Hand-Painted Jewels: A Time-Honoured Art Form Made Modern

January 21, 2022

By Katerina Perez

9 min read

To realise their ideas, contemporary jewellers have a huge array of modern techniques at their disposal, some of which are almost as complex as the structure of spaceships and microsurgery. Nevertheless, many designers remain faithful to traditional and even archaic methods. What motivates and inspires them? This is the question I posed to the founders of 7 brands who paint their jewellery by hand like Victorian jewellers.

Let’s start with a small historical digression and go back to the reign of Queen Victoria. If you look at paintings of her and other members of the royal family during public holidays, you will notice many brooches, pendants, earrings, bracelets and hair pieces. Such a colossal demand for jewellery created fertile ground for the rapid development of jewellery art: jewellery of the Victorian era, which spanned six decades, is distinguished not only by a variety of styles, motifs and designs, but also by techniques.

Hand painted rings by Anna Maccieri Rossi

Hand painted rings by Anna Maccieri Rossi

One of the most popular ‘subjects’ was the depiction of flowers, landscapes, portraits, or even entire scenes from myths or the painter’s imagination in enamel. In the past, this could have become part of a brooch, bracelet, pocket watch or any other piece of jewellery, but let’s see how this idea is being transformed by various jewellers today.

Penelope Fine Jewellery

While attending lectures on art history, the designer got acquainted with a unique enamel technique that originated in Russia two centuries ago. It took her years of searching to find a master craftsman, one of the finest in the world, who could personally hand-paint the jewellery she conceived.

Penelope Fine Jewellery hand painted scarab beetle bracelet from the Meanings Collection

Penelope Fine Jewellery hand painted scarab beetle bracelet from the Meanings Collection

Inspired by the mesmerising and mysterious language of symbols and their magical properties, I first started making Meanings jewellery as customised talismans, and over time they grew into a collection, explains Penelope. Only a few years later, a certain set of universal symbols formed a capsule collection intended for women of all generations, races and religions. Hand-painted enamel symbols, individually created in Russia by a famous icon painter, are designed to attract harmony, security, love and positive energy. A new code for general spiritual communication.

These symbols are the peacock, an icon of vision, integrity and beauty; the scarab beetle – a symbol of the beginning, the heavenly cycle and rebirth; the butterfly, which is a token of transformation and openness to the world; and the hummingbird with its representation of balance, happiness through honesty and freedom through love.

Penelope Fine Jewellery hand painted hummingbird pendant from the Meanings Collection

Penelope Fine Jewellery hand painted hummingbird pendant from the Meanings Collection

 Penelope Fine Jewellery hand painted butterfly ring from the Meanings Collection

Penelope Fine Jewellery hand painted butterfly ring from the Meanings Collection

 Penelope Fine Jewellery hand painted peacock necklace from the Meanings Collection

Penelope Fine Jewellery hand painted peacock necklace from the Meanings Collection

Anna Maccieri Rossi

Prior to launching her own brand, Anna Macchieri Rossi had been creating watches for renowned luxury brands including Cartier, Bulgari and Tiffany & Co. for over 12 years, and Jaeger-LeCoultre where she became familiar with the technique of hand painting. In fine watchmaking, we often see mother-of-pearl painting on dials, so it is not surprising that this concept was the inspiration for Anna Maccieri Rossi’s work.

Anna Maccieri Rossi hand painted Carpe Diem charm

Anna Maccieri Rossi hand painted Carpe Diem charm

I love creating works of art that express poetry and magic, and this painting technique allows you to create so many extraordinary and completely different things. All of them are made and painted by hand by my craftsmen in Italy, says Anna.

For her philosophical creations, this technique also means no limits, because its possibilities are truly endless!

Anna Maccieri Rossi hand painted ring

Anna Maccieri Rossi hand painted ring

 Anna Maccieri Rossi hand painted ring

Anna Maccieri Rossi hand painted ring

 Anna Maccieri Rossi hand painted earrings

Anna Maccieri Rossi hand painted earrings

 Anna Maccieri Rossi hand painted gemstone earrings

Anna Maccieri Rossi hand painted gemstone earrings

Jacquie Aiche

Many people are familiar with this Los Angeles brand for its jewellery made with uncut stones, but recently Jacquie’s collection has also included hand-painted rings and pendants. The painting is done by an artist in Germany, and it can take him a month and a half to finish a drawing! Why so long? He starts by carving the desired motif on the back of a transparent rock crystal cabochon using the tools he has made himself, as well as a special oil-based paste and fine diamond dust. Then he paints this peculiar intaglio with a thin layer of oil paint. The final stage is a backing made of a thin mother-of-pearl plate that shimmers slightly and favourably highlights the pattern.

Jacquie Aiche hand painted mother of pearl mushroom signet rings in 14k gold and diamonds

Jacquie Aiche hand painted mother of pearl mushroom signet rings in 14k gold and diamonds

 Jacquie Aiche hand painted mother of pearl pendants in 14k gold and diamonds

Jacquie Aiche hand painted mother of pearl pendants in 14k gold and diamonds

 Jacquie Aiche hand painted tiger on mother of pearl signet ring with diamonds in 14K gold

Jacquie Aiche hand painted tiger on mother of pearl signet ring with diamonds in 14K gold

Lito

The jewellery brand Lito uses a wide variety of techniques in its work, but for the collection “Tu es partout” (“You are everywhere”) the emphasis fell on freehand drawing. The 80 items in the collection are inspired by an apotropaic talisman: an eye that helps to achieve inner balance and preserve life values. Blue, green, brown, violet and yellow eyes are depicted on enamel pendants, rings, bracelets and earrings made of different shades of gold, with and without diamonds.

This is a surreal charm that has a different meaning for everyone. This traditional symbol of protection turns into a constant reminder: keep your eyes open, look, observe, create, live and find beauty everywhere, reads the company’s website.

Lito Russe Grand Ambre diamond necklace from the Tu Es Partout Collection

Lito Russe Grand Ambre diamond necklace from the Tu Es Partout Collection

 Lito Tu Es Partout Collection pendant

Lito Tu Es Partout Collection pendant

 Lito Petit chevalier diamond ring from the Tu Es Partout Collection

Lito Petit chevalier diamond ring from the Tu Es Partout Collection

 Lito Russe Petit Mauve chevalier ring from the Tu Es Partout Collection

Lito Russe Petit Mauve chevalier ring from the Tu Es Partout Collection

Silvia Furmanovich

The Brazilian designer Silvia Furmanovich, who venerates the rich cultures of the world, is a true creative alchemist. Her work is founded on a passion for craftsmanship and meticulous attention to detail, a love for natural materials and a choice of sophisticated techniques. In her works you can find drawings on wood, now an iconic material for Silvia. Her painted jewellery is incredibly bright and expressive, similar to objets d’art to which anyone can relate.

Silvia Furmanovich miniature painting waterfall necklace with carnelian beads and a fire opal drop

Silvia Furmanovich miniature painting waterfall necklace with carnelian beads and a fire opal drop

 Silvia Furmanovich hand painted earrings with diamonds

Silvia Furmanovich hand painted earrings with diamonds

 Silvia Furmanovich hand painted earrings

Silvia Furmanovich hand painted earrings

 Silvia Furmanovich hand painted peacock earrings with pearls

Silvia Furmanovich hand painted peacock earrings with pearls

 Silvia Furmanovich Egyptian palm tree inspired pendant with diamonds and pearls

Silvia Furmanovich Egyptian palm tree inspired pendant with diamonds and pearls

 Silvia Furmanovich hand painted earrings with asymmetric oval-shaped gemstones

Silvia Furmanovich hand painted earrings with asymmetric oval-shaped gemstones

Cathy Waterman

The Eye of Love collection is a modern interpretation of the popular 18th century jewellery practice of depicting the painted eye of a loved one. These signs of love were popular during the time of George IV but over time they have lost their relevance. Now, Cathy Waterman brings them back to life! She was inspired to take this step in her 2012 exhibition “The Look of Love”, which was held at the Birmingham Museum & Art Gallery. The designer is currently collaborating with a local artist in Los Angeles, who hand-paints pendants and rings using a photograph of a loved one’s eye. All Cathy Waterman jewellery is handcrafted in Santa Monica using recycled metals and stones only from ethical sources.

Cathy Waterman hand painted Eye of Love pendant with diamonds

Cathy Waterman hand painted Eye of Love pendant with diamonds

 Cathy Waterman hand painted Eye of Love ring with diamonds

Cathy Waterman hand painted Eye of Love ring with diamonds

 Cathy Waterman hand painted locket ring from the Eye of Love Collection

Cathy Waterman hand painted locket ring from the Eye of Love Collection

OUROBOROS

OUROBOROS is a UK-based fine jewellery brand founded by Olivia Young. Her pieces are made in Jaipur, India, using traditional techniques and styles, including styles of miniature painting that can be traced back to the Moghul period. In fact, the technique has become so refined by a handful of artisans that details as fine as human hair can be applied – the practitioners time each stroke with their breaths to ensure the perfect finish. The OUROBOROS Modern Miniatures collection features two-sided hand-painted designs inspired by the art of Jaipur and set in 18k yellow gold. Some pieces have bright pops of rough sapphires set into the gold in celebration of India’s gemstone riches. 

OUROBOROS hand painted pendant

OUROBOROS hand painted pendant

 OUROBOROS hand painted pendant

OUROBOROS hand painted pendant

 OUROBOROS hand painted pendant

OUROBOROS hand painted pendant

 OUROBOROS hand painted pendant

OUROBOROS hand painted pendant

According to Professor Semir Zeki, a neuroscientist at University College London, when we look at beautiful works of art, our brains react in the same way that they do when we fall in love. Perhaps the success of hand-painted jewellery, therefore, is that it aligns with art so closely and fires these same love connections in our brains? I believe this is a good explanation for the emotive power of such jewels.

Year of the Tiger: Jewellery to Usher in Chinese New Year 2022

continue reading

Haute Couture 2025: The 70s Depths of the Piaget Shapes of Extraleganza High Jewellery Collection

Through the Piaget Society, a circle of artists, collectors and freethinkers, the Maison helped shape the cultural zeitgeist of the 1970s.

by Claire Roberts

Haute Couture Week 2025: The Gentle Flutter of Mikimoto Les Pétales High Jewellery

Let’s take a closer look at some of the aristocratic highlights of this latest Mikimoto offering…

by Sarah Jordan

Elevated Expression: Examining The Jade Dynasty Collection by Austy Lee

Austy Lee is someone we return to time and again here at KaterinaPerez.com, largely because the designer's work never fails to impress. Let's hear what he has to say on China's most emblematic mineral…

by Sarah Jordan

Haute Couture 2025: The Biggest High Jewellery Trends to Emerge from Paris 

Transformability was a recurring theme, as were bold uses of colour, sculptural silhouettes and rare gemstones with compelling stories. Here are the key trends that defined the 2025 high jewellery season.

by Joshua Hendren

Flower Power: The Uplifting Energy of Jewels in Full Bloom 

Florals have long been a favourite in fine jewellery, and they never lose their charm. This year’s Couture show in Las Vegas proved just how inventive floral jewellery can be, bursting with colour, craftsmanship, and imagination

by Hirshi Sujanti

You’ve Got the Moves: Kinetic Jewellery with Moving Elements

Sometimes, at the Couture Show, you encounter a trend that feels perfectly attuned to the times we’re living in. This year in Las Vegas, that trend was movement. Or, more precisely, moving elements that speak to that very human desire to keep our hands busy, our senses engaged, and our minds soothed.

by Claire Roberts

Verified in Vegas: The Biggest Jewellery Trends of the Couture Show 2025

The Couture Show presents a curated view of the best in craftsmanship, design, fresh ideas and originality, which is why it’s such a vital place to forecast the ‘next big thing’. Here’s what I have gleaned from this year’s State-side events

by Sarah Jordan

Instant Charm: Celebrating New Creations with Karina Choudhrie Jewels

Let's take a closer look at the latest pieces that have emerged from Karina's incredible imagination…

by Katerina Perez

Key Facts About Gold: An Ancient Symbol of Power and Luxury

In an age where digital currencies rise and fall, gold remains a universal symbol of stability, beauty, and lasting worth. It is worn on the skin, locked in vaults, and passed down through generations as a living legacy.

by Hirshi Sujanti

Little Legends: The History and Power of Pinky Rings

Pinky rings have long carried cultural weight - from Ancient Mesopotamian seals to Egyptian signets and Japanese kamon heirlooms. Today, the style is experiencing a resurgence, thanks to contemporary designers and a growing list of high-profile wearers, including Meghan Markle, Bruno Mars, Rihanna, Victoria Beckham, Bella Hadid and Emily Ratajkowski

by Joshua Hendren

Forever in Bloom: The Timeless Charm of Flowers in Jewellery

Flowers may fade in a vase, but flowers in jewellery—they bloom eternally

by Hirshi Sujanti

Double Vision: The Art and Allure of Reversible Jewellery

With versatility driving today’s jewellery trends, reversible designs are enjoying a quiet resurgence. From transformable lockets to rotating rings and earrings that change with a flip, these reversible jewellery creations reflect a growing desire for multi-dimensional design.

by Joshua Hendren

Latest Stories

Add articles and images to your favourites. Just

Epic Evolution:Miseno Launches the Arco Collection to Celebrate a Fabulous Decade

I am pleased to present to you my highlights of the new Arco High Jewellery collection, which was formally showcased to the jewellery world at Couture from June 4-8, 2025

by Katerina Perez

Jewels Katerina Perez Loves

Continue Reading

In Conversation:Discussing Paraiba - The Legacy of a Color

with Vogue Singapore

by Katerina Perez

Jewellery Insights straight to your inbox

Style Guide

By using this website, you agree to the storing of cookies on your device to enhance site navigation, analyze site usage, and assist in our marketing efforts. View our Privacy Policy for more information.