Trend: The sophisticated cool of coloured pearl jewellery

March 18, 2020

By Jodie Smith

8 min read

Pearls have been trending for some time, and so it comes as no surprise that a new trend in this jewellery material has emerged. The rarity of coloured pearls appeals to modern consumers, and jewellers are utilising black Tahitian, golden South Sea, Fijian and Sea of Cortez pearls to create contemporary twists on classic pearl designs.

Autore

Australian brand Autore specialises in jewellery featuring coloured South Sea pearls, and Global Marketing Director Ruby Autore shares that: “in terms of demand, we see the demand for pearl colour change with the trends. White pearls maintain a consistent popularity with gold and black pearls peaking at different times and in different regions. The colour of a pearl is really a matter of personal preference, so it depends on the buyer!”

Autore Hercules Knot necklace with South Sea pearls and diamonds in white gold

Autore Hercules Knot necklace with South Sea pearls and diamonds in white gold

 Autore Ave brooch with baroque South Sea pearl, yellow and blue sapphires and diamonds in yellow and white gold

Autore Ave brooch with baroque South Sea pearl, yellow and blue sapphires and diamonds in yellow and white gold

 Autore necklace with South Sea pearls, diamonds and yellow sapphires in yellow gold

Autore necklace with South Sea pearls, diamonds and yellow sapphires in yellow gold

 Autore earrings with South Sea, Tahitian pearls, sapphires and diamonds in yellow gold

Autore earrings with South Sea, Tahitian pearls, sapphires and diamonds in yellow gold

 Autore earrings with South Sea pearls, yellow sapphires and diamonds in yellow gold

Autore earrings with South Sea pearls, yellow sapphires and diamonds in yellow gold

 Autore earrings with Tahitian keshi pearls and diamonds in white gold

Autore earrings with Tahitian keshi pearls and diamonds in white gold

 Autore Tiberio ring with South Sea pearl, lapis lazuli and diamonds in yellow gold

Autore Tiberio ring with South Sea pearl, lapis lazuli and diamonds in yellow gold

Melanie Georgacopoulos

Melanie Georgacopoulos is another innovative designer whose niche is in pearl and mother-of-pearl jewellery. Having collaborated with the Japanese pearl brand Tasaki, as well as creating designs as an independent artist, Melanie truly adores these materials and their unique properties. She comments on the increase in desire for jewellery which incorporates coloured pearls: “over the years people have become more widely accepting of pearls in general, the recent popularity of pearls started with white pearls but as they have become increasingly popular, people are beginning to look for more special pieces and this means embracing colour, from golden South Sea pearls to beautiful pink freshwaters and the deep tones of Tahitian pearls. As people gain confidence in wearing pearls, they are open to being more playful and because of this coloured pearls are becoming more appreciated.”

Melanie Georgacopoulos Nacre necklace with South Sea pearls and mother of pearl in yellow gold

Melanie Georgacopoulos Nacre necklace with South Sea pearls and mother of pearl in yellow gold

 Melanie Georgacopoulos Twist necklace with South Sea pearls and yellow sapphire in white gold

Melanie Georgacopoulos Twist necklace with South Sea pearls and yellow sapphire in white gold

 Melanie Georgacopoulos Flow bangle with Tahitian pearls in yellow gold

Melanie Georgacopoulos Flow bangle with Tahitian pearls in yellow gold

 Melanie Georgacopoulos Nacre ring with Tahitian pearl and mother of pearl in yellow gold

Melanie Georgacopoulos Nacre ring with Tahitian pearl and mother of pearl in yellow gold

 Melanie Georgacopoulos Peacock Oval ring with Tahitian pearl and mother of pearl in white gold

Melanie Georgacopoulos Peacock Oval ring with Tahitian pearl and mother of pearl in white gold

 Melanie Georgacopoulos Double Pearl Nacre ring with lavender fresh water pearls and mother of pearl in rose gold

Melanie Georgacopoulos Double Pearl Nacre ring with lavender fresh water pearls and mother of pearl in rose gold

 Melanie Georgacopoulos Tile bracelet with lavender fresh water pearls and mother of pearl in yellow gold

Melanie Georgacopoulos Tile bracelet with lavender fresh water pearls and mother of pearl in yellow gold

 Melanie Georgacopoulos Flow ear cuffs with with lavender fresh water pearls in white gold

Melanie Georgacopoulos Flow ear cuffs with with lavender fresh water pearls in white gold

Mikimoto

Mikimoto, a 127-year old Japanese company founded by Kokichi Mikimoto, who succeeded in cultivating the world’s first cultured pearl and then established the very first black-lipped oyster pearl farm in Okinawa, Japan, over 20 years late in 1914. These innovations are considered to have revolutionised the pearl industry forever, and the brand’s significant history in the pearl industry means that their creations tend to defy trends; but their selection of black, silver or golden cultured pearl jewellery is finding fans in a new generation of trend-setting models, DJs and creatives. 

Mikimoto Golden Illusion necklace with South Sea pearls, cultured pearls and diamonds in white gold

Mikimoto Golden Illusion necklace with South Sea pearls, cultured pearls and diamonds in white gold

 Mikimoto Aurora earrings with baroque South Sea pearls, cultured pearls and diamonds in white gold

Mikimoto Aurora earrings with baroque South Sea pearls, cultured pearls and diamonds in white gold

 Mikimoto necklace with conch pearl and diamonds in white gold

Mikimoto necklace with conch pearl and diamonds in white gold

 Mikimoto earrings with conch pearl and diamonds in white gold

Mikimoto earrings with conch pearl and diamonds in white gold

 Mikimoto necklace with black South Sea pearls and diamonds in white gold

Mikimoto necklace with black South Sea pearls and diamonds in white gold

 Mikimoto Mistral necklace with Tahitian pearls and diamonds in white gold

Mikimoto Mistral necklace with Tahitian pearls and diamonds in white gold

Assael

Assael Owner and CEO Christina Assael and Vice President of Product Development Peggy Grosz opted to highlight the natural colour undertones in coloured pearls by pairing them with complementary gemstones in The Colours 2020 collection. The line features aquamarines, spinel, precious topaz, jade, morganite and demantoid garnets, combined with South Sea, Fijian and natural-colour Tahitian pearls in trilogy rings, earrings with jackets, and unique statement drop earrings. Tahitian pearls appeal in particular because they contain a range of tones “eggplant and magenta to light green and peacock varieties,” explains Grosz. Assael does not only focus on spherical pearls, but Keshi pearls as well (which are non-nucleated and nacre pearls formed as by-products of the cultivating process) in gold and rainbow varieties.

Assael ‘Sun and Moon’ earrings with golden keshi South Sea pearls, golden beryl and blue sapphires in yellow gold

Assael ‘Sun and Moon’ earrings with golden keshi South Sea pearls, golden beryl and blue sapphires in yellow gold

 Assael earrings with keshi pearls and morganite in white gold

Assael earrings with keshi pearls and morganite in white gold

 Assael earrings with garnets, Tahitian pearl and diamonds in white gold

Assael earrings with garnets, Tahitian pearl and diamonds in white gold

 Assael cuff with lavender spinel, moonstones and Tahitian pearls in white gold

Assael cuff with lavender spinel, moonstones and Tahitian pearls in white gold

 Assael earrings with aquamarine, black jade and Akoya pearls in white gold

Assael earrings with aquamarine, black jade and Akoya pearls in white gold

 Assael earrings with amethysts, spinel and Tahitian pearls in white gold

Assael earrings with amethysts, spinel and Tahitian pearls in white gold

 Assael earrings with white jade, rubellite and Tahitian pearls in yellow gold

Assael earrings with white jade, rubellite and Tahitian pearls in yellow gold

YOKO London

With a focus on more traditional, classically glamorous pearl designs, YOKO London state that: “whilst we find that our white pearls are always the most popular and readily received, we find that our coloured pearl pieces always draw people’s attention. There is something very special and alluring about natural coloured pearls that people are drawn to, especially when they are set in modern, unique designs.”

YOKO London suite with white South Sea pearls, Tahitian pearls and diamonds in white gold

YOKO London suite with white South Sea pearls, Tahitian pearls and diamonds in white gold

 YOKO London necklace with white South Sea pearls, Tahitian pearls and 12ct of diamonds in white gold

YOKO London necklace with white South Sea pearls, Tahitian pearls and 12ct of diamonds in white gold

 YOKO London bracelet with white South Sea pearls, Tahitian pearls and diamonds in white gold

YOKO London bracelet with white South Sea pearls, Tahitian pearls and diamonds in white gold

 YOKO London earrings with Tahitian pearls and diamonds in white gold

YOKO London earrings with Tahitian pearls and diamonds in white gold

 YOKO London necklace with white South Sea pearls, Radiant Orchid pearls and 12ct of diamonds in white gold

YOKO London necklace with white South Sea pearls, Radiant Orchid pearls and 12ct of diamonds in white gold

 YOKO London earrings with white South Sea pearls, Radiant Orchid pearls and diamonds in white gold

YOKO London earrings with white South Sea pearls, Radiant Orchid pearls and diamonds in white gold

 YOKO London ring with white South Sea pearls, Radiant Orchid pearls and diamonds in white gold

YOKO London ring with white South Sea pearls, Radiant Orchid pearls and diamonds in white gold

 YOKO London necklace with golden South Sea pearl and diamonds in yellow gold

YOKO London necklace with golden South Sea pearl and diamonds in yellow gold

Coloured pearls are becoming more widely recognised and understood to the jewellery-loving public, and as more people realise that there is a rainbow of pearl hues available, the more opt to wear jewellery incorporating this rare, unique and unconventional precious material.

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