Graziela Gems: Brazilian designer presented two stand-out jewellery lines at Couture 2019

June 21, 2019

By Katerina Perez

5 min read

Graziela Kaufman is a jewellery designer who simply adores colour, and this becomes apparent as soon as one casts an eye on her collections. Her style is defined by appreciation for vibrant gemstones that she personally sources, often from various mines in Brazil, and sets in gold as well as more unconventional metals like titanium. What makes her different is the conscious decision to constantly experiment with the minerals that adorn her collections, and this year she prepared something truly exceptional especially for the Couture show.

A few years ago Graziela sourced Midnight Aqua – a type of aquamarine, whose colour is much deeper bluish-green that we are used to. After that, the Brazilian designer surprised me with one-of-a-kind earrings and rings that featured an unusually fashioned paraiba tourmalines – not the faceted stones, but their slices. Did I expect more surprises from Graziela? Of course! And this year Graziela Kaufman made a buzz at Couture again.

Graziela Gems earrings with 24.30ct Paraiba tourmaline, watermelon tourmaline and rubellite, and ring with 5.60ct rubellite and 0.65ct Paraiba tourmaline in yellow gold

Graziela Gems earrings with 24.30ct Paraiba tourmaline, watermelon tourmaline and rubellite, and ring with 5.60ct rubellite and 0.65ct Paraiba tourmaline in yellow gold

Katerina Perez: You’re so in love with colour that you have brought two new collections; one with coloured titanium and the other with completely new coloured gemstone! Let’s talk about titanium first, what fascinates you about this metal?

Graziela Kaufman: I find it absolutely amazing that we can achieve the colour that we want by just changing the wattage during the adonizing process. You dip the titanium in a bucket of water that has an electric current and an electrolyte solution, and you get a different colour depending on the voltage. At 20 volts you get blue, at 30 volts you get purple, but the colour changes within 5 seconds once the voltage is running through, that’s why one has to be quick and extra careful when trying to achieve a certain hue. Nevertheless, it’s a very fun and interesting process!

Graziela Gems 'Titanium' collection 'Swirl' rings with diamonds in titanium

Graziela Gems 'Titanium' collection 'Swirl' rings with diamonds in titanium

KP: So, is colouring titanium the biggest challenge while working with it?

GK: No, it’s actually shaping titanium which is such a hard metal. It is not an easy task to fashion it, making one titanium piece can take anywhere between 200-400 hours of labour. For example, this new Swirl ring took about 250 hours, because it’s all hand set with diamonds. Also, one needs to keep in mind that there aren’t many people who can make titanium jewellery, especially here in the USA. Usually titanium jewellery is made in Switzerland or Italy.

Graziela Gems 'Titanium' collection earrings with diamonds in titanium and white gold

Graziela Gems 'Titanium' collection earrings with diamonds in titanium and white gold

 Graziela Gems 'Titanium' collection rings with diamonds in titanium

Graziela Gems 'Titanium' collection rings with diamonds in titanium

 Graziela Gems 'Titanium' collection large blue earcuffs with diamonds in titanium and white gold

Graziela Gems 'Titanium' collection large blue earcuffs with diamonds in titanium and white gold

 Graziela Gems 'Titanium' collection 'Swirl' rings with diamonds in titanium

Graziela Gems 'Titanium' collection 'Swirl' rings with diamonds in titanium

 Graziela Gems 'Titanium' collection ring with diamonds in titanium

Graziela Gems 'Titanium' collection ring with diamonds in titanium

 Graziela Gems 'Graziela Tourmaline' collection suite with Graziela tourmaline and diamonds in white gold

Graziela Gems 'Graziela Tourmaline' collection suite with Graziela tourmaline and diamonds in white gold

 Graziela Gems 'Graziela Tourmaline' collection suite with Graziela tourmaline, rubies and diamonds in yellow gold

Graziela Gems 'Graziela Tourmaline' collection suite with Graziela tourmaline, rubies and diamonds in yellow gold

 Graziela Gems 'Graziela Tourmaline' collection suite with Graziela tourmaline and diamonds in yellow gold

Graziela Gems 'Graziela Tourmaline' collection suite with Graziela tourmaline and diamonds in yellow gold

 Graziela Gems 'Graziela Tourmaline' collection necklace with Graziela tourmaline, sapphires, amethyst, citrine and tsavorites in yellow gold

Graziela Gems 'Graziela Tourmaline' collection necklace with Graziela tourmaline, sapphires, amethyst, citrine and tsavorites in yellow gold

KP: I think for me personally the most exciting thing is to see your brand-new ‘Tribal’ collection in real life as it features a new Graziela tourmaline that you have just discovered. It has a certain resemblance with Paraiba, but it is chemical structure is not the same…

GK: I will tell you how I discovered it: a dealer that I work with owns a few mines and sources all my Paraiba tourmalines. Recently he called me to tell that he had made a discovery at a very local show in Brazil, with literally just 20 gem dealers exhibiting. There was a family who discovered a stone that had astonishing resemblance with Paraibas. So, the dealer could not understand, how they found so many wonderful tourmalines! And the family’s answer was: “these are not Paraiba tourmalines, they are our tourmalines and they are different!” So, my dealer went to the mine with them and confirmed that the tourmalines were all natural, then he showed me the rough.

Graziela Gems 'Graziela Tourmaline' collection earrings with 9.53ct of Graziela tourmaline, and ring in 4.7ct of Graziela tourmaline and ruby, both with citrine and diamonds in yellow gold

Graziela Gems 'Graziela Tourmaline' collection earrings with 9.53ct of Graziela tourmaline, and ring in 4.7ct of Graziela tourmaline and ruby, both with citrine and diamonds in yellow gold

KP: Obviously you sent it to the labs and that’s how you discovered the chemical composition lacked copper…

GK: I sent it to the GIA the next day and it turned out that the properties of these gems were exactly the same as of Brazilian Paraibas except there was no copper. It is this specific chemical element that is responsible for creating neon effect and even though it was missing, the newly-discovered tourmaline boasted bright ‘swimming pool water’ colour.

Graziela Gems 'Graziela Tourmaline' collection ring with 7.89ct of Graziela tourmaline and diamonds, earrings with 5.02ct of Graziela tourmaline, sapphires, tsavorite, citrine, amethyst and ruby, both in yellow gold

Graziela Gems 'Graziela Tourmaline' collection ring with 7.89ct of Graziela tourmaline and diamonds, earrings with 5.02ct of Graziela tourmaline, sapphires, tsavorite, citrine, amethyst and ruby, both in yellow gold

 Graziela Gems 'Graziela Tourmaline' collection suite with Graziela tourmaline, rubies, sapphires, tsavorite, citrine, amethyst and diamonds in yellow gold

Graziela Gems 'Graziela Tourmaline' collection suite with Graziela tourmaline, rubies, sapphires, tsavorite, citrine, amethyst and diamonds in yellow gold

It is rare for a brand to simultaneously present two innovations at the Couture show; but for Graziela Gems this is simply a reaction to what consumers wants – adorn themselves with something unique and different. It can be specifically applied to the gem which no-one else in fine jewellery has introduced before!

Maison Tabbah: 150 Years of Heritage Arrived at Couture 2019

continue reading

Exceptional Splendour: Jaipur Gems Celebrates 50 Years with Abu Dhabi Opening and New High Jewels 

Let me take you on a behind-the-scenes tour of the new Abu Dhabi boutique and share some of my sparkling highlights

by Katerina Perez

Radiating Confidence: The Mother-Daughter Energy Behind Growing Brand Aponine

As one of this year’s Couture show debutants, Turkish brand Aponine impressed me with its blend of colourful creativity, timeless elegance, and stylish femininity. Let’s take a closer look…

by Katerina Perez

Sensual Silhouettes: Jewels with Curves in All the Right Places

Is it getting hot in here, or is it just us? As jewellers swap sharp lines for shapely swirls, we look at new collections that are embracing the raw power of sensuality inspired by the female form

by Rachael Taylor

Artistic Realms: The Enchanting Natural World of Histoire D’Elle

I had the pleasure of speaking with Pascale Van Maele, the Brand Manager of Histoire d'Elle, which celebrates the deep-rooted connection between quiet femininity, elegance and natural forms. Let's explore together…

by Sarah Jordan

Spinel Stories: Celebrating the Special Allure of Spinels with the House of Gübelin 

I visited the Geneva boutique of the family-owned business to indulge my passion for this overlooked gemstone and explore some of its beautiful creations…

by Katerina Perez

Golden Hour: Cosmic Creations in the Chanel Reach for the Stars High Jewellery Collection

The Reach for the Stars collection bounces between cosmic constellations of diamonds, elaborate, almost mythological neckwear, and starbursts of coloured stones, all with the Maison’s Parisian flair

by Sarah Jordan

Ultimate Guide to Promise Rings: What They Mean, How to Wear One and Where to Buy

While the promise ring's meaning has evolved, its emotional weight remains, making it especially popular among Gen Z and millennial couples seeking the perfect, personal pre-engagement jewel

by Claire Roberts

Exquisite Escapes: The Idyllic Inspirations Behind the Diorexquis High Jewellery Collection

In early May 2025, Dior Joaillerie's Artistic Director Victoire de Castellane showcased an unprecedented high jewellery collection, Diorexquis, to more than 300 VIPs at the Château de la Colle Noire in the heart of Provence. Let's take a closer look…

by Katerina Perez

Millionaire Products: Celebrating the No-Expense-Spared Bvlgari Polychroma High Jewellery Collection

Bvlgari is opening a magnificent new chapter in the world of high jewellery, and high jewellery watches with the Polychroma collection. Here's what I have discovered so far…

by Katerina Perez

Sea of Wonder: Celebrating the Ocean’s Endless Bounty with the Tiffany & Co. Blue Book 2025

Here are some of the creations that became an integral part of the Tiffany & Co. underwater world, including starfish, crashing waves and sea turtles…

by Katerina Perez

Latest Stories

Add articles and images to your favourites. Just

Epic Evolution:Miseno Launches the Arco Collection to Celebrate a Fabulous Decade

I am pleased to present to you my highlights of the new Arco High Jewellery collection, which was formally showcased to the jewellery world at Couture from June 4-8, 2025

by Katerina Perez

Jewels Katerina Perez Loves

Continue Reading

In Conversation:Discussing Paraiba - The Legacy of a Color

with Vogue Singapore

by Katerina Perez

Jewellery Insights straight to your inbox

Style Guide

By using this website, you agree to the storing of cookies on your device to enhance site navigation, analyze site usage, and assist in our marketing efforts. View our Privacy Policy for more information.