Dior Dior Dior: Christian Dior Lace Becomes High Jewellery

July 30, 2018

By Katerina Perez

6 min read

From 6th to 8th July 2018, at the Musée d’Art Moderne in Paris, the Dior jewellery house presented an extensive exhibition that sought to combine Christian Dior’s three favourite themes: fashion, balls and gardens. Among 220 pieces of jewellery, visitors could see celebrated creations from years gone by, as well as treasures from the new ‘Dior Dior Dior’ collection. Victoire de Castellane, the artistic director of Dior Joaillerie, continues to create a jewelled story through her work that tells about the maison’s history, and the passionate love that its founder had for the world of high fashion.

Christian Dior’s unfulfilled dream of becoming an architect had unexpected consequences: he chose to create dresses designed as though they were pieces of architecture. Meticulously structured silhouettes that serve to emphasise the female form were made predominantly from fabric mixed with lace. A true respect for the masterpieces of the house’s founder runs through the new ‘Dior Dior Dior’ collection, which has been conceived as an effort to transform the delicate lace of the famous couturier’s dresses into a dazzling and ornamental collection of jewellery. This time, Victoire de Castellane decided to take on the intricate task of twisting and intertwining the lace to form the creative basis for her jewelled ornaments, thereby bringing to life bracelets, rings, earrings and chocker necklaces that gently curve around the body.

Dior ‘Dentelle Guipure Saphir Rose’ necklace in white gold, diamonds and sapphires

Dior ‘Dentelle Guipure Saphir Rose’ necklace in white gold, diamonds and sapphires

 The making of Dior ‘Dentelle Guipure Saphir Rose’ necklace in white gold, diamonds and sapphires

The making of Dior ‘Dentelle Guipure Saphir Rose’ necklace in white gold, diamonds and sapphires

 The making of the Dior Dior Dior collection

The making of the Dior Dior Dior collection

 The making of the Dior Dior Dior collection

The making of the Dior Dior Dior collection

My task was to capture a sense of the ethereal lightness – the true superiority – of lace, which, like ribbons, silk or drapery, is essential to the vocabulary of Dior. – Victoire de Castellane

Dior ‘Dentelle Guipure Diamant Jaune’ necklace in yellow and pink gold, diamonds and yellow diamond from the Dior Dior Dior collection

Dior ‘Dentelle Guipure Diamant Jaune’ necklace in yellow and pink gold, diamonds and yellow diamond from the Dior Dior Dior collection

There are many openwork jewellery pieces within the collection – each carefully ‘woven’ from yellow, pink and white gold. The finest threads of precious metal have been turned into a single canvas, illuminated by the bright colour and light of the feature gemstones.

Dior ‘Dentelle Guipure Diamant Jaune’ necklace in yellow and pink gold, diamonds and yellow diamond

Dior ‘Dentelle Guipure Diamant Jaune’ necklace in yellow and pink gold, diamonds and yellow diamond

 Dior ‘Dentelle Tulle Saphir Rose’ palm jewellery in pink gold, diamonds and pink sapphires

Dior ‘Dentelle Tulle Saphir Rose’ palm jewellery in pink gold, diamonds and pink sapphires

 Dior ‘Dentelle Organza Diamant’ earrings in white gold, diamonds and pink sapphires

Dior ‘Dentelle Organza Diamant’ earrings in white gold, diamonds and pink sapphires

 Dior ‘Dentelle Organza Diamant’ ring in white gold, diamonds and pink sapphires

Dior ‘Dentelle Organza Diamant’ ring in white gold, diamonds and pink sapphires

 Dior ‘Dentelle Satin Rubis’ bracelet in pink gold, diamonds and rubies

Dior ‘Dentelle Satin Rubis’ bracelet in pink gold, diamonds and rubies

 Dior ‘Dentelle Satin Rubis’ ring in pink gold, diamonds and rubies

Dior ‘Dentelle Satin Rubis’ ring in pink gold, diamonds and rubies

 Dior ‘Dentelle Tulle Tourmaline Type Paraïba’ ring in yellow and white gold, diamonds, Paraiba tourmalines, emeralds, tsavorite garnets, pink sapphires and spessartite garnets

Dior ‘Dentelle Tulle Tourmaline Type Paraïba’ ring in yellow and white gold, diamonds, Paraiba tourmalines, emeralds, tsavorite garnets, pink sapphires and spessartite garnets

 Dior ‘Dentelle Tulle Tourmaline Type Paraïba’ earrings in yellow and white gold, diamonds, Paraiba tourmalines, emeralds, tsavorite garnets, pink sapphires and spessartite garnets

Dior ‘Dentelle Tulle Tourmaline Type Paraïba’ earrings in yellow and white gold, diamonds, Paraiba tourmalines, emeralds, tsavorite garnets, pink sapphires and spessartite garnets

 Dior ‘Dentelle Guipure Saphir’ double ring in white gold, diamonds and sapphire

Dior ‘Dentelle Guipure Saphir’ double ring in white gold, diamonds and sapphire

 Dior ‘Dentelle Satin Saphir’ ring in white gold, diamonds and sapphire

Dior ‘Dentelle Satin Saphir’ ring in white gold, diamonds and sapphire

 Dior ‘Dentelle Satin Saphir’ earrings in white gold, diamonds and sapphires

Dior ‘Dentelle Satin Saphir’ earrings in white gold, diamonds and sapphires

 Dior ‘Dentelle Guipure Émeraude’ ring in yellow gold, diamonds and emerald

Dior ‘Dentelle Guipure Émeraude’ ring in yellow gold, diamonds and emerald

 Dior ‘Dentelle Tulle Émeraude’ necklace in yellow gold, diamonds and emerald

Dior ‘Dentelle Tulle Émeraude’ necklace in yellow gold, diamonds and emerald

Any visitor to this exhibition in the Museum of Modern Art cannot help but notice that a riot of colours often dominates the design of Dior’s jewels. The ‘Dior Dior Dior’ palette also consists of a vast array of precious stones: emeralds, blue and pink sapphires, spessartite garnets, multi-coloured spinels and diamonds – each working to enhance the luxurious look of the pieces.

Dior ‘Dentelle Guipure Spinelle Jaune’ necklace in white gold, yellow diamond and diamonds

Dior ‘Dentelle Guipure Spinelle Jaune’ necklace in white gold, yellow diamond and diamonds

Having examined several dozen of jewels, I have come to the conclusion that this collection of high art jewellery is one of the trendiest of this Paris Haute Couture week. It includes such pieces as two-finger rings, a number of variants on the choker, as well as a palm bracelet that is joined to a ring, and asymmetrical earrings that have already become Castellane’s signature.

Dior ‘Dentelle Tulle Saphir’ necklace in white gold, diamonds and sapphire

Dior ‘Dentelle Tulle Saphir’ necklace in white gold, diamonds and sapphire

 The making of the Dior ‘Dentelle Tulle Saphir’ necklace in white gold, diamonds and sapphire

The making of the Dior ‘Dentelle Tulle Saphir’ necklace in white gold, diamonds and sapphire

 The making of the Dior ‘Dentelle Tulle Saphir’ necklace in white gold, diamonds and sapphire

The making of the Dior ‘Dentelle Tulle Saphir’ necklace in white gold, diamonds and sapphire

 Drawing of the Dior ‘Dentelle Tulle Saphir’ necklace in white gold, diamonds and sapphire

Drawing of the Dior ‘Dentelle Tulle Saphir’ necklace in white gold, diamonds and sapphire

 Dior ‘Dentelle Tulle Saphir’ necklace in white gold, diamonds and sapphire

Dior ‘Dentelle Tulle Saphir’ necklace in white gold, diamonds and sapphire

 The making of the Dior ‘Dentelle Tulle Saphir’ necklace in white gold, diamonds and sapphire

The making of the Dior ‘Dentelle Tulle Saphir’ necklace in white gold, diamonds and sapphire

 The making of the Dior ‘Dentelle Tulle Saphir’ necklace in white gold, diamonds and sapphire

The making of the Dior ‘Dentelle Tulle Saphir’ necklace in white gold, diamonds and sapphire

 The making of the Dior ‘Dentelle Tulle Saphir’ necklace in white gold, diamonds and sapphire

The making of the Dior ‘Dentelle Tulle Saphir’ necklace in white gold, diamonds and sapphire

What else is unique about this collection? If you read my article about jewellery with fancy cut diamonds that were on display during the Couture Week, you will most likely recall the Dior ring with a large diamond that has been cut in the form of a kite. In addition to this fancy form, Victoire de Castellane has used diamond disks drilled through the centre, which sparkle on the chokers and are reminiscent of the sequins that adorn Christian Dior’s classic dresses.

Dior ‘Dentelle Satin Rubis’ bracelet in pink gold, diamonds and rubies

Dior ‘Dentelle Satin Rubis’ bracelet in pink gold, diamonds and rubies

The unique ways of wearing jewellery on display at the exhibition, the asymmetric design and – of course – the rare precious stones that tempt with their beauty and originality; all of these features serve as reminders that jewellery and high fashion are truly inseparable.

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