Collectible gemstones: Enchanting tanzanites

December 16, 2019

By Jodie Smith

5 min read

The beauty of a precious stone is not only in its rich colour and bright sparkle, but in its rarity and exclusivity, and one of the rarest stones is Tanzanite. A relatively new December birthstone – it was officially added to the list of birthstones by the American Gem Trade Association in 2002.

Tantalising tanzanite’s enchanting colour is magnificent: the deep purple-blue is charming like the boundless star-studded sky at night. Pleochroism (the ability to exhibit different colours when viewed from different angles) undoubtedly adds a certain charm to it, one can observe violet, blue and purplish red (sometimes yellow) hues when admiring it.

Veschetti 'Ortensia' ring with 7.81ct cushion cut tanzanite, emeralds and diamonds, necklace with an oval 39.05ct kunzite, oval tanzanites totaling 26.62ct, 6.28ct Colombian emeralds, and 14.20ct diamonds, and earrings with 1.38ct oval kunzites, emeralds and diamonds, all in 18k yellow gold

Veschetti 'Ortensia' ring with 7.81ct cushion cut tanzanite, emeralds and diamonds, necklace with an oval 39.05ct kunzite, oval tanzanites totaling 26.62ct, 6.28ct Colombian emeralds, and 14.20ct diamonds, and earrings with 1.38ct oval kunzites, emeralds and diamonds, all in 18k yellow gold

When Tanzanite was first unearthed, it was mistaken for sapphire. Originally named ziosite, in 1967 a Masai tribesman discovered a unique variety of the gemstone at the foothills of Mount Kilimanjaro, in Tanzania. Tiffany & Co. later renamed the stone after its country of origin and revealed it to the world the following year. At this time, the trend for collecting African art and anything relating to the continent was peaking in popularity. Tiffany & Co. understood that branding the gemstone to its primarily American audience would enhance the novelty of this new discovery.

Tiffany & Co. Blue Book 2018 collection brooch in platinum with an emerald-cut tanzanite of over 27 carats, round and marquise sapphires, over five total carats, and round brilliant diamonds

Tiffany & Co. Blue Book 2018 collection brooch in platinum with an emerald-cut tanzanite of over 27 carats, round and marquise sapphires, over five total carats, and round brilliant diamonds

 Fabio Salini cuff with 22.20ct tanzanite, sapphires and diamonds in white gold

Fabio Salini cuff with 22.20ct tanzanite, sapphires and diamonds in white gold

 Boucheron ring with tanzanite, enamel and pearls in white gold

Boucheron ring with tanzanite, enamel and pearls in white gold

 Piaget 'Blue Emotion' manchette cuff with 24.36ct tanzanite and diamonds in feather marquetry white gold

Piaget 'Blue Emotion' manchette cuff with 24.36ct tanzanite and diamonds in feather marquetry white gold

 Ananya 'Celeste' tanzanite with diamonds in white gold

Ananya 'Celeste' tanzanite with diamonds in white gold

 Boucheron ring with 43.95ct cabochon tanzanite with diamonds on white gold

Boucheron ring with 43.95ct cabochon tanzanite with diamonds on white gold

 Picchiotti ring with tanzanite, tsavorites and diamonds in yellow gold

Picchiotti ring with tanzanite, tsavorites and diamonds in yellow gold

To this day, tanzanite is still only found in one mine in the Arusha province of Tanzania, whose resources are already almost exhausted. This has caused tanzanite prices to grow exorbitantly over the last decade, and has encouraged jewellery designers to include it in their significant pieces. Often, tanzanite takes centre stage in a cocktail ring accented by colourless diamonds, or in a pendant necklace. 

Henn of London necklace with 61.11ct tanzanite, earrings with 48.83ct tanzanite, ring with 18.27ct tanzanite, all with diamonds and enamel in white gold

Henn of London necklace with 61.11ct tanzanite, earrings with 48.83ct tanzanite, ring with 18.27ct tanzanite, all with diamonds and enamel in white gold

The Italian brand Veschetti favours tanzanite as the focal point of motifs within grand sautoirs, whereas Piaget employs the stone at the centre of a hero cuff, surrounded by delicate feather marquetry. Picchiotti celebrated colour, using tanzanite in one of their showstopping cocktail rings, and Tiffany & Co. return to tanzanite time and time again; in their 2018 Blue Book, a tanzanite brooch was presented, alongside the star of their ‘Paper Flowers’ collection being a series of interlacing flower shapes embellished with tanzanites. The traditional British house Henn of London present an impressive tanzanite and diamond sautoir suite, whereas Dior combine a large step-cut tanzanite with a menagerie of coloured gemstones in the secret watch of their ‘Gem Dior’ collection.

Cartier cuff with tanzanite, rock crystal, diamonds and lacquer in white gold

Cartier cuff with tanzanite, rock crystal, diamonds and lacquer in white gold

 Moussaieff pendant necklace with baroque tanzanite and diamonds in white gold

Moussaieff pendant necklace with baroque tanzanite and diamonds in white gold

 Hueb 'Luminous' earrings with tanzanite and diamonds in white gold

Hueb 'Luminous' earrings with tanzanite and diamonds in white gold

 Chaumet 'Liens' ring with tanzanite and diamonds in white gold

Chaumet 'Liens' ring with tanzanite and diamonds in white gold

 Picchiotti pendant necklace with tanzanite and diamonds in white gold

Picchiotti pendant necklace with tanzanite and diamonds in white gold

 Carol Kauffman 'Class Double' earrings with tanzanite, topaz and tourmaline in enamel in yellow gold

Carol Kauffman 'Class Double' earrings with tanzanite, topaz and tourmaline in enamel in yellow gold

 Alice Ciccolini 'Memphis Candy' ring with tanzanite and lacquer in yellow gold

Alice Ciccolini 'Memphis Candy' ring with tanzanite and lacquer in yellow gold

 Tiffany&Co. 'Paper Flowers' necklace with tanzanite and diamonds in platinum

Tiffany&Co. 'Paper Flowers' necklace with tanzanite and diamonds in platinum

The rich purple-blue tones are complemented by other ‘jewel’ colours: deep blue, greens and reds are commonly matched with tanzanites, and they are often used in jewellery in emerald, baguette, cushion or cabochon cuts. Deep cuts suit the gemstone best, as more depth increases the visible saturation of the tanzanite’s colour. With the scarcity of this gemstone in mind, maybe it is sapphires that will one day be used as imitation tanzanites? 

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