Bvlgari: Interactive Luxury from the Barocko Period

August 25, 2020

By Katerina Perez

9 min read

Lucia Silvestri, Creative Director of Jewellery at Bvlgari, has combined bright colours, unusual lighting effects and exquisite details that create a sense of joy and positivity in whimsical precious forms, inspired by the Baroque era. Thus, the artistic and architectural Baroque heritage of Rome was combined with the daring spirit of Bvlgari, and the unprecedented Barocko high jewellery collection was born.

Why was this period chosen to be embodied in these precious masterpieces?  With a name that translates as “bizarre”, the new Baroque era was born in the late 16th – early 17th centuries, extending through the entire 18th century. It was characterised by pomp and ceremony, sensuality and changeability, versatility and complexity, as well as luxury that bordered on excess. The Baroque period favoured faceted precious stones instead of enamel and the division of jewellery into daytime and evening jewellery, as well as a complete change of style: previously popular pendants were replaced with secret signet rings, chandelier earrings and tiered bracelets. The extensive, exclusive Barocko collection brings together 50 fantastic jewels, each inspired by a corner of Rome. According to Lucia Silvestri, all the pieces worked out “very feminine, very Baroque, but also very contemporary because of the colour”.

Bvlgari Barocko Wings of Rome high jewellery diamond necklace

Bvlgari Barocko Wings of Rome high jewellery diamond necklace

 Bvlgari Barocko Festa high jewellery necklace, set with rubellite and amethyst beads, and diamonds

Bvlgari Barocko Festa high jewellery necklace, set with rubellite and amethyst beads, and diamonds

 Bvlgari Barocko Serpenti designs

Bvlgari Barocko Serpenti designs

 An array of colourful jewels from the new Bvlgari Barocko high jewellery collection

An array of colourful jewels from the new Bvlgari Barocko high jewellery collection

 Bvlgari Barocko Mosaico high jewellery emerald and diamond necklace

Bvlgari Barocko Mosaico high jewellery emerald and diamond necklace

 High jewellery from the Bvlgari Barocko collection

High jewellery from the Bvlgari Barocko collection

 Bvlgari Barocko Colour Wonder necklace with an oval citrine, peridot, rubellite, amethyst and aquamarine

Bvlgari Barocko Colour Wonder necklace with an oval citrine, peridot, rubellite, amethyst and aquamarine

 Bvlgari Barocko Lady Rubellite high jewellery necklace, set with a 60.79 carat pear shape rubellite, Akoya pearls, amethyst beads, rubellites and diamonds

Bvlgari Barocko Lady Rubellite high jewellery necklace, set with a 60.79 carat pear shape rubellite, Akoya pearls, amethyst beads, rubellites and diamonds

 Bvlgari Barocko Pink Twist high jewellery necklace, set with a 58.00 carat cushion cut rubellite

Bvlgari Barocko Pink Twist high jewellery necklace, set with a 58.00 carat cushion cut rubellite

 Bvlgari Barocko Rocking Tassel high jewellery necklace, set with an octagonal cut tanzanite, rubies, sapphires, diamonds and pink tourmaline beads

Bvlgari Barocko Rocking Tassel high jewellery necklace, set with an octagonal cut tanzanite, rubies, sapphires, diamonds and pink tourmaline beads

 Bvlgari Barocko Cabochon Exuberance high jewellery necklace, set with cabochon tanzanites, tourmalines and aquamarines, emerald beads and diamonds

Bvlgari Barocko Cabochon Exuberance high jewellery necklace, set with cabochon tanzanites, tourmalines and aquamarines, emerald beads and diamonds

 Bvlgari Barocko Ruby Drapery high jewellery ring, set with a 5.05 carat antique cushion cut ruby and diamonds

Bvlgari Barocko Ruby Drapery high jewellery ring, set with a 5.05 carat antique cushion cut ruby and diamonds

 Bvlgari Barocko high jewellery Serpenti jewels

Bvlgari Barocko high jewellery Serpenti jewels

 Bvlgari Barocko high jewellery Serpenti bracelet and sapphire, emerald and diamond earrings

Bvlgari Barocko high jewellery Serpenti bracelet and sapphire, emerald and diamond earrings

There is a way to celebrate Baroque art the Bvlgari way, which is different and very contemporary. Baroque is in our DNA, but we gave it a modern twist, so our jewellery is both current and Baroque at once. – Lucia Silvestri, Creative Director of Jewellery at Bvlgari

Bvlgari Barocko Lady Arabesque high jewellery necklace, featuring baroque flourishes and set with natural Fancy pink sapphires and Paraiba tourmalines

Bvlgari Barocko Lady Arabesque high jewellery necklace, featuring baroque flourishes and set with natural Fancy pink sapphires and Paraiba tourmalines

It is difficult to narrow down the most outstanding piece in the collection because each surpasses the next, so instead I’ve chosen to explore the jewels by looking at the most incredible gems in each line. There are there of them, incidentally: Colore, which explores dramatic depths of colour; Meraviglia, which features curved lines inspired by marble drapery; and Luce, which is distinguished by its unusual lighting effects.

A suite of sapphire and diamond jewels from the new Bvlgari Barocko collection

A suite of sapphire and diamond jewels from the new Bvlgari Barocko collection

 Bold colour is a defining feature of the collection

Bold colour is a defining feature of the collection

 Gems are big and bold

Gems are big and bold

 Jewels are unapologetically glamorous

Jewels are unapologetically glamorous

 Each Barocko jewel is classic Bvlgari

Each Barocko jewel is classic Bvlgari

Colore

The collection’s most Baroque necklace is perhaps Lady Arabesque, which embodies the true aesthetics of the Baroque period, combined with the typical Bvlgari colour palette. Charming shades of pink and purple sapphires, neon flashes of Paraiba, the deep greens of emeralds and the transparency of diamonds contrast with shades of gold. Lucia admits that she had never used such a combination of colours before; initially she wanted to create a completely different palette of multi-coloured sapphires. Experimenting with gemstones for a month, she eventually decided to combine contrasting pink and greenish stones, but immediately ruled out large emeralds. So, she switched her attention to the Paraiba. You have probably already noticed that Lady Arabesque has a complex design, and in fact the creation process took a lot of time.

The Lady Arabesque necklace features unexpected shapes and bold combinations of colours

The Lady Arabesque necklace features unexpected shapes and bold combinations of colours

 Diamond-set arabesques twist and flow between the stones

Diamond-set arabesques twist and flow between the stones

 It took almost 1,000 hours to combine all the elements of the Lady Arabesque necklace into a harmonious whole

It took almost 1,000 hours to combine all the elements of the Lady Arabesque necklace into a harmonious whole

 Bvlgari’s Creative Director, Lucia Silvestri, has, for the first time, combined Fancy pink sapphires and neon Paraiba tourmalines in a single jewel

Bvlgari’s Creative Director, Lucia Silvestri, has, for the first time, combined Fancy pink sapphires and neon Paraiba tourmalines in a single jewel

 The necklace was inspired by the baroque architecture of Rome

The necklace was inspired by the baroque architecture of Rome

The challenge of this necklace was to work around the gems and also around the curves, which are typical for Baroque to show the movement of the gold and its volume. We purposefully didn’t want to leave gold elements flat, allowing for different tones of pink gold to come out with the light. – Lucia Silvestri, Creative Director of Jewellery at Bvlgari

Another jewel that challenged Bvlgari’s craftsmen is the Rosso Caravaggio necklace, dedicated, as the name suggests, to the great Italian artist. It took 1,500 hours to make and boasts not only a central 10 carat cushion cut Mozambican ruby, but also a convertible design with two detachable strands.

A gouache painting of Bulgari's Rosso Caravaggio ruby and diamond necklace from the Barocko collection

A gouache painting of Bulgari's Rosso Caravaggio ruby and diamond necklace from the Barocko collection

Meraviglia

The Green Dream necklace is set with five outstanding Colombian emeralds of a very vivid colour, which Lucia Silvestri spent more than a year searching for. Their crisp cut creates a charming contrast alongside the delicate and graceful decorations of diamonds and emeralds. A bracelet and earrings complete the set with a captivating effect of light and reflections.

A gouache painting of the Green Dream high jewellery necklace, inspired by the Italian painter Caravaggio

A gouache painting of the Green Dream high jewellery necklace, inspired by the Italian painter Caravaggio

 The design plays with the different geometries and colours of the precious gems

The design plays with the different geometries and colours of the precious gems

 The necklace is set with five extraordinary Colombian emeralds totalling  128.00 carats

The necklace is set with five extraordinary Colombian emeralds totalling 128.00 carats

 Each emerald pulses with life

Each emerald pulses with life

 The necklace took Bvlgari's master artisans more than 900 hours to complete

The necklace took Bvlgari's master artisans more than 900 hours to complete

Take a look at this 32 carat Colombian emerald – the shape reminds me of the cupolas in Rome and the design came out looking like the very modern frame of the columns in this beautiful city, says Lucia, drawing our attention to another extraordinary piece.

Bvlgari Barocko Cupola high jewellery necklace starring a 32.88 carat sugarloaf cabochon emerald

Bvlgari Barocko Cupola high jewellery necklace starring a 32.88 carat sugarloaf cabochon emerald

I do not want to disregard the truly poetic and delicate Sapphire Lace necklace. It combines platinum, diamonds and Ceylon blue sapphires to create a light, feminine texture inspired by exquisite Baroque lace fabrics.

Bvlgari Barocko Sapphire Lace high jewellery necklace

Bvlgari Barocko Sapphire Lace high jewellery necklace

Luce

The Peacock necklace showcases a daring and extravagant mix of colours and gems, from tanzanites and aquamarines to chrysoprase and emeralds. A rare bright yellow kite-shaped diamond accentuates the luxurious and sophisticated Raggio di Luce ring, displaying a graphic combination of yellow and white diamonds.

Bvlgari Barocko Peacock high jewellery necklace and earrings. The gemstones mimic  the peacock’s shimmering blue and green plumage

Bvlgari Barocko Peacock high jewellery necklace and earrings. The gemstones mimic the peacock’s shimmering blue and green plumage

 The Peacock necklace was one of the most technically complex jewels the Barocko collection

The Peacock necklace was one of the most technically complex jewels the Barocko collection

 It took close to 1,500 hours to complete

It took close to 1,500 hours to complete

 Tanzanites, aquamarines, emeralds, amethysts and turquoise are among the stones adorning this unique jewel

Tanzanites, aquamarines, emeralds, amethysts and turquoise are among the stones adorning this unique jewel

In addition, for the first time Bvlgari has provided its clients with the opportunity not only to interactively view the collection, but also to purchase these luxury jewels using the Barocko App. Each piece of jewellery is displayed with detailed information and a 360-degree image, as well as a “try on” function: using your phone camera, you can actually “wear” the jewels and even take a self-portrait.

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