Unique techniques: Unusual gemstone setting methods – Part One

November 7, 2018

By Jodie Smith

5 min read

Gemstone setting is a craft which is uniquely rare, time-consuming and demanding. Pavé and claw or prong settings are the traditional and popular methods of affixing gems because these are both literally and figuratively safe, creating a classic look without drawing attention away from the stones. However, this article is not going to be about the traditional – on the contrary – I want to explore some unconventional gemstone setting techniques, as well as the effect that they have on the overall look of a jewel.

Vhernier

All of us are familiar with the traditional pavé technique, in which the gems are set side by side to form an illusion of a glittering veil. Italian brand Vhernier has developed its own version of this method and named it ‘eyeliner pavé’. Developed for Vhernier’s 20-year anniversary celebration; it bears similarities to the snow setting in haute horologie – with a few notable exceptions. Firstly, the gems are not set next to each other so closely as to eliminate the appearance of the metal. Secondly, the prongs holding the stones are not visible on the surface and, thirdly, their quality is paramount to Vhernier’s design; so each diamond is at least of F colour, VVS clarity, and of excellent cut. The varying sizes of diamonds in Vhernier’s designs and the spacing between the settings purposely call attention to the apparent casualness with which the stones are arranged – with this technique the Italian house emulates the effortless chic for which Italy is renowned.

Vhernier 'Verso' earrings with eyeliner pavé set brown diamonds in 18k white gold

Vhernier 'Verso' earrings with eyeliner pavé set brown diamonds in 18k white gold

 Vhernier 'Vague' earrings with eyeliner pavé set brown diamonds in 18k white gold

Vhernier 'Vague' earrings with eyeliner pavé set brown diamonds in 18k white gold

 Vhernier 'Eclisse' earrings with eyeliner pavé set diamonds in 18k white gold

Vhernier 'Eclisse' earrings with eyeliner pavé set diamonds in 18k white gold

 Vhernier 'Verso' earrings with eyeliner pavé set diamonds in 18k white gold

Vhernier 'Verso' earrings with eyeliner pavé set diamonds in 18k white gold

 Vhernier 'Calla' necklace with brown diamonds in hawk's eye and 18k rose gold

Vhernier 'Calla' necklace with brown diamonds in hawk's eye and 18k rose gold

 Vhernier 'Calla' necklace with brown diamonds in ox's eye and 18k rose gold

Vhernier 'Calla' necklace with brown diamonds in ox's eye and 18k rose gold

 Vhernier 'Calla' necklace with diamonds in ebony and 18k white gold

Vhernier 'Calla' necklace with diamonds in ebony and 18k white gold

Stenzhorn

One style which I never tire of seeing is the invisible gemstone setting, frequently showcased by Stenzhorn. ‘Invisible’ in this case refers to the fact that each stone is set extremely closely to one another with no metal showing up on the surface. Traditionally square cut stones are used, but Stenzhorn’s latest ‘Ice Zeit’ collection features baguette cut diamonds, whose facets and well as lack of visible settings replicate shards of ice. Former collections such as ‘Ovidio’ use identically-shaped Asscher or emerald cut gems to create a seamless ‘paving’. Stenzhorn’s ‘Muse’ collection takes full advantage of this setting style by marrying gems so closely together that they appear to be one larger gem, arranged as though each stone comprised a set of facets.

Katerina Perez wears Stenzhorn 'Antartide' diamond necklace from the 'Iced Zeit' collection with tapered baguette cut diamonds, and diamond earrings with asscher and step cut diamonds, both in 18k white gold

Katerina Perez wears Stenzhorn 'Antartide' diamond necklace from the 'Iced Zeit' collection with tapered baguette cut diamonds, and diamond earrings with asscher and step cut diamonds, both in 18k white gold

 Stenzhorn necklace from the 'Iced Zeit' collection with asscher, carré and step cut diamonds in 18k white gold

Stenzhorn necklace from the 'Iced Zeit' collection with asscher, carré and step cut diamonds in 18k white gold

 Stenzhorn rings from the 'Iced Zeit' collection with asscher, carré and step cut diamonds in 18k white gold

Stenzhorn rings from the 'Iced Zeit' collection with asscher, carré and step cut diamonds in 18k white gold

Boghossian

The Swiss jeweller Boghossian specialises in the ‘Art of Inlay’ – a unique type of setting with one stone being inserted into the other, highlighting the beauty of their contrasts. Hard mineral stones, gemstones and mother-of-pearl are used to achieve visually intriguing combinations of colour. Inlay dates back to Ancient Egypt, where inserting contrasting materials into one another as a decorative technique was first established. It reached the zenith of its popularity during the Mughal Empire in the 17th century, and Boghossian has adapted and re-invented this practice in their own inimitable style for the 21st century.

Boghossian ring with vivid yellow diamond, mother of pearl, and accenting diamonds in titanium and 18k white gold

Boghossian ring with vivid yellow diamond, mother of pearl, and accenting diamonds in titanium and 18k white gold

 Boghossian 'Kissing Gems' ring with  kite cut diamond inlaid in Paraiba tourmaline, and accenting diamonds in 18k white gold

Boghossian 'Kissing Gems' ring with kite cut diamond inlaid in Paraiba tourmaline, and accenting diamonds in 18k white gold

 Boghossian 'Inlay' ring with marquise cut diamond inlaid in fantasy cut Paraiba tourmaline, and accenting diamonds in 18k white gold

Boghossian 'Inlay' ring with marquise cut diamond inlaid in fantasy cut Paraiba tourmaline, and accenting diamonds in 18k white gold

 Boghossian 'Inlay' ring with pear cut diamond inlaid in Paraiba tourmaline, further inlaid in turquoise and accented with diamonds in 18k white gold

Boghossian 'Inlay' ring with pear cut diamond inlaid in Paraiba tourmaline, further inlaid in turquoise and accented with diamonds in 18k white gold

 Boghossian 'Inlay' earrings with inlaid oval cut diamonds in carved morganite, accented by diamonds in 18k rose gold

Boghossian 'Inlay' earrings with inlaid oval cut diamonds in carved morganite, accented by diamonds in 18k rose gold

 Boghossian 'Inlay'  parure with Paraiba tourmaline, chalcedony, turquoise, quartz and diamond in 18k white gold

Boghossian 'Inlay' parure with Paraiba tourmaline, chalcedony, turquoise, quartz and diamond in 18k white gold

Hemmerle

Reverse setting gems is one of the techniques that various jewellers attempt, but the brand who defies trends and even creates them – Hemmerle – has explored it the most frequently. Setting a variety of gemstones with the culet facing up, towards the wearer, is an audacious technique which is time-consuming, as all stones need to match each other in colour hue and depth of cut. Reverse setting undoubtedly upturns all conventions about ways to display gems – and the spiked surface adds an edgy feel to any fine jewellery which employs this technique.

Hemmerle earrings with green tourmalines and demantoid garnets in white gold - courtesy of Hemmerle

Hemmerle earrings with green tourmalines and demantoid garnets in white gold - courtesy of Hemmerle

 Hemmerle earrings with aquamarines in aluminium and white gold - courtesy of Hemmerle

Hemmerle earrings with aquamarines in aluminium and white gold - courtesy of Hemmerle

 Hemmerle earrings with demantoid garnets and peridots in white gold and silver - courtesy of Hemmerle

Hemmerle earrings with demantoid garnets and peridots in white gold and silver - courtesy of Hemmerle

 Hemmerle earrings with spessartite garnets and sapphires in copper and white gold - courtesy of Hemmerle

Hemmerle earrings with spessartite garnets and sapphires in copper and white gold - courtesy of Hemmerle

There are so many unusual gemstone settings to explore that one article would not suffice – I am continuing this theme in my next feature, examining some of the more dynamic, innovative and contemporary styles of setting which are used by fine jewellery designers across the world.

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