York: Eclectic Designs Evoke Emotion Through Colour

April 26, 2021

By Katerina Perez

5 min read

Rather than being tied down by a defined aesthetic, Ruchi Kotahwala has placed a free-spiritedness at the heart of her eponymous fine jewellery house that is guided by diverse inspirations and moments of absolute creative clarity. Her self-described eclecticism might suggest a cacophonous array of jewels without a narrative, and yet the opposite is true. Ruchi New York has found the link – the trail of breadcrumbs – that connects brightly coloured rhodium, diamond slices and important emeralds with tropical, contemporary, classic and ostentatious themes. Here, I find out more about this brand producing covetous creations for some very famous faces.

In India, jewellery is a part of religion, culture and spirituality. Every occasion is celebrated by giving and receiving jewellery,” explains designer Ruchi Kotahwala, who grew up in Mumbai and has now been living in New York for 19 years. Her formative years in India emerge subtly in the curves and shapes of Ruchi jewels but are perhaps most predominantly felt in the spirit of the brand, which is energetic, lively and colourful, much like Indian culture itself but also the streets of New York that she now calls home.

Ruchi New York Jewels of Desire Narcissa earrings with 12.21 carats of emeralds and 3.70 carats of diamonds

Ruchi New York Jewels of Desire Narcissa earrings with 12.21 carats of emeralds and 3.70 carats of diamonds

 Ruchi New York Jewels Of Desire Iris Hoop earrings with 5.18 carats of emeralds and 4.56 carats of diamonds

Ruchi New York Jewels Of Desire Iris Hoop earrings with 5.18 carats of emeralds and 4.56 carats of diamonds

 Ruchi New York Jewels Of Desire Dahlia Crescent earrings with 11.64 carats of diamonds

Ruchi New York Jewels Of Desire Dahlia Crescent earrings with 11.64 carats of diamonds

Kotahwala began designing jewellery at 16 and later studied design at the Gemological Institute of America in California. Working alongside her husband – a fifth-generation gemstone authority from Jaipur – she created her own brand, Ruchi New York, with the ideal foundations of entrepreneurship, education and, of course, just the right amount of dreamy creativity. The first Ruchi New York collection launched in 2018 and, since then, the brand has created a wealth of jewels with vibrant colours, floral motifs and geometric patterns.

Ruchi New York Jewels Of Desire Iris Hoop earrings with 15.18 carats of emeralds and 4.56 carats of diamonds

Ruchi New York Jewels Of Desire Iris Hoop earrings with 15.18 carats of emeralds and 4.56 carats of diamonds

When exploring ruchinewyork.com, you have probably noticed a great variety of creative directions in Ruchi’s collections. “I don’t have any distinct look,” she explains. “I am very eclectic, and my designs and moods are continually changing and evolving. Having said that, I do think there is a DNA to my brand and designs; big or small, simple or vibrant, my pieces stand out because of the colours I use, both the colours of stones and the colours of metal.”

Ruchi Kotahwala, the founder and designer behind Ruchi New York

Ruchi Kotahwala, the founder and designer behind Ruchi New York

Browse through Ruchi’s collections and you’ll see how the brand refuses to stand still: there are diamond slices with natural inclusions in the Organic Beauty offer; bright sparks of red ruby and green emeralds in the Tropical Paradise collection; and swirls of pink, purple and pastel hued rhodium with diamonds in the Aurora Nights creations, inspired by the Northern Lights. The brand’s collections appeal to modern, American sensibilities, focusing on versatility and wearability, as well as the fun and playfulness that’s imbued in multi-coloured gemstones and diamonds. Kotahwala continues: “I love to push boundaries and I am constantly working on collections. I have recently been working on pieces with tinted rhodium on 18k gold.”

Ruchi New York Enchanted Evening Celeste bracelet with 123.38 carats of blue sapphires and 1.64 carats of diamonds

Ruchi New York Enchanted Evening Celeste bracelet with 123.38 carats of blue sapphires and 1.64 carats of diamonds

Even as her mind races with ideas, Kotahwala is always thinking of the women who buy her pieces. She says: “I have realised that women go through phases in life and fashion. For example, a young girl likes to wear tiny studs, a pendant or a thin bracelet with charms, while women in the mid-30s to mid-50s get more adventurous and love wearing something more substantial. Others want to invest in heirloom-like pieces they can pass on to their children and grandchildren. I like to design keeping all these phases in mind… from casual to cocktail and simple to bold.”

Ruchi New York Enchanted Evening sapphire stud earrings

Ruchi New York Enchanted Evening sapphire stud earrings

She strongly believes that gemstones have mystical properties. “I have always believed that gemstones hold healing powers and spiritual energy. It is thought that each gemstone carries its own vibrational energy, which when absorbed by the wearer creates a positive change in their lives. For example, emeralds are believed to help with the body’s regeneration, renewal and growth. Sapphires are meant to alleviate anxiety and insomnia, and rubies are associated with finding love, trust and courage.”

Ruchi New York Aurora Nights necklaces with diamonds set in gold and tinted rhodium

Ruchi New York Aurora Nights necklaces with diamonds set in gold and tinted rhodium

 Ruchi New York Aurora Nights Arc Grande necklace with 13.38 carats of diamonds in gold and tinted rhodium

Ruchi New York Aurora Nights Arc Grande necklace with 13.38 carats of diamonds in gold and tinted rhodium

 Ruchi New York Aurora Nights crawler earrings with diamonds set in gold and tinted rhodium

Ruchi New York Aurora Nights crawler earrings with diamonds set in gold and tinted rhodium

 Ruchi New York Aurora Nights Eos necklace with 6.24 carats of diamonds in gold and tinted rhodium

Ruchi New York Aurora Nights Eos necklace with 6.24 carats of diamonds in gold and tinted rhodium

 Ruchi New York Aurora Nights earrings with cabochon and faceted coloured gemstones and diamonds in gold and tinted rhodium

Ruchi New York Aurora Nights earrings with cabochon and faceted coloured gemstones and diamonds in gold and tinted rhodium

Ruchi has certainly secured the seal of approval from the press and its jewels have featured in Vogue, W and Oprah magazines. Elsewhere, its designs have been worn by swathes of celebrities from Jennifer Hudson and Laura Dern to Celine Dion, Octavia Spencer and Sharon Stone at the Oscars, BAFTAs, Grammys, Emmys and the Golden Globe Awards. More recently, Ruchi had the privilege to adorn the First Lady of the United States, Dr. Jill Biden, who wore the Desert Bloom Mariposa earrings with 9.08 carats of blue sapphires and 1.56 carats of diamonds to her husband’s Presidential Inauguration in January 2021.

First Lady of the United States, Dr. Jill Biden, wearing the Ruchi New York Desert Bloom Mariposa earrings with 9.08 carats of blue sapphires and 1.56 carats of diamonds to her husband’s Presidential Inauguration in January 2021

First Lady of the United States, Dr. Jill Biden, wearing the Ruchi New York Desert Bloom Mariposa earrings with 9.08 carats of blue sapphires and 1.56 carats of diamonds to her husband’s Presidential Inauguration in January 2021

Today, Kotahwala feels strongly that jewellery has the power to do good and she works closely with several charities to financially empower underprivileged women, particularly widows, and help them establish small businesses. As her star power continues to rise and Ruchi jewels find their way onto red carpets, magazine pages, and even international political stages, I look forward to seeing how Kotahwala’s diverse collections evolve and what colour palettes and themes she will introduce us to next.  

Birthday Edition: Katerina Perez’s Poker Face

continue reading

Reasons to Shop: The Moments that Demand a Fresh Jewellery Purchase 

There's no rule that says you need a reason to buy a new piece of jewellery, but sometimes, a little encouragement makes the decision even more exciting. If you're looking for a playful excuse to book your next jewellery appointment, here are a few irresistible reasons to treat yourself.

by Hirshi Sujanti

Grecian Glamour: The Designers Preparing to Spotlight Greek Style at JCK Las Vegas

Recently, I was approached by the organisers of a special ‘Greek mission’ who are supporting 11 independent designers and brands as they seek to make their mark at JCK Las Vegas from June 6-9, 2025. Below, I would like to introduce you to each of the businesses participating in this incredible showcase of Greek design, ingenuity and craftsmanship.

by Katerina Perez

Naked Attraction: The Best High Jewellery of the 2025 Cannes Film Festival 

Here’s a rundown of some of the best Cannes jewellery looks from the 78th annual festival (May 13-24), including the likes of Dakota Johnson, Angelina Jolie, and Natalie Portman, who all make striking jewellery the star of their ensembles

by Sarah Jordan

In Conversation: Discussing Paraiba — The Legacy of a Color with Vogue Singapore

The conversation encouraged both myself and Kevin Ferreira, my co-author, to recall exactly why we wrote Paraiba: The Legacy of a Color, and I am pleased to share more with you below

by Katerina Perez

Semi-Precious vs Precious Gemstones: Why the Old Labels No Longer Work

I can’t count the number of times I’ve asked myself: what really sets so-called precious and semi-precious stonesapart? Is it their rarity? Colour? Durability? Value? Or is it simply tradition—an outdated hierarchy we’ve inherited without question

by Katerina Perez

Larger than Life: New Mineral Masterpieces and Global Adventures with Margot McKinney 

Let’s take a closer look at the pieces and places that have helped to shape the Margot McKinney brand over the last 12 months, including the rather sensational Marina, Aurora and Bloem necklaces

by Katerina Perez

Male Adornment: The Evolution of Men’s Jewellery from the 1400s Until Today

Men's jewellery is often overlooked, yet its history is both rich and cyclical. Over the past six centuries, the popularity of male adornments has fluctuated, reflecting shifts in fashion, status, and cultural values. Here, Amanda Triossi examines the reasons behind male jewellery, along with its periods of abundance and decline.

by Amanda Triossi

Perfect Proposal: The Top 10 Engagement Ring Mistakes to Avoid 

The moment you start thinking about proposing, everything shifts. Ordinary things become significant: dinner out, a walk in the park, a glance at their jewellery box. And then comes "the ring": a symbol of love, yes, but also a silent spokesperson for everything you feel and hope for. No pressure, right?

by Claire Roberts

Couture Show 2025: The Top 10 Debutants Heading to Las Vegas 

The much anticipated Couture Show will return to Wynn Las Vegas from June 4-8, 2025, shining a spotlight on established design talent, new creatives, and international brands that are vying for attention on the global stage. Just like in previous years, I am focusing my attention on the debutants

by Katerina Perez

Designing the Future: Revealing the Winners of the Katerina Perez x Osmium Institute Design Contest

What a ride it has been, witnessing such pure creative energy and original thinking, especially with a material as rare and futuristic as osmium

by Katerina Perez

New Icons: The Latest Collections by Italian Micromosaic Master SICIS 

I was presented with two striking new collections – Icon and Colibrì – that offer different interpretations of the SICIS aesthetic. Below, I want to give you a closer look at these capsule suites and tell you more about the inspirations behind them

by Katerina Perez

Fabulous Fabrications: TAOS Presents a Trio of Watches Inspired by Couture Fashion

Occasionally, beautiful timepieces demonstrating exceptional Métiers d’Art will land on our virtual desks and result in a round-robin series of emails. In the hours after we received insights into the emerging Swiss brand TAOS, almost the entire team had seen the fabric-inspired dials of its latest creations, and we all agreed that an article was […]

by Sarah Jordan

Latest Stories

Add articles and images to your favourites. Just

Legacy of Love:The Dreamlike Jewels of Emirati Designer Mariyeh Ghelichkhani

During our meeting in Dubai, we spoke about the importance of family, the sweetness of finding joy through creativity, and the ability to translate dreamy visions and deep feelings into wearable pieces…

by Katerina Perez

Jewels Katerina Perez Loves

Continue Reading

Writing Adventures:Co-Authoring the Book

Paraiba: The Legacy of a Color

by Katerina Perez

Jewellery Insights straight to your inbox

Style Guide

By using this website, you agree to the storing of cookies on your device to enhance site navigation, analyze site usage, and assist in our marketing efforts. View our Privacy Policy for more information.