GemGeneve: Russian designers conquer Switzerland

April 30, 2019

By Katerina Perez

4 min read

Generally speaking, very little is known about Russia’s high jewellery industry, since most designers exclusively create private orders. Only a very small number of these designers gain international recognition; nevertheless, Russia is a country rich with not only precious resources, but also with talent. A select few Russian jewellers were invited to participate in GemGeneve 2019.

From 9th-12th May the second edition of the GemGeneve exhibition in Geneva will host elite gem and antique dealers, as well as independent designers. Presenting as either exhibitors, emerging talent or within the specially selected designer vivarium; several dozen jewellers will display their collections and unique works to the buyers, press and attendees. Visitors of GemGeneve will have a rare opportunity to personally become acquainted with art jewels and their creators. In the meantime, I invite you to meet a selection of Russian designers whose work will be showcased…

Ninotchka 'Morning Glory' cuff bracelet with petrified wood, diamonds, sapphires, demantoid garnets, gold, silver and bronze presented at Gem Geneve in 2018. Photo by Simon Martner

Ninotchka 'Morning Glory' cuff bracelet with petrified wood, diamonds, sapphires, demantoid garnets, gold, silver and bronze presented at Gem Geneve in 2018. Photo by Simon Martner

href=”http://www.alexanderlaut.com/” rel=”noopener noreferrer” target=”_blank”>Alexander Laut

A native of Moscow, Alexander Laut left Russia in the nineties to settle in America. This is where he met Harry Winston’s son Ronald, who inspired the young Laut to create his own jewellery brand. Alexander always had a fascination with precious jewellery and stones, so creating his own work was only a matter of time. In 2003, he started his own business, creating unique rings, earrings, necklaces and bracelets – each only made in a single edition, and all composed of only exceptional precious stones. Laut’s work is often found in auction houses, and has become part of private collections all over the world.

Alexander Laut and a selection of his gemstone-lead jewellery

Alexander Laut and a selection of his gemstone-lead jewellery

Milio

The name ‘Milio’ is an amalgamation of the names of the mother and daughter founders of the brand: LyudmIla and Olga Mironovs. This creative duo from Moscow works to produce jewellery with character, using a design philosophy which always cites the gem as the starting point. Lyudmila and Olga believe that one’s outfit should be selected to match jewellery, and not vice versa, while jewellery that you wear should be statement and attract others’ attention. That is why members of the Mironov family possess such a bold approach to the design of jewellery, using original making techniques and materials, as well as a host of bright gemstones for decorating their often rather complex creations.

Milio earrings with amethysts, emeralds, rubies and diamonds

Milio earrings with amethysts, emeralds, rubies and diamonds

 Milio Bow brooch in gold with diamonds

Milio Bow brooch in gold with diamonds

 Milio cocktail ring

Milio cocktail ring

 Milio cocktail ring

Milio cocktail ring

href=”http://www.ninotchkagoods.com/” rel=”noopener noreferrer” target=”_blank”>Ninotchka

The founders of the Moscow jewellery company Ninotchka – Yevgeny Glagolev and Timur Ibragimov – are historic jewellery enthusiasts, and have weaved some of the elements of antique jewellery into much more modern creations. Paying tribute to the beautiful minerals mined in Russia, these gifted designers embellish Ninotchka jewellery with Siberian amethysts and Ural demantoids, as well as diamonds and other precious stones. The voluminous shape of their creations is their signature, although this creative duet also uses more alternative jewellery materials – including wood – in some of their work.

Ninotchka Russia nephrite and amethyst ring

Ninotchka Russia nephrite and amethyst ring

href=”http://www.tenzo-jewellery.com/m/” rel=”noopener noreferrer” target=”_blank”>Alexander Tenzo

The love of coloured gems – especially spinel – permeates all of the precious pieces of the Russian jeweller and gem hunter Alexander Tenzo. Currently, he is boldly experimenting with a colour palette of tourmalines, spinels, chrysoberyls, sapphires and more in order to create his jewellery sets, cocktail rings, various bracelets, earrings and brooches. He possesses a plethora of skills: an understanding of subtle colour; a mastery of stone setting; complex stone carving that allows him to create either cameos or intaglios; and an attention to the smallest detail. These skills are apparent in his every creation – be it a magnificent necklace for special occasions or a delicate brooch. It should be noted that one must consider these works carefully and from all sides – Tenzo’s work contains hidden ‘secrets’ in the form of interesting design accents that are not always apparent at first glance!

Alexander Tenzo and a selection of his jewellery

Alexander Tenzo and a selection of his jewellery

If you are visiting GemGeneve, be sure to take the time to browse the work of these jewellers, all of whom – except for Alexander Laut – will present their works at Designers Vivarium: a curation of independent designers selected by the jewellery historian Vivienne Becker.

YOKO London: Luxury Pearl Jewellery Brand Presented Over 200 New Pieces at Baselworld

continue reading

Semi-Precious vs Precious Gemstones: Why the Old Labels No Longer Work

I can’t count the number of times I’ve asked myself: what really sets so-called precious and semi-precious stonesapart? Is it their rarity? Colour? Durability? Value? Or is it simply tradition—an outdated hierarchy we’ve inherited without question

by Katerina Perez

Larger than Life: New Mineral Masterpieces and Global Adventures with Margot McKinney 

Let’s take a closer look at the pieces and places that have helped to shape the Margot McKinney brand over the last 12 months, including the rather sensational Marina, Aurora and Bloem necklaces

by Katerina Perez

Male Adornment: The Evolution of Men’s Jewellery from the 1400s Until Today

Men's jewellery is often overlooked, yet its history is both rich and cyclical. Over the past six centuries, the popularity of male adornments has fluctuated, reflecting shifts in fashion, status, and cultural values. Here, Amanda Triossi examines the reasons behind male jewellery, along with its periods of abundance and decline.

by Amanda Triossi

Perfect Proposal: The Top 10 Engagement Ring Mistakes to Avoid 

The moment you start thinking about proposing, everything shifts. Ordinary things become significant: dinner out, a walk in the park, a glance at their jewellery box. And then comes "the ring": a symbol of love, yes, but also a silent spokesperson for everything you feel and hope for. No pressure, right?

by Claire Roberts

Couture Show 2025: The Top 10 Debutants Heading to Las Vegas 

The much anticipated Couture Show will return to Wynn Las Vegas from June 4-8, 2025, shining a spotlight on established design talent, new creatives, and international brands that are vying for attention on the global stage. Just like in previous years, I am focusing my attention on the debutants

by Katerina Perez

Designing the Future: Revealing the Winners of the Katerina Perez x Osmium Institute Design Contest

What a ride it has been, witnessing such pure creative energy and original thinking, especially with a material as rare and futuristic as osmium

by Katerina Perez

New Icons: The Latest Collections by Italian Micromosaic Master SICIS 

I was presented with two striking new collections – Icon and Colibrì – that offer different interpretations of the SICIS aesthetic. Below, I want to give you a closer look at these capsule suites and tell you more about the inspirations behind them

by Katerina Perez

Fabulous Fabrications: TAOS Presents a Trio of Watches Inspired by Couture Fashion

Occasionally, beautiful timepieces demonstrating exceptional Métiers d’Art will land on our virtual desks and result in a round-robin series of emails. In the hours after we received insights into the emerging Swiss brand TAOS, almost the entire team had seen the fabric-inspired dials of its latest creations, and we all agreed that an article was […]

by Sarah Jordan

A Century of Sparkle: Celebrating 100 Years of Art Deco at GemGenève

From May 8-11, 2025, visitors to GemGenève can immerse themselves in a showcase of antique and modern jewellery while also experiencing the innovative spirit of the 1920s and 1930s through a photographic lens. Here, I'd like to tell you more about this creative collaboration and introduce you to the brands taking part…

by Katerina Perez

Tailored Perfection: The Best Jewellery Looks of the Met Gala 2025

Not since 2003 has a Met Gala theme focused exclusively on menswear, so we had high hopes for this year’s attendees demonstrating the best of tailored suiting adorned with high jewels. Let’s take a closer look at some of the best ensembles of the evening…

by Sarah Jordan

Legacy of Love: The Dreamlike Jewels of Emirati Designer Mariyeh Ghelichkhani

Jewellery is a transmitter of memories and emotions through time, which is something that Dubai-based designer Mariyeh Ghelichkhani knows all too well. During our meeting in Dubai, we spoke about the importance of family, the sweetness of finding joy through creativity, and the ability to translate dreamy visions and deep feelings into wearable pieces…

by Katerina Perez

Celebrating Colour: 20 Uplifting Jewellery Creations by Lisa Nik

Whether you're craving a juicy mandarin garnet or an eye-catching bi-colour tourmaline, here are 20 joyful pieces that exemplify the Lisa Nik approach, as well as the inspiration behind them…

by Sarah Jordan

Latest Stories

Add articles and images to your favourites. Just

Reinventing Royalty:The European-Inspired Luxury Behind Isabel Gemology

I started 2025 with a series of articles titled ‘Jeweller of the Month’ to highlight the true talent among niche designers in the jewellery industry. For May, it is Isabel Delgado, the founder of Isabel Gemology, who I would like to shine the spotlight on.

by Katerina Perez

Jewels Katerina Perez Loves

Continue Reading

Writing Adventures:Co-Authoring the Book

Paraiba: The Legacy of a Color

by Katerina Perez

Jewellery Insights straight to your inbox

Style Guide

By using this website, you agree to the storing of cookies on your device to enhance site navigation, analyze site usage, and assist in our marketing efforts. View our Privacy Policy for more information.