Philippe Pfeiffer: The Art of Transforming the Old into New

The antique and unused jewellery pieces that Philippe Pfeiffer modernises in his bespoke jewellery service can be likened to a Grand Dame actress: although cherished, she may look out of place and go unacknowledged in the wrong context. That is, unless you create a fitting, celebrative new stage for her. In his own words, Philippe Pfeiffer creates a “theatre for the piece to be appreciated to its fullest potential.”

This London-based jeweller possesses an incredibly individual style of creating and experimenting with fine jewellery, and predominantly produces his own original designs alongside his custom work. During the process of redesigning a piece, he is required to understand not only the individual, but also the best way to repurpose and showcase their precious jewellery that is no longer being worn.

I understand that all of the jewellery that people bring to me to redesign is sentimental. So, I want to offer them something unexpected and completely unique, rather than a piece created in the same way that any jewellery designer could do. For one piece, I will take a bracelet apart and incorporate all its gemstone components into a new design, but for another, I will set a brooch into carbon fibre to make a statement cocktail ring out of it… – Philippe Pfeiffer

During my recent visit to Philippe Pfeiffer’s charming atelier at 52 Artillery Lane in Spitalfields, I had a chance to see some of his clients’ treasured jewellery pieces, which the jeweller is in the process of transforming from something old into something new.

PP: Often, when jewellery designers give new life to an old piece, they simply repurpose the stones, whereas I often appreciate the antique design and try to  keep intact the elements of that particular piece of jewellery. I like to make jewellery that’s modern, but I can appreciate the beauty, the delicacy and the craftsmanship of an old piece. Rather than destroy that, I want to underline it, to accentuate what it is and why it looks the way it does. But I like to keep what it was as part of the piece; I don’t want to steal that from the past.

PP: I’ll show them the portfolio of my bespoke work, and we discuss what they like, what they don’t and what will work for them. From that I start to build the ideas around their personal piece for them to approve. It’s a delightful process.

After spending time with Philippe, I realise that this jeweller doesn’t simply turn old jewellery into new pieces; he transforms unloved sentimental items into exciting, show-stopping talismans.