Trend: Tassels and fringe dominate 2019’s high jewellery collections

August 6, 2019

By Katerina Perez

5 min read

In 2014, I wrote an article about precious sautoirs and earrings with tassels, because back then these playful features appeared to be at the peak of their popularity. They could be found not only in jewellery, but also adorning clothes, shoes, and various accessories. Four years later, in 2018, gem and pearl tassels returned to the world of high jewellery in droves and this year, at Paris Haute Couture week, it seems that they have been joined by gold and gem embellished fringes.

Tassels originate from the time of Tutankhamen – indeed these adornments were actually found in Pharaoh’s tomb. In his book Tutankhamen: The Son of Osiris, Christian DeRosh-Noblkur writes that “Following the leaders of Vavat, young Nubian princes and princesses with delicate facial features could be seen wearing Egyptian clothing, but Nubian tassel earrings…” Even in Ancient Egypt, this design feature was exclusive to high-ranking people, and was – like the gem encrusted gold with which Egyptians adorned themselves – considered a symbol of great wealth. In this sense it is no wonder that tassels migrated from textiles to become a crucial element of jewellery design. 

Tasaki ‘Ocean Frontier’ collection 'Waterfall' suite with pearls and diamonds in white gold

Tasaki ‘Ocean Frontier’ collection 'Waterfall' suite with pearls and diamonds in white gold

Going back to high jewellery of 2019, the clustered gems adorned almost each new collection of prominent Maisons. Emerald tassels were, perhaps,  the most popular motif seen at Boucheron, Van Cleef & Arpels and Piaget in their transformable necklace. The Boucheron sautoir from the ‘Paris Vu Du 26’ collection, entitled ‘Verrier’, is inspired by the great dome of the historic Grand Palais. A detachable brooch made of rock crystal and diamonds in white gold depicts a bird’s eye view of the iconic museum. In turn, the pendant depicts the famous vast dome of glass that covers a marvellous garden of titanium plants. As part of the jewellery set, there are also earrings with emerald tassels which complement the necklace.

Boucheron ‘Paris Vu Du 26’ collection ‘Verriere’ sautoir with emeralds and diamonds in white gold

Boucheron ‘Paris Vu Du 26’ collection ‘Verriere’ sautoir with emeralds and diamonds in white gold

 Boucheron ‘Paris Vu Du 26’ collection ‘Verriere’ earrings with emeralds and diamonds in white gold

Boucheron ‘Paris Vu Du 26’ collection ‘Verriere’ earrings with emeralds and diamonds in white gold

Van Cleef and Arpels’ new collection, ‘Romeo and Juliet’, recounts the story of literature’s most famous lovers. The luxurious ‘Giardino’ necklace – comprised of two strands of sapphire beads, refers to the jewellery worn by the nobility during the Renaissance. The sautoir is decorated with two pendants, one of which features a carved Colombian hexagonal cut emerald weighing 81.07 carats, decorated with elaborate engravings. The second is a soft bushel of hundreds of emeralds. If the wearer wishes, the double thread can be turned into a long necklace – with one pendant worn in front and the other behind.

Van Cleef&Arpels 'Romeo and Juliet' collection 'Giardino' transformable sautoir with 81.07ct carved Colombian hexagonal cut emerald, accenting emeralds, sapphires and diamonds in rose and white gold

Van Cleef&Arpels 'Romeo and Juliet' collection 'Giardino' transformable sautoir with 81.07ct carved Colombian hexagonal cut emerald, accenting emeralds, sapphires and diamonds in rose and white gold

For lovers of revivalist jewellery, Piaget designers have created ‘Secret Oasis’ long necklace with a Colombian emerald of 26 carats – 688 beads of the same gem – and almost 13 carats of diamonds in a variety of different cuts. This piece is a part of the ‘Golden Oasis’ collection, and is inspired by the beauty of the desert and the scorching sun. Palm leaves are used to form the central decorative element, and are transformed into a brooch, either with or without a brush of emeralds, while the base of the necklace is transformed into two separate bracelets.

Piaget 'Golden Oasis' collection ‘Secret Oasis’ sautoir with 26ct Colombian emerald, accenting emeralds and diamonds in white gold

Piaget 'Golden Oasis' collection ‘Secret Oasis’ sautoir with 26ct Colombian emerald, accenting emeralds and diamonds in white gold

 Piaget 'Golden Oasis' collection ‘Secret Oasis’ sautoir with 26ct Colombian emerald, accenting emeralds and diamonds in white gold

Piaget 'Golden Oasis' collection ‘Secret Oasis’ sautoir with 26ct Colombian emerald, accenting emeralds and diamonds in white gold

 Piaget 'Golden Oasis' collection ‘Secret Oasis’ sautoir with 26ct Colombian emerald, accenting emeralds and diamonds in white gold

Piaget 'Golden Oasis' collection ‘Secret Oasis’ sautoir with 26ct Colombian emerald, accenting emeralds and diamonds in white gold

An alternative and particularly interesting interpretation of the ubiquitous tassel theme can be seen in the Japanese brand Tasaki’s new collection of haute joaillerie: ‘Ocean Frontier’. The ‘Waterfall’ necklace and earrings are adorned with a single pearl and a cascade of sparkling diamonds, while the ring from this set is decorated with elegant gold chains. Unlike the monochrome palette of Tasaki’s collection, the Italian brand Gucci presented a brightly coloured necklace with citrines and tourmalines from the ‘Hortus Deliciarum’ debut fine jewellery line. The whole collection is dedicated to the iconic symbols of the Gucci fashion house, including a lion that holds a tassel in its mouth.

Gucci 'Hortus Deliciarum' collection necklace with citrines, tourmalines and diamonds in white gold

Gucci 'Hortus Deliciarum' collection necklace with citrines, tourmalines and diamonds in white gold

 Tasaki 'Ocean Frontier' collection 'Waterfall' necklace with pearl and diamonds in white gold

Tasaki 'Ocean Frontier' collection 'Waterfall' necklace with pearl and diamonds in white gold

Now imagine before you, readers, a silk tassel which has been unfolded in a long single line. The fringed thread you hold in your hands is that which forms the basis for the design of the stunning Cartier ‘Alya’ necklace with 107.69 carats of Mozambican rubies, as well as tourmalines, amazonites, onyx and diamonds. Similarly, this fringed motif is translated in De Beers ‘Chapman’s Zebra’ necklace with diamonds and black pearl, as well as the Boucheron ‘Grosgrain’ malachite, onyx and diamonds piece, and the Chanel’s ‘Ble Gabrielle’ necklace created with textured white and yellow gold with diamonds. The approach of the first three brands makes use of a fringe with a repeating pattern, which bends around the entire circumference of the neck. In the latter brand, the fringe is used to embolden the design’s frontal foliage.

Boucheron ‘Paris Vu Du 26’ collection 'Grosgrain' fringe necklace with malachite, onyx and diamonds in white gold

Boucheron ‘Paris Vu Du 26’ collection 'Grosgrain' fringe necklace with malachite, onyx and diamonds in white gold

 Chanel 'Le Paris Russe de Chanel' collection 'Blé Gabrielle' necklace with diamonds in white and yellow gold

Chanel 'Le Paris Russe de Chanel' collection 'Blé Gabrielle' necklace with diamonds in white and yellow gold

 De Beers 'Chapman's Zebra' necklace with diamonds and grey mother of pearl in white gold

De Beers 'Chapman's Zebra' necklace with diamonds and grey mother of pearl in white gold

 De Beers 'Chapman's Zebra' necklace with diamonds and grey mother of pearl in white gold

De Beers 'Chapman's Zebra' necklace with diamonds and grey mother of pearl in white gold

 Cartier 'Magnitude' collection 'Alya' necklace with 107.69ct Mozambican rubies, tourmalines, amazonites, onyx and diamonds in white gold

Cartier 'Magnitude' collection 'Alya' necklace with 107.69ct Mozambican rubies, tourmalines, amazonites, onyx and diamonds in white gold

The incorporation of moving components within jewellery design, as described in this article, add an otherwise absent dynamic to high art jewellery which, in my opinion, makes it more playful. Necklaces, earrings, rings and bracelets become suitable not only for special celebrations, but for a much broader range of occasions.

‘Chaumet in Majesty’: An Exhibition of Spectacular Tiaras

continue reading

Haute Couture 2025: The Unconventional Lines of the Vhernier Ardis High Jewellery Collection 

Let's take a closer look at the pieces that launched at Paris Haute Couture week, including the sculptural necklaces we simply couldn't leave without photographing.

by Sarah Jordan

Haute Couture 2025: The 70s Depths of the Piaget Shapes of Extraleganza High Jewellery Collection

Through the Piaget Society, a circle of artists, collectors and freethinkers, the Maison helped shape the cultural zeitgeist of the 1970s.

by Claire Roberts

Haute Couture Week 2025: The Gentle Flutter of Mikimoto Les Pétales High Jewellery

Let’s take a closer look at some of the aristocratic highlights of this latest Mikimoto offering…

by Sarah Jordan

Elevated Expression: Examining The Jade Dynasty Collection by Austy Lee

Austy Lee is someone we return to time and again here at KaterinaPerez.com, largely because the designer's work never fails to impress. Let's hear what he has to say on China's most emblematic mineral…

by Sarah Jordan

Haute Couture 2025: The Biggest High Jewellery Trends to Emerge from Paris 

Transformability was a recurring theme, as were bold uses of colour, sculptural silhouettes and rare gemstones with compelling stories. Here are the key trends that defined the 2025 high jewellery season.

by Joshua Hendren

Flower Power: The Uplifting Energy of Jewels in Full Bloom 

Florals have long been a favourite in fine jewellery, and they never lose their charm. This year’s Couture show in Las Vegas proved just how inventive floral jewellery can be, bursting with colour, craftsmanship, and imagination

by Hirshi Sujanti

You’ve Got the Moves: Kinetic Jewellery with Moving Elements

Sometimes, at the Couture Show, you encounter a trend that feels perfectly attuned to the times we’re living in. This year in Las Vegas, that trend was movement. Or, more precisely, moving elements that speak to that very human desire to keep our hands busy, our senses engaged, and our minds soothed.

by Claire Roberts

Verified in Vegas: The Biggest Jewellery Trends of the Couture Show 2025

The Couture Show presents a curated view of the best in craftsmanship, design, fresh ideas and originality, which is why it’s such a vital place to forecast the ‘next big thing’. Here’s what I have gleaned from this year’s State-side events

by Sarah Jordan

Instant Charm: Celebrating New Creations with Karina Choudhrie Jewels

Let's take a closer look at the latest pieces that have emerged from Karina's incredible imagination…

by Katerina Perez

Key Facts About Gold: An Ancient Symbol of Power and Luxury

In an age where digital currencies rise and fall, gold remains a universal symbol of stability, beauty, and lasting worth. It is worn on the skin, locked in vaults, and passed down through generations as a living legacy.

by Hirshi Sujanti

Little Legends: The History and Power of Pinky Rings

Pinky rings have long carried cultural weight - from Ancient Mesopotamian seals to Egyptian signets and Japanese kamon heirlooms. Today, the style is experiencing a resurgence, thanks to contemporary designers and a growing list of high-profile wearers, including Meghan Markle, Bruno Mars, Rihanna, Victoria Beckham, Bella Hadid and Emily Ratajkowski

by Joshua Hendren

Forever in Bloom: The Timeless Charm of Flowers in Jewellery

Flowers may fade in a vase, but flowers in jewellery—they bloom eternally

by Hirshi Sujanti

Latest Stories

Add articles and images to your favourites. Just

Epic Evolution:Miseno Launches the Arco Collection to Celebrate a Fabulous Decade

I am pleased to present to you my highlights of the new Arco High Jewellery collection, which was formally showcased to the jewellery world at Couture from June 4-8, 2025

by Katerina Perez

Jewels Katerina Perez Loves

Continue Reading

In Conversation:Discussing Paraiba - The Legacy of a Color

with Vogue Singapore

by Katerina Perez

Jewellery Insights straight to your inbox

Style Guide

By using this website, you agree to the storing of cookies on your device to enhance site navigation, analyze site usage, and assist in our marketing efforts. View our Privacy Policy for more information.