Know-how: Unique techniques in fine jewellery creation

August 18, 2018

7 min read

The multitude of jewellery making techniques that are implemented to create modern-day precious masterpieces can astound those who are unfamiliar with the technicalities and realities of haute joaillerie. From gem setting to precious metal decoration, from ancient practices – such as engraving – to modern technologies, the breadth of possibilities allows for jewellery houses to produce astonishingly unique designs time after time.

Having viewed a dozen new collections during Paris Fashion week, I could not help but notice the trend for pieces crafted with rare methods. As with any form of art, designers of jewellery constantly strive to broaden the horizons of the new looks that can be achieved, no matter how unattainable their designs might initially seem.

Boucheron

Boucheron’s creative director Claire Chinoise had an idea which seemed exactly that – unattainable. She wanted to blend delicate flowers with precious metals and gemstones in order to create something truly unique – floral design rings that combine all the mentioned elements. As a result, nine one-of-a-kind creations named ‘Fleurs Éternelles’ were included in the ‘Nature Triomphante’ collection, dedicated to Boucheron’s 160th anniversary. Their designs are incredibly realistic interpretations of various flowers, made using an innovative preserving and stabilising technique with no chemicals or pigments. Boucheron masters actually employed real flower petals to decorate precious metal, alongside Paraiba tourmaline, Padparadscha sapphire, spessartite garnet and a host of other precious gems.

Boucheron ‘Eternal Flowers’ line ‘Pivoine Avis Varner’ ring with 4.16 carat Padparadscha sapphire, titanium, black spinels, yellow and violet sapphires

Boucheron ‘Eternal Flowers’ line ‘Pivione Coral Charm’ ring with 18.8ct Imperial topaz in red gold

The flower petals which variously inspired the 9 rings of the ‘Eternal Flowers’ from the ‘Alchemiste’ collection

<p> Boucheron ‘Eternal Flowers’ line ‘Hortensia Violet Bleu’ ring with 8.7ct indigolite tourmaline, diamonds and violet and blue sapphires in titanium</p>

Boucheron ‘Eternal Flowers’ line ‘Hortensia Violet Bleu’ ring with 8.7ct indigolite tourmaline, diamonds and violet and blue sapphires in titanium

Boucheron ‘Eternal Flowers’ line ‘Pivione Coral Charm’ ring with 18.8ct Imperial topaz in red gold

Boucheron ‘Eternal Flowers’ line ‘Hortensia Rosita’ ring with jonquil diamonds in titanium

Boucheron ‘Eternal Flowers’ line ‘Anemone Meron Bordeaux’ ring with 5.99ct violet sapphire, and yellow and blue sapphires in yellow gold

Piaget

For Paris Haute Couture week 2018, Piaget chose to continue their long-standing creative partnership between themselves and Nelly Saunier – a feather artist who has been collaborating with the Swiss brand since 2015. Within the new extensive ‘Sunlight Escape’ collection, four unique jewels with feather marquetry were introduced: two variations of cuff bracelets and another two sets of drop earrings. All of them displayed an intriguing combination of feather and gold marquetry alternating in palettes of vivid blue tones or all white. The earrings with detachable drops and matching cuffs, one of which featured an impressive 24.36 carat tanzanite, gave the impression of unidentifiable texture and delicacy.

Creation of the Piaget ‘Golden Sunlight’ cuff from the ‘Warming Lights’ line with diamonds and feather marquetry in yellow gold

<p> Piaget ‘Blue Emotion’ manchette cuff from the ‘Exalting Sights’ line with 24.36ct emerald cut tanzanite, 9.45ct diamonds and feather marquetry in white gold</p>

Piaget ‘Blue Emotion’ manchette cuff from the ‘Exalting Sights’ line with 24.36ct emerald cut tanzanite, 9.45ct diamonds and feather marquetry in white gold

Piaget ‘Golden Sunlight’ cuff from the ‘Warming Lights’ line with diamonds and feather marquetry in yellow gold

Piaget transformable ‘Golden Sunlight’ earrings from the ‘Warming Lights’ line with diamonds and feather marquetry in yellow gold

Buccellati

The Italian house of Buccellati is known for specialising in decorative gold techniques such as engraving and open work. With the latest collection of high jewellery being no exception, Andrea Buccellati chose a fine honeycomb pattern to adorn his pieces. This is the antithesis of the complex techniques employed by other brands; with Buccellati referring back to traditional crafts, whilst still presenting a modern look for their visually arresting jewellery.

Buccellati ‘Rosa Dei Venti’ transformable earrings with 228 diamonds in white gold

Buccellati ‘Azzurra’ necklace with pear cut tourmaline and 4.31ct diamonds in white gold

Buccellati ‘Phoenix’ tiara with 10.00ct diamonds in openwork white gold

Buccellati ‘Volta Celeste’ bracelet with 16.81ct diamonds in yellow and white gold

Lorenz Baumer

Choosing to combine bright pink and purple sapphires, mandarin garnet, indicolite and other vibrant gems with black lacquer, Lorenz Baumer’s ‘Black Magic’ collection represented an intriguing mix of colours juxtaposed with black settings. Inspired by artists such as Soulages and Hartung, the black lacquer petals of the ‘Rayonnement’ ring, bracelet and earrings were textured to achieve a ‘satin’ (matte) finish and engraved with lateral lines. This design technique provides an interplay between the different surfaces; drawing the eye’s attention and creating the impression of a multitude of layers.

<p>Lorenz Bäumer ‘Rayonnement’ earrings from ‘Black Magic’ collection with 6.37ct green tourmaline, purple and pink sapphires in white gold plated with black rhodium </p>

Lorenz Bäumer ‘Rayonnement’ earrings from ‘Black Magic’ collection with 6.37ct green tourmaline, purple and pink sapphires in white gold plated with black rhodium

<p> Lorenz Bäumer ‘Rayonnement’ bangle from ‘Black Magic’ collection with 20.30ct aquamarine, purple and pink sapphires in white gold plated with black rhodium</p>

Lorenz Bäumer ‘Rayonnement’ bangle from ‘Black Magic’ collection with 20.30ct aquamarine, purple and pink sapphires in white gold plated with black rhodium

<p> Lorenz Bäumer ‘Rayonnement’ ring from ‘Black Magic’ collection with 17.79ct pink tourmaline, black diamonds, purple and pink sapphires in white gold plated with black rhodium </p>

Lorenz Bäumer ‘Rayonnement’ ring from ‘Black Magic’ collection with 17.79ct pink tourmaline, black diamonds, purple and pink sapphires in white gold plated with black rhodium

Chopard

Chopard’s ‘The Song of the Bluebird’ earrings in lapis lazuli and jadeite represent a milestone for the luxury house in terms of technical innovations, utilising an obscure version of the grand feu enamelling technique. The blue leaf motifs have been designed in white gold, on top of which creased silver sheet has been added to create more texture. Finally, several layers of enamel powder are placed on top before the component is heated to around 1000 degrees.

Chopard ‘The Song of the Bluebird’ earrings from the 2018 Red Carpet collection in opal, grand feu enamel, lapis lazuli, jadeite and sapphires

The scope of the jewellery making techniques used to create the pieces from the latest haute joaillerie collections is incredible. This constant reaching to create new designs in unexpected ways is one of the reasons why fine jewellery is so exciting, entrancing, and enigmatic.