Anna Maccieri Rossi: “I do not search for beauty, I search for magic”

May 20, 2019

By Katerina Perez

5 min read

Having spent more than 12 years designing timepieces for such world-leading luxury brands as Cartier, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Bulgari and Tiffany & Co., Anna Maccieri Rossi set about on a new venture by establishing her own namesake brand. The Italian designer chose an unbeaten path for her own business, and merged Metiers D’art skills of watchmaking with the art of high jewellery. This resulted in a completely new and unexpected line of precious pieces – one that celebrates the beauty of two very similar and yet very different art forms.

Anna Maccieri Rossi is obsessed with her new design direction, its technicalities and the quality she provides to her clients. She creates pieces that boast volume and personality, preserving the lightness of a true jewel at the same time. Constantly facing challenges, the Italian designer feels lucky to be surrounded by very talented and experienced artisans, who support her in creating these outstanding pieces. Debuting her collection at the Couture Show in Las Vegas, Anna Maccieri Rossi took some time to speak with me about her creative journey, her years in watch design and her vision of the jewellery she creates.
Anna Maccieri Rossi 'Wolf' collection open ended ring with hand painted mother of pearl, diamond, and labrodite in white gold

Anna Maccieri Rossi 'Wolf' collection open ended ring with hand painted mother of pearl, diamond, and labrodite in white gold

 Anna Maccieri Rossi 'ORA' collection open ended ring with citrine and diamonds in yellow gold

Anna Maccieri Rossi 'ORA' collection open ended ring with citrine and diamonds in yellow gold

 Anna Maccieri Rossi 'ORA' collection 'Chevalier' ring with mother of pearl, guilloché enamel, diamonds in white and yellow gold

Anna Maccieri Rossi 'ORA' collection 'Chevalier' ring with mother of pearl, guilloché enamel, diamonds in white and yellow gold

 Anna Maccieri Rossi 'ORA' collection 'Chevalier' ring with mother of pearl, sapphires and diamonds in white and yellow gold

Anna Maccieri Rossi 'ORA' collection 'Chevalier' ring with mother of pearl, sapphires and diamonds in white and yellow gold

Katerina Perez: Can you tell me about the journey that led you to start your namesake brand?

Anna Maccieri Rossi: For a while, I had an idea of introducing watch world and movement to jewellery, I simply couldn’t stop thinking about it, it was what I call a ‘creative urgency’. The desire to create jewellery that is truly inspired by the theme of time never left me. I feel that it is a tribute to the memory through imagination, as memory is able to connect us to our roots and tradition; while imagination can inspire us and brings us to the future. Memory is our essence. Imagination is our dream.

Anna Maccieri Rossi 'Wolf' collection pendant with painted and engraved mother of pearl, sapphires and diamonds in white gold

Anna Maccieri Rossi 'Wolf' collection pendant with painted and engraved mother of pearl, sapphires and diamonds in white gold

KP: How has your heritage in watches has informed your jewellery design style?

AMR: Actually, I started my professional career as a jewellery designer and gradually trained to be a senior watch designer. This evolution changed me, and made me look at the projects in a new way: I do not search for beauty, I search for magic. I love when objects contain stories, when they have a soul, when they function, move. I look for the unexpected and create timeless amulets that evoke emotions and can make you dream.

Anna Maccieri Rossi 'Wolf' collection open ended ring with hand painted mother of pearl, diamond, and labrodite in white gold

Anna Maccieri Rossi 'Wolf' collection open ended ring with hand painted mother of pearl, diamond, and labrodite in white gold

KP: Do you believe that there are any limits to mechanical jewellery design?

AMR: Limits are the challenges we face. They exist in order for us to overcome them, learn from them, find solutions and improve. I personally never think about limits but about opportunities – my father taught me this. A watch designer never stops studying, researching, trying to overcome constraints. The world belongs to the bravest, so one has to always be daring!

Anna Maccieri Rossi's creative process

Anna Maccieri Rossi's creative process

 Anna Maccieri Rossi's creative process

Anna Maccieri Rossi's creative process

 Anna Maccieri Rossi's creative process

Anna Maccieri Rossi's creative process

 Anna Maccieri Rossi's creative process

Anna Maccieri Rossi's creative process

KP: What fascinates you about jewellery design?

AMR: The entire process, it is like an adventure: every phase has its own pleasure and challenge. I’m the person who at any time of day or night has an idea or ‘illumination’ and need to draw it on what is handy: a train ticket, a napkin at a restaurant, sand on the seashore.

Anna Maccieri Rossi 'Teatro' collection cuff with mechanical movement, diamonds, hand painted mother of pearl and sapphires in white gold

Anna Maccieri Rossi 'Teatro' collection cuff with mechanical movement, diamonds, hand painted mother of pearl and sapphires in white gold

KP: I get the feeling that your designs are communicative, and your jewellery interacts with its wearer. Was this a conscious ambition or an unintended consequence?

AMR: Life is not only one thing, one instant, one shade… It is a succession of events, stories, emotions. I love the idea of bringing awareness of it to the wearer and giving possibility to play, touch, enjoy my jewellery in a very personal way. I want to express grace and tell a very intimate story through my collections. That is why the first one – ’Teatro’ – features a disk and, as on stage, you can see different scenes, experience feelings when watching a disk moving slowly, gently without stopping.

Anna Maccieri Rossi 'Sunset Sunrise' collection pendant with painted mother of pearl and diamonds in yellow gold

Anna Maccieri Rossi 'Sunset Sunrise' collection pendant with painted mother of pearl and diamonds in yellow gold

KP: Can fine jewellery be a part of a modern, practical lifestyle?

AMR: Absolutely yes! I love it. There are no rules anymore on what you can or can’t wear. Today a jewel can be worn with irony, lightness, pleasure, and it is all a matter of balance to me. You can wear a diamond on a white t-shirt, as it no longer represents the ‘status’ of a person, but it expresses one’s joy, personality and the ability to be versatile. Don’ t be afraid to wear jewellery and to enjoy it. Choose the one that makes you feel good and, most of all, that is 100% YOU. Don’t cover, shine!

Carol Kauffmann: ‘Botanica’ and ‘Venezia’ collections debut at Couture 2019

continue reading

Nature’s Folio: The Boucheron Untamed Nature High Jewellery Collection

Be prepared to feel transported to the French countryside, somewhere in the 19th century, armed with only a graphite pencil and the very earliest monochrome camera…

by Sarah Jordan

Galentine Gifts: Jewels to Celebrate Female Friendships this Valentine’s Day

If you are searching for the perfect present to spoil the hero BFFs in your universe, start with this shopping guide by Rachael Taylor

by Rachael Taylor

Unique Proposals: Alternative Engagement Ring Designs for 2025

This year, it's all change, with some of the key alternative engagement ring trends for 2025 representing a very real evolution of this most classic of jewels

by Claire Roberts

Ready for Love: Heart-Shaped Jewels for the Perfect Valentine’s Day

Find the perfect heart for your lover with Rachael Taylor’s guide to the latest designs, from chubby diamonds to gold embroidery and magical opals

by Rachael Taylor

Chain Reaction: Shells Reinvented with the Melanie Georgacopoulos Katina Collection

I spoke to Melanie to discover more about her latest, innovative offering…

by Sarah Jordan

Proudly Indian: The Myriad Facets of Zoya from the House of TATA

Let me take you behind the scenes of my visit and highlight some of the wonders I discovered…

by Katerina Perez

Mineral Masterpieces: Robert Procop on the Renowned 100 Carats Exhibition 

Let me take you behind the scenes of this important suite of centennial gems…

by Katerina Perez

Mocha Mousse: Getting Cosy with the Pantone Colour of the Year 2025

In keeping with its 25-year tradition, the Pantone Color Institute provided the fashion industry with a little winter pick-me-up back in December with the unveiling of its ‘Colour of the Year’ for 2025

by Katerina Perez

Mocha-Mousse_Simple-Pleasures-from-Pantone_2025_Katerina-Perez-scaled

Latest Stories

Add articles and images to your favourites. Just

Gem Focus:Brazil Gem Commerce

Discover a company specialising in the cutting and trading of Brazilian and African precious gems, including Paraiba, rubellite and morganite

by Katerina Perez

Continue Reading

Ask Katerina:Diamond Jewellery Styling Tips for Modern Dressing

Here are some of the answers I gave during the presentation to aid your jewellery dressing…

by Katerina Perez

Jewellery Insights straight to your inbox

Style Guide

By using this website, you agree to the storing of cookies on your device to enhance site navigation, analyze site usage, and assist in our marketing efforts. View our Privacy Policy for more information.