Assael: Discovering precious varieties of coral with Christina Lang Assael

August 16, 2018

By Katerina Perez

6 min read

Coral is a sea mineral utilised by jewellers which nature has graced with an incomparable red or pink colour, as well as a smooth, tactile texture. As with gemstones, the quality of this ‘gift of the sea’ varies; some of its varieties are much more rarely encountered than others. To learn more about the spectrum of different types, shades and origins of coral, I turned to Christina Lang Assael – a renowned expert in this precious marine material – as well as the President and CEO of the jewellery brand Assael.

There isn’t a single precious mineral on earth quite like coral – both in terms of its composition or appearance – making it truly distinctive. The number of species of this organism is in the thousands, and the number of colour variations? In the hundreds.

Assael 42 inch necklace with Angel Skin coral and diamonds

Assael 42 inch necklace with Angel Skin coral and diamonds

 Assael necklaces with Angel Skin coral and diamonds

Assael necklaces with Angel Skin coral and diamonds

 Assael cocktail ring with Angel Skin coral and diamonds

Assael cocktail ring with Angel Skin coral and diamonds

 Assael earrings with Angel Skin coral and diamonds

Assael earrings with Angel Skin coral and diamonds

 Assael 'Flame' drop earrings with Angel Skin coral and diamonds

Assael 'Flame' drop earrings with Angel Skin coral and diamonds

What’s more, the jewellery grade or ‘precious’ species of coral – that which comprises the colours and the types which are both desirable and available – can only be sourced in specific regions: for example, in the Mediterranean and the Sea of Japan and Taiwan, where there are fossilised colonies of the invertebrate polyps. Surface reefs of huge lengths, or entire coral atolls (islands) belong to different species of coral, and are not the precious gem coral that is used in jewellery.

Assael rings in Angel Skin coral and diamonds

Assael rings in Angel Skin coral and diamonds

The classification of the coral material is based on the geography of its vegetation and colour characteristics. Precious pale pink and deep red corals are considered to be the most beautiful, the rarest, and therefore, the most valuable. Generally, gem coral is found in relatively small quantities deep in the ocean, far below the surface reef corals. This means that it is uncommon to come across these treasures in jewellery. Assael’s luxurious booth at the recent COUTURE Las Vegas exhibition, however, was an opportunity for me to observe and examine several coral types simultaneously: feminine pink and salmon coloured specimens known as ‘Angel Skin’ coral, as well as ‘Sardinian Red’ coral, and an incredibly valuable darker red species known as ‘Aka’ coral, also referred to as ‘Oxblood’ coral.

Assael necklace and cuff with Sardinian coral and yellow gold

Assael necklace and cuff with Sardinian coral and yellow gold

You’re most likely to recognise the name Assael thanks to the magnificent pearl jewellery which the company is known for. The company has another speciality though: creating coral jewellery that is set in gold, or strung into strands. It was this selection of coral jewellery in the salon’s display case – worth millions of dollars – which caught my attention.

Introducing me to a $3 million dollar deeply red Aka coral strand, Christina Assael explains, “This is a very special piece of Aka coral (Oxblood coral) which we brought to exhibit to the visitors of the COUTURE show. The piece features beads whose colour saturation and evenness are totally exceptional. This extremely rare variety comes from Japan, and can no longer legally be harvested – as is also the case for Angel Skin coral.”

Assael 33 inch necklace with Sardinian coral and yellow gold

Assael 33 inch necklace with Sardinian coral and yellow gold

 Assael 32.5 inch necklace with Sardinian coral and yellow gold

Assael 32.5 inch necklace with Sardinian coral and yellow gold

 Assael 'Hearts Desire' drop earrings with Sardinian coral and diamonds

Assael 'Hearts Desire' drop earrings with Sardinian coral and diamonds

 Assael 'Diamond Leaf' drop earrings and brooch / pendant set with Sardinian coral and diamonds

Assael 'Diamond Leaf' drop earrings and brooch / pendant set with Sardinian coral and diamonds

 Assael 'Hot Number' drop earrings with Sardinian coral and diamonds

Assael 'Hot Number' drop earrings with Sardinian coral and diamonds

 Assael 'Fire on Ice' earrings with Sardinian coral and diamonds

Assael 'Fire on Ice' earrings with Sardinian coral and diamonds

 Assael 'Pagoda' drop earrings with Sardinian coral and diamonds

Assael 'Pagoda' drop earrings with Sardinian coral and diamonds

“We were very lucky to come across an old supply, which was ethically sourced at the time that it was harvested,” Mrs. Assael tells me. So, what does the term “ethically sourced” mean? “Ethically sourced means that our coral only comes from accredited divers who harvest at a dedicated time once every year. They also extract only a certain amount of coral in order to not destroy the reef. Actually, some of the branches get picked up from the ocean floor after they have already fallen off the reef – these are called Sciacca coral,” explains Assael’s CEO. Interestingly, when people talk about coral being in danger of extinction, this generally relates to shallow water species damaged by the warming waters due to global warming, and sometimes by ships – these are not the species which are used to make coral jewellery.

Assael Ox Blood Aka coral and diamond necklace

Assael Ox Blood Aka coral and diamond necklace

Assael takes its responsibility to source coral ethically very seriously, and is even a member of the World Jewellery Confederation CIBJO. In fact, Mrs. Assael serves on the Coral Commission and the Pearl Commission of CIBJO, and works with other world leaders and the UN to improve conditions for workers and to prevent over-harvesting of precious coral. It could be said that the Assael stamp on the jewellery industry is not only the guarantee of high quality materials, but also a concern for the environment.

Whilst looking at the Oxblood coral strand, I was brought another coral necklace that was a slightly lighter colour. Mrs Assael explained: “This is Sardinian gem coral that comes from the Mediterranean Sea. It is dangerous and very difficult to harvest, and therefore, it is not done so readily. Plus, you can only harvest it once a year, and there are only a few legal licenses for coral diving off the coast of Sardinia.”

Katerina Perez wearing Assael Ox Blood Aka coral necklace, Sardinian coral necklace and Sardinian coral cuff with yellow gold

Katerina Perez wearing Assael Ox Blood Aka coral necklace, Sardinian coral necklace and Sardinian coral cuff with yellow gold

Last but not least, I discovered Angel Skin coral. It has a pretty pink hue; the lighter the colour, the more valuable the organic material. The uniformity of the colour distribution across the whole coral and the presence of any ‘disruptions’ – meaning interruptions and shifts in the colour – also effect the price. Harvesting this coral is in fact illegal now, so adding to the rarity of this jewellery is the fact that the minerals used to make Assael’s Angel Skin necklaces, earrings and rings were found over 50 years ago, and could not be replicated today. Once this precious material is gone, it will be gone for good.

Katerina Perez wearing Assael Sardinian coral and yellow gold earrings

Katerina Perez wearing Assael Sardinian coral and yellow gold earrings

Of course – it’s impossible to cover the entire spectrum of the facts and intricacies of coral in one fine jewellery article. If you would like to learn more on the subject, a wonderful reference book is ‘Magnificent is Beyond Rare,’ from Assael.   

Trend: Ancient jewellery making techniques – Part II

continue reading

Male Adornment: The Evolution of Men’s Jewellery from the 1400s Until Today

Men's jewellery is often overlooked, yet its history is both rich and cyclical. Over the past six centuries, the popularity of male adornments has fluctuated, reflecting shifts in fashion, status, and cultural values. Here, Amanda Triossi examines the reasons behind male jewellery, along with its periods of abundance and decline.

by Amanda Triossi

Perfect Proposal: The Top 10 Engagement Ring Mistakes to Avoid 

The moment you start thinking about proposing, everything shifts. Ordinary things become significant: dinner out, a walk in the park, a glance at their jewellery box. And then comes "the ring": a symbol of love, yes, but also a silent spokesperson for everything you feel and hope for. No pressure, right?

by Claire Roberts

Couture Show 2025: The Top 10 Debutants Heading to Las Vegas 

The much anticipated Couture Show will return to Wynn Las Vegas from June 4-8, 2025, shining a spotlight on established design talent, new creatives, and international brands that are vying for attention on the global stage. Just like in previous years, I am focusing my attention on the debutants

by Katerina Perez

Designing the Future: Revealing the Winners of the Katerina Perez x Osmium Institute Design Contest

What a ride it has been, witnessing such pure creative energy and original thinking, especially with a material as rare and futuristic as osmium

by Katerina Perez

New Icons: The Latest Collections by Italian Micromosaic Master SICIS 

I was presented with two striking new collections – Icon and Colibrì – that offer different interpretations of the SICIS aesthetic. Below, I want to give you a closer look at these capsule suites and tell you more about the inspirations behind them

by Katerina Perez

Fabulous Fabrications: TAOS Presents a Trio of Watches Inspired by Couture Fashion

Occasionally, beautiful timepieces demonstrating exceptional Métiers d’Art will land on our virtual desks and result in a round-robin series of emails. In the hours after we received insights into the emerging Swiss brand TAOS, almost the entire team had seen the fabric-inspired dials of its latest creations, and we all agreed that an article was […]

by Sarah Jordan

A Century of Sparkle: Celebrating 100 Years of Art Deco at GemGenève

From May 8-11, 2025, visitors to GemGenève can immerse themselves in a showcase of antique and modern jewellery while also experiencing the innovative spirit of the 1920s and 1930s through a photographic lens. Here, I'd like to tell you more about this creative collaboration and introduce you to the brands taking part…

by Katerina Perez

Tailored Perfection: The Best Jewellery Looks of the Met Gala 2025

Not since 2003 has a Met Gala theme focused exclusively on menswear, so we had high hopes for this year’s attendees demonstrating the best of tailored suiting adorned with high jewels. Let’s take a closer look at some of the best ensembles of the evening…

by Sarah Jordan

Legacy of Love: The Dreamlike Jewels of Emirati Designer Mariyeh Ghelichkhani

Jewellery is a transmitter of memories and emotions through time, which is something that Dubai-based designer Mariyeh Ghelichkhani knows all too well. During our meeting in Dubai, we spoke about the importance of family, the sweetness of finding joy through creativity, and the ability to translate dreamy visions and deep feelings into wearable pieces…

by Katerina Perez

Celebrating Colour: 20 Uplifting Jewellery Creations by Lisa Nik

Whether you're craving a juicy mandarin garnet or an eye-catching bi-colour tourmaline, here are 20 joyful pieces that exemplify the Lisa Nik approach, as well as the inspiration behind them…

by Sarah Jordan

Watches and Wonders 2025: The Coolest Watch Novelties

With pastel pops, Pop Art influences, and playful twists on time itself, Watches and Wonders 2025 delivered a vibrant feast of creativity. Discover the fun new watches setting trends in Geneva this spring

by Rachael Taylor

White Hot: Achromatic Jewellery is Having a Moment

Let’s explore the revival of all white jewellery and discover why this look is universally complementary – and a great investment.  

by Rachael Taylor

Latest Stories

Add articles and images to your favourites. Just

Reinventing Royalty:The European-Inspired Luxury Behind Isabel Gemology

I started 2025 with a series of articles titled ‘Jeweller of the Month’ to highlight the true talent among niche designers in the jewellery industry. For May, it is Isabel Delgado, the founder of Isabel Gemology, who I would like to shine the spotlight on.

by Katerina Perez

Jewels Katerina Perez Loves

Continue Reading

Writing Adventures:Co-Authoring the Book

Paraiba: The Legacy of a Color

by Katerina Perez

Jewellery Insights straight to your inbox

Style Guide

By using this website, you agree to the storing of cookies on your device to enhance site navigation, analyze site usage, and assist in our marketing efforts. View our Privacy Policy for more information.