Back to Black: The Art of Monochrome in Jewellery Design

September 22, 2020

9 min read

Take a look around you and, at first glance, parts of the world may appear black or white. But if you look carefully, it is rare to spot something that is completely monochrome. Nature abhors monotony, which is why the world is filled with colours of every shade and hue. Perhaps that is why black and white objects crafted by human hands seem to draw our attention like moths to a flame.

I can’t help but associate the black and white palette with certain, very specific things: historical cinematography, piano keys and the Buddhist Yin and Yang symbol. Each of these phenomena contains the notion of antitheses as if inviting us to solve this visual conundrum and find some sort of harmonious or blissful reward. However, it is far from easy to find a balance between these two shades, both in a literal and a figurative sense. Perhaps this is the wisdom and art of life. I want to share with you some examples of successful creative solutions to this recurring problem, which will show you that, aesthetically, anything is possible.

De Beers Chapman's Zebra medallion necklace with diamonds and grey mother-of-pearl, from the Portraits of Nature high jewellery collection

De Beers Chapman's Zebra diamond and grey mother-of-pearl fringe necklace

I put it to you that, even to those with barely any knowledge of the fashion industry, the design of a classic Chanel suit will still be familiar to them. The founder of the brand, Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel, strongly believed that women should look graceful and elegant without compromising on comfort. The fashion designer is known for having introduced elements of men’s clothing into her outfits – unifying both Yin and Yang – and she favoured the classic combination of black and white. Mademoiselle Chanel saw the world in monochrome for it was these elegant and simple opposites that dominated her collections. Later, this colour palette found traction in the jewels of Chanel and in turn became mainstream the world over, inspiring jewellers to see black and white with fresh eyes.

SICIS micromosaic Panda watch in white gold, set with diamonds, black diamonds and emeralds

The Panda watch is part of the Animalia collection, which uses the nano-mosaic technique to give the dials a three-dimensional, motion-filled look

They discovered a new monochrome palette of gems. Black diamonds, enamels, varnishes, ebony and onyx, and colourless diamonds, pearls, and mother-of-pearl that embodied the purity of white. Let’s take a look at the results.

Nikos Koulis

Black enamel and diamond Oui cuff bracelet

Akillis

Capture in Motion rings with black and white diamonds set in black titanium and white gold

Etho Maria

Diamond and black enamel cuff bracelet

Vhernier

Trottola earrings in black titanium and diamonds

Roberto Coin

Roberto Coin Fleur de Lis ring in white gold with black and white diamonds

Piaget

Limelight Exceptional secret watch necklace, crafted from 18-carat white gold and set with baguette-cut diamonds

Boucheron

Wladimir ring set with black sapphires, tsavorites and diamonds in white gold, from the Paris Vu de 26 high jewellery collection

Picchiotti

Luna drop earrings in black enamel and diamonds

Stephen Webster

Dynamite Shattered earrings in 18 carat white gold, with tapered baguette-cut and trilliant-cut white diamonds, and black enamel

Tasaki

MG Sliced freshwater peacock pearl and diamond necklace

Boucheron

Quatre Black Edition pavé diamond bands in white gold and black PVD

Cartier

Zebra bangle from the L'Odyssée de Cartier Parcours d'un Style high jewellery collection, set with onyx and diamonds

Cartier

Résonances de Cartier Clair Obscur ring, set with a pear shape black diamond contrasted with colourless diamonds

Harry Winston

Kaleidoscope high jewellery watch, set with black and white diamonds

Nikos Koulis

Black enamel and diamond band in white gold

Buccellati

Black and white enamel Opera pendant in yellow gold

Audemars Piguet

Millenary Zebra watch, set with onyx and diamonds in 18 carat white gold

Verdura

Maltese black jade and mammoth ivory cuffs, set with black and white diamonds

Chanel

Tweed de Chanel Graphique onyx and diamond bracelet in white gold

Bvlgari

Cinemagia Action! black zirconium and diamond high jewellery choker

Chanel

Fleur de Laque ring from the Coromandel high jewellery collection, decorated with lacquer and mother-of-pearl

De Beers

Chapman's Zebra diamond and grey mother-of-pearl medallion necklace

Ortaea

Black and white diamond Princess of Monaco cuff and ring in 18 carat blackened and white gold

Van Cleef & Arpels

Diamond and onyx Cosmos earrings in white gold

Picchiotti

Luna black mother-of-pearl pendant necklace with diamonds

WORDS

Katerina Perez is a jewellery insider, journalist and brand consultant with more than 15 years’ experience in the jewellery sector. Paris-based, Katerina has worked as a freelance journalist and content editor since 2011, writing articles for international publications. To share her jewellery knowledge and expertise, Katerina founded this website and launched her @katerina_perez Instagram in 2013.

MADE WITH:

Zirconium Titanium Pearl Onyx Mother-of-pearl Enamel Diamonds Black Diamond

JEWELLERY TYPE:

Watches Ring Necklace Earrings Cuff Chocker Bracelet

BRANDS:

Vhernier Verdura Van Cleef&Arpels Tasaki Stephen Webster Sicis Roberto Coin Picchiotti Piaget Ortaea Nikos Koulis Harry Winston Etho Maria De Beers Chanel Cartier Bulgari Buccellati Boucheron Audemars Piguet Akillis

Jewellery Styling

Modern Jewellery Icons #4: Bvlgari’s Tubogas Bracelet

Jewellery Insights straight to your inbox.

Haute Couture 2025: The Unconventional Lines of the Vhernier Ardis High Jewellery Collection

Let's take a closer look at the pieces that launched at Paris Haute Couture week, including the sculptural necklaces we simply couldn't leave without photographing.

by Sarah Jordan

Jewellery Collections

Haute Couture 2025: The 70s Depths of the Piaget Shapes of Extraleganza High Jewellery Collection

Through the Piaget Society, a circle of artists, collectors and freethinkers, the Maison helped shape the cultural zeitgeist of the 1970s.

by Claire Roberts

Jewellery Collections

Haute Couture Week 2025: The Gentle Flutter of Mikimoto Les Pétales High Jewellery

Let’s take a closer look at some of the aristocratic highlights of this latest Mikimoto offering…

by Sarah Jordan

Jewellery Knowledge

Elevated Expression: Examining The Jade Dynasty Collection by Austy Lee

Austy Lee is someone we return to time and again here at KaterinaPerez.com, largely because the designer's work never fails to impress. Let's hear what he has to say on China's most emblematic mineral…

by Sarah Jordan

Jewellery Trends

Haute Couture 2025: The Biggest High Jewellery Trends to Emerge from Paris

Transformability was a recurring theme, as were bold uses of colour, sculptural silhouettes and rare gemstones with compelling stories. Here are the key trends that defined the 2025 high jewellery season.

by Joshua Hendren

Jewellery Gallery

Flower Power: The Uplifting Energy of Jewels in Full Bloom

Florals have long been a favourite in fine jewellery, and they never lose their charm. This year’s Couture show in Las Vegas proved just how inventive floral jewellery can be, bursting with colour, craftsmanship, and imagination

by Hirshi Sujanti

Jewellery Trends

You’ve Got the Moves: Kinetic Jewellery with Moving Elements

Sometimes, at the Couture Show, you encounter a trend that feels perfectly attuned to the times we’re living in. This year in Las Vegas, that trend was movement. Or, more precisely, moving elements that speak to that very human desire to keep our hands busy, our senses engaged, and our minds soothed.

by Claire Roberts

Jewellery Trends

Verified in Vegas: The Biggest Jewellery Trends of the Couture Show 2025

The Couture Show presents a curated view of the best in craftsmanship, design, fresh ideas and originality, which is why it’s such a vital place to forecast the ‘next big thing’. Here’s what I have gleaned from this year’s State-side events

by Sarah Jordan

Jewellery Collections

Instant Charm: Celebrating New Creations with Karina Choudhrie Jewels

Let's take a closer look at the latest pieces that have emerged from Karina's incredible imagination…

by Katerina Perez

Jewellery Knowledge

Key Facts About Gold: An Ancient Symbol of Power and Luxury

In an age where digital currencies rise and fall, gold remains a universal symbol of stability, beauty, and lasting worth. It is worn on the skin, locked in vaults, and passed down through generations as a living legacy.

by Hirshi Sujanti

Jewellery Styling

Little Legends: The History and Power of Pinky Rings

Pinky rings have long carried cultural weight - from Ancient Mesopotamian seals to Egyptian signets and Japanese kamon heirlooms. Today, the style is experiencing a resurgence, thanks to contemporary designers and a growing list of high-profile wearers, including Meghan Markle, Bruno Mars, Rihanna, Victoria Beckham, Bella Hadid and Emily Ratajkowski

by Joshua Hendren

Jewellery Knowledge

Forever in Bloom: The Timeless Charm of Flowers in Jewellery

Flowers may fade in a vase, but flowers in jewellery—they bloom eternally

by Hirshi Sujanti

Add articles and images to your favourites. Just

Jewellery Collections

Epic Evolution:Miseno Launches the Arco Collection to Celebrate a Fabulous Decade

I am pleased to present to you my highlights of the new Arco High Jewellery collection, which was formally showcased to the jewellery world at Couture from June 4-8, 2025

by Katerina Perez